#1

ok, I'm a little confused and depressed. I just did an engine swap in my camaro (from an 85 305 to an 88 350 [swapped the complete motor w/out carb]) and put some minor upgrades on as well..which are....

CraneCam Energizer 272 H10

Edelbrock Intake Manifold - Performer 2101

I took her to the track last night and could only run 16.3 (with a RT of 0.170...
I dont know..that just dont sound right to me.. thats just about what the ol 305 ran......

Saturday I'm putting on an Accel Blueprint Distributor and new carb (Edelbrock Performer Series 600cfm)

How much could it take my time down?

#2

What rear end is in my 85? its the 85 SC 305. How much would a 3.43 cut off my time and what price am i looking at?



Thanks for reading my post!

 

What carb is on it now? I would think it should have been faster than that. Check your timing, and air fuel mixture. Dump the performer intake. Everyone hear seems to like the performer RPM or Airgap RPM. I chose the Weiand Stealth. (similar to performer RPM)

My 87 TransAm had an LG-4 305 and had 2:73 gears in it. 3:42 or 3:73 would really kick it in the pants. I went to a 3:73. With the stock 305 and 2:73 open rear I couldn't get the tires broke loose at all. Once the posi was installed with the 3:73's it was a whole nuther world, I could launch from a stop and burn the tires through first and over halfway into second. Big difference.

 

You sure it was a 350? Sounds like a silly question but you never know. Check the block casting number at www.mortec.com

 

rt has nothing to do with et. whats the 60' time?

 

what heads?

 

I bought it from Advanced Auto Parts, the crate had paperwork on it, and it said 350. when it stops raining im checking tho.


Whatever heads came on a 1988 z28

I know it has nothing to do with rt..just put that in there so no1 though my rt was like 1.254 or some crap lol I will have to find my slips for the 60 time

 

How much you want to bet you got a non-roller block, a pair of swirl-port truck heads, and a 929 cam? Those being the cheapest, most common, and most easily obtainable parts that will "fit" into a 88 Z28.

That would explain the lack of power and the slow times.

I would bet money you don't have 083 heads, a roller block, and the correct L98 roller cam.... let alone a good roller cam.

Before you buy ANYTHING, it would be a great idea to observe and record what you actually already have; if for no other reason than to verify that what you think you're going to put in it, will work.

"The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is usually the right one."
— Occam, ancient Greek philosopher, from the days of the 2-piece rear main seal

 

is the cam i got in there better than the one it "comes with"

http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?s...52&lvl=2&prt=5

 

That would depend on what it "comes with".

But, probably, yes; even though it's probably not the "best" cam you could get with that approximate intake duration and lift.... depending on what heads you have and what pistons they built it out of (probably dished; again, not a driect replacement for 88 Z28 350).

 

Anyone?

 

Again, like all of this, how much change it will make, depends on what's there now.

If you're running a dist that's supposed to be computer-controlled, but without computer control, then you are getting no timing advance whatsoever under any conditions; as opposed to the 35° or so that you should have above 3000 RPM. The correct distributor for the rest of your setup, which will have centrifugal and vacuum advance, will remedy that. That would make a HUGE difference to how the car runs. I can't tell you how much, but you won't fail to notice it, that's for sure.

The carb will probably slow you down.

If you're running the computer carb and dist, with the computer properly all hooked up and working correctly, you will gain very little from swapping the dist.

 

I was wrong on what kind of dist. it is...
its actualy an Accel Biller Proof Electronic Breakerless Dist. {PN: 59107}

Combined with the Edelbrock Performer Series 600cfm.

Gain or no? I'm trying to learn here..sorry for my stupidity

My father is going to install them, and he says he has a way around the computer problem

 

Very little gain, if any, compared to the computer-controlled system, if the computer system is working correctly.

Understand that the way to make a car faster (car, not engine) is to find the one thing that's most limiting to its performance, and upgrade it appropriately. It is NOT to un-bolt and re-bolt big shiny things on top of the motor that are easy to get to; it is NOT to buy the same things your friends have, even if their cars are faster than yours; it is NOT to hack all the computer and emissions stuff off of it. It is to find the weakest link. If you leave the weakest link in place, you can dink around with everything else from now to doomsday, and the car will never get any faster.

I'm guessing your car was a LG4 to start out its life. The single weakest thing about one of those is the exhaust. If you don't fix the exhaust, you could put Jeff Gordon's motor for this weekend in your car, and it probably still won't crack 200 HP. I'd suggest that you apply that logic to your upgrade choices; doing what you're doing is only going to make the car faster by being a little lighter, namely in the driver's wallet.

To give you some idea, I have a 305 in my car right now, with a few mods of course (no nitrous or blower); it puts 237 HP to the rear wheels. I'm still running the stock air cleaner, the stock computer-controlled carb, the stock distributor, all emissions control devices are still there and operating (the AIR, EGR, gas tank canister, etc. etc. etc.); that's about 290 HP at the crank. If you're running a 16.3, you've got around 120 HP at the wheels, or about 150 at the crank. You've got a LONG way to go before the stock carb and distributor become your weak link.

 

thank you for helping me so far. I really appreciate it. If this were your car what would you upgrade next (keeping the mods I already have on it)

I take it probably exhaust first?

If you have time..throw out some things I need to upgrade

 

What exhaust does it have?

What gears are in the car?

Then, what is the motor actually built out of? Casting numbers, etc.; the description you've given so far is too vague to be of any use. Which is not to blame you, it may be exactly what you've been told about it, it's just entirely too lacking in detail.

 

First thing you need to do is check your block casting number heres a nice link to show you the various lacations http://www.mortec.com/location.htm.Second you need to check your head casting number and heres a link for that http://www.mortec.com/locatpg2 .Now heres are the things you shoulda done before installing that motor...
1)Buy a Nice set of headers New Cat for emmsions controled states and of course a nice 3 inch catback (rember you get what you pay for in the header world!)
2) You gota BREATH so get a nice Open Element with a K&n filter (or anyother highflow) or use the stock snorkle with a Highflow Fliter
3)Buy a nice posi and reargear set with my l03 i took 3.73's and got a rebuilt gm posi with gears for 400 bucks with all the stuf to install it
4) Build that tranny Get a nice shiftkit mostllikely one fromn a reputable brand then buy a nice street stall converter like anywhere from a 2500-3000 will be good for you
5) Suspension parts and tires. that power isnt **** if its not getin to the ground
Now rember what RB said you can have Jeff gordons 800hp motor with a stock auto,****y 2.73's and a stock exaust and intake and your gona be way below 800hp.But you skiped that stage and now your playin catchup but its not too late and its not that expensive! Good luck and have fun

 

Before upgrading, gotta find what is and isn't working...

Since you have a "conversion" car, I'd verify you actually have ignition advance, RB mentioned it above, should see 34-36*s BTDC at 3K or so.

Next, make sure the card you're running that the secondairies are actaully opening.

Before it all, didi you set base timing? What at?

make sure all the plug wires on on correctly, in the corect spot?

Just a start, but keep in mind, if you have a 2.73/2.77 rear geared car, AND you stuck in some abismal "replacement 350" with Target Master credentials, about 16.0-16.5 is what I would expect.

 

Thank you for the feed back, I'm gonna be checking all this s*it out tomorrow, I'm just very upset at my pos car. Gotta hate thinkin you have an "ok" car and it turns out to be a turd

 

Don't think that.... you just have to take whatever you have, research it and understand it, and figure out how to make it better. Use your money wisely.

 

you'd probably do better with the stuff from your 305, put on your 350 heads and all. Just leave the bottom end and block alone.... probably (and should) get better times, and you'll have a better knowledge of what's on your car to start with.

 

I am now curious, did you drop this 350 in and hook up all the computer stuff? Carb, dist., etc.?

If you did, then like mentioned above, the exhaust manifolds (if stock 305 stuff) and exhaust system are very restrictive, get a set of headers and a better exhaust system, and try changing the secondary metering rods and hanger on the carb (if it is the CC Quadrajet) to "CV" or "CK" rods with a "B" hanger (Search carb tech board).

 

yeah, we did.. but we got the new carb and dist hooked up today,..no more comp controled stuff..it sounds a sh*t load better, you can hear the cam now..gonna test it tomorrow i hope