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I helped put pro mags on my friends 195s.. The stud is on the short side and not the highest quality either. It ran for a few months with the stock studs before snapping one. Then we switched it to the longer vs in ARP and have had no problems since.

 

No problems yet with mine, AFR 195 and Pro Mag Rollers. Been running fine since November last year.

 

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I also had no issues with my Pro Mags on the 210's. Only time I've heard of any hittment isue in person, my brother in law was running Dart Pro 1's and the retainer was hitting the under side of the rocker, but come to find out it was a pushrod length issue.

As far as nosie, what type of cam are you running? If it's any of the solid type weather flat tappet or roller, there will be noise. My other engine was running aluminum roller rockers and a hyd flat tappet, it ran about as quite as a engine with stamped rockers.

 

Oh, only advise I can truely attest too...dont buy the "long" poly locks when you opt to install a stud girdle. Guy I ordered the girdle from ordered the long nuts thinking that's what it needed with the girdle to work. The "long" studs are for BBC applications

 

They didn't seem to be on the short side. As far as noise, I'm running a solid lifter cam so there's more noise than normal but it's not bad at all. Can't hear them at all in the car but then, my car is pretty loud Under the hood you can really hear them.

 

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Actually if you look at cartmans pic real close you can see the studs are slightly too short. Look at how far down the locking allen head is in the poly lock. If the studs the right length the allen head will be nearly flush with the top of the lock. We ran the stock afr studs for several months with no problems. Then one broke. When we took a closer look, and the polylocks were only grabbing about 4 threads. We used aftermarket tall centerbolt valve covers and had no problem with them.

 

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i have 190's with pm's. the length was fine but they broke after several months. Get the ARP's for durability, its criminal what afr charges for heads with chinese rocker studs.

 

Hummm... guess I'll get some ARP ones that are longer also. Here's another shot.

 

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Ah didn't see that question... Nope, running the perimeter style tall valve covers.

 

Just a reminder for those reading this, don't forget to put thread sealant on the rocker stud threads. Many aftermarket heads have the stud holes drilled and tapped through the top of the intake port.

PST is a good sealant for this. No sealant, lots of oil in the intake.

Nice pics helps on a Friday morning to get the blood moving. . .

RBob.

 

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i just bought the regular studs for a sbc 3/8" not the superhigh quality but the standard ones. i'm sorry i can't remember right now.

 

Are you running the regular springs or the upgraded ones? Or are they even AFR springs at all?

 

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I'm not up and running yet, I am still getting this engine together. Basically I have everything, except Pushrods (I'm trying to figure out the correct length right now)

I will let you know when I get it running, If you have lots of noise... are you sure you set up your lash/preload correctly and all the rocker nuts stayed tight?



Still have to put in my rocker arm studs, torque those down, and figure out my pushrod length. Otherwise, there she is... sure looks beautiful, I now believe in love at first sight

 

I had a thread on another board on full rollers and stock covers. I was told that the full rollers with Poly locks will work but...You have to "mash" the baffles down and cut the Poly locks or use a thick gasket to fit.

PS, that's on standard SBC covers, not the CB's. Comp Cams makes two version of their roller tip rockers for regular and CB's, but they only make the one version of the full rollers, so I assume they would work on both.

 

I'm wondering if anyone as resolved the stud length issue with using the Comp Pro Mags and AFR heads?
I just got my 195's and a set of the Comp pro Mags (for a 7/16th stud). After reading people's problems with afr's studs breaking I am getting some ARP's, also I stepped up from 3/8 to 7/16. Anyway after browsing ARP's listings in their catalog for studs (there are a lot of options by the way) I don't really have a good idea of which ones to use. Anyone have a part number they used or the length?

thanks

 

I've gotten 2 years of street driving and LOTS of passes on the drag strip with my AFR "stock" 7/16" rocker studs with no problems. Nothing in the valvetrain has been touched since assembly other than checking valve lash, not a peep out of anything.

Just be sure to use thread sealer on the rocker studs before installing and torqueing.

 

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haha, yea sorry about reviving this one, but it was pretty much right on track with my question.

Thanks for the replys. I actually called Comp this afternoon just to see what stud length they recommend. The guy I talked to says he usually recommends a stud length of 1.900" vs. whatever is standard (1.750-1.770). The reason is that it gives the poly-locks more thread engagement, which made sense to me. So I guess I'm going to try the 1.900 from ARP. The ones from Comp are the 4512's if anyone is wondering (those are a 7/16 stud).

However, IHI seems to be doing fine with the 7/16" version of the AFR stud. So who knows for sure, I'm just relaying what I heard.

GTA, I don't want to hear about snow just yet! I'm looking forward to seeing what these heads can do, but it probably won't be for a while.

thanks again guys.