erratic timing mark
erratic timing mark
What would case the timing mark to jump around 2 degrees or so every few seconds.
I just did the valve seals on the car, the cheapo o rings werent cutting it so i swapped to positive ones. The only things i can think of is the valve adjustment i counted the turns when undoing them exactly 14 on every valve and i was careful to tighten them 14 turns. Or the plug wires i dont have any wire looms on the car, temp zap straps. Plugs are brand new.
It wasnt doing this before i took it apart even with badly fouled plugs. Cars running great now.
I plan on setting the valves while its running and tuning it more later.
I just did the valve seals on the car, the cheapo o rings werent cutting it so i swapped to positive ones. The only things i can think of is the valve adjustment i counted the turns when undoing them exactly 14 on every valve and i was careful to tighten them 14 turns. Or the plug wires i dont have any wire looms on the car, temp zap straps. Plugs are brand new.
It wasnt doing this before i took it apart even with badly fouled plugs. Cars running great now.
I plan on setting the valves while its running and tuning it more later.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 0
From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
It could be caused by a number of things. a common one is to have bleed through from another spark plug wire effecting the timing light. I had the same issue but my timing would jump + - 4*, ended up being a distributor having multiple problems.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
Likes: 1
From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Is this a CC distributor? If so, thats not unusual. Thats the computer doing its thing
Sorry no its a vacuum style, no computer.
Also i should add when i bring up the rpms to check total timing it doesnt do it. So right now im leaning towards a low rpm miss on #1 since i did notice occasionally the light wouldnt fire. Im thinking maybe the timings fine and its just the light. The idle is too low now, its around 550, and occasionally moves around a little. I guess thats normal for the cam i have a 214/224. When i get some free time im going to move the idle up and reset the mixture.
Also i should add when i bring up the rpms to check total timing it doesnt do it. So right now im leaning towards a low rpm miss on #1 since i did notice occasionally the light wouldnt fire. Im thinking maybe the timings fine and its just the light. The idle is too low now, its around 550, and occasionally moves around a little. I guess thats normal for the cam i have a 214/224. When i get some free time im going to move the idle up and reset the mixture.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
Likes: 1
From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
When you clip the light onto the #1 wire, try holding that wire as far away from the others as you can, and make sure that its not touching any of the other wires anywere. It could be doing just what SSC suggested.
How steady is the idle? How light are the springs in the distributor (for mech. advance)?
How steady is the idle? How light are the springs in the distributor (for mech. advance)?
Funny story on the dizzy, one spring is very light and other is stiff 2 coils versus 5-6 coils if i remember right..i need to change that. Thank you previous owner.
The idle has a 50-75rpm fluxuation to it. If i bring it up to 900-1000 its very solid. Wednesday night im going to reset the idle to 950 and retune for emissions test. I only have 3 weeks.
The idle has a 50-75rpm fluxuation to it. If i bring it up to 900-1000 its very solid. Wednesday night im going to reset the idle to 950 and retune for emissions test. I only have 3 weeks.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Re: erratic timing mark
Originally posted by nsimmons
I just did the valve seals on the car, the cheapo o rings werent cutting it so i swapped to positive ones. The only things i can think of is the valve adjustment i counted the turns when undoing them exactly 14 on every valve and i was careful to tighten them 14 turns.
...
I plan on setting the valves while its running and tuning it more later.
I just did the valve seals on the car, the cheapo o rings werent cutting it so i swapped to positive ones. The only things i can think of is the valve adjustment i counted the turns when undoing them exactly 14 on every valve and i was careful to tighten them 14 turns.
...
I plan on setting the valves while its running and tuning it more later.
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just a quick update. I had a few minutes to play with it today.
I set the idle to 950, its pretty stable, 950-970. Timing mark is stable now, 36* total. Vacuum is a stable 16.5. Tommorow im going to reset the idle mixture, and try out the o2 sensor.
I set the idle to 950, its pretty stable, 950-970. Timing mark is stable now, 36* total. Vacuum is a stable 16.5. Tommorow im going to reset the idle mixture, and try out the o2 sensor.
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