I have a Tpi enigne that is begining to look a little grimmy. Can I just cover the distributer and spray it down with degreaser? I dont really want to go at it with a tooth brush
Thanks.

 

I usually buy Engine Bright, spray it down, let soak for a little while and hose off.

------------------
'86 IROC
T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK TES HEADERS
FLOWMASTER
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
2:73 GEARS
Rebuilt 700R4, with manual valve body
Soon to be installed B&M Megashifter
and Exhaust Cut-Out

 

Simple green, let it soak a while and rinse it off.


------------------
82 camaro--original steering wheel, brake/gas pedals, seats--everything else modified
82camaro

 

If the block is really grimy, warm the engine up and spray oven cleaner on it...

Don't get the oven cleaner on anything aluminum unless you want to paint it afterwards (It will discolor it black) use the simple green on the intake.

Nothing beats oven cleaner or castrol superclean on tough caked on grime.

 

shesh! im glad i knew not to get engine bright on aluminum! i read the instructions on the can, and as far as i can remember it just said to cover all electronics, like the distributor. is there anything else(like oven cleaner) that isnt hard on the rubber hoses and aluminum? My engine would look really nice if it were all shiny, and it needs to be since im gonna sell it soon.(hint hint) anyone want a nice 74?

------------------

• 83 Z28--ttops, 200k miles--very ragged out. sold, thank goodness
• 74 Z28--slightly modded 383, TH400 tranny, not too quick but fun to drive

 

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND an engine cleaner and detailer made by CD-2. It comes with two bottles, a cleaner, and a detailer. This stuff is unbelievable! If you try it, you won't use anything else! I can't say enough positive things about it. And it is cheap, I got both bottles for $6.99 at a local parts store. The bottles are grey and black just so you don't miss it! Use it and post the results!

------------------
Founder of the Greater Cincinnati F-Body Association
Greater Cincinnati F-Body Association
1988 Yellow Trans Am GTA
Click here for photos

 

I use hot water:



------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Fear is how I fall, Confusing what is real..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

Me too.....and soap.



The CD-2 works well. Whatever you do don't use the Castrol Superclean. It will cloud the aluminum clearcoat and basically ruin your part.

 

What do i need to cover/protect? Thanks for all the great advice.

 

Hey, MIKE!

How've you been? Looks like Mr. Polishing Rouge has been a busy guy.

Ehelms,

Avoid wetting the injectors and electronics (like the MAF, relays, and ESC module) any more than is necessary to loosen the grime and rinse it off. The distributor and ignition parts are supposed to be sealed agains water infiltration, and you'll find out how well once you start cleaning.

A mild soap (laundry detergents and dishwashing detergents are not really that mild, but do work well for greasy deposits as long as you rinse well) and 4" paint brush work well to get to the recesses and clena the thicker sludge. When everything is loosened and in the soap suspension, rinse thoroughly.

Really stubborn varnish and baked oil can be loosened with a spray-type carb cleaner or light solvent, then wash with soap and water as above. Don't forget to treat the rubber parts to a silicone-based protectant after everthing is dry.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Fear is how I fall, Confusing what is real..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

Vader, Mike:

Showoffs.

------------------
89 iroc-z 305 tbi
k&n filtercharger, open element air filter. nuffin' else

 

As JoelOl75 posted:

I believe I have something that would. While I haven't used over cleaner, I have used the following: a hot (200°F) 3000 psi at 5gmp pressure washer. Sometimes (incorrectly) called a "steam cleaner" (steam cleaners are much less pressure (<800psi) and hotter (typically >250°F). The hotter water (steam) will clean better, but the lower pressure and volume will clean less effectively especially for removing solids (like grease, mud, etc.).

Even lowering the pressure down to ~2000PSI will achieve the same results for all but the most stubborn spots (e.g. if the grease is more like baked-on carbon at which point I'll scrape/wire brush it). Applying a degreaser will make removal even easier or better, although just using the hot high pressure is very effective.

If I'm not careful, it can remove paint (which is why I lowered the pressure) or get into areas I don't want water (ball joints, distributor, etc.). Used in the right hands, it's very effective. I've been able to clean grease-laden parts/engines to like-new looking condition. Although I'd bet my bottom dollar that the two excellent looking engine compartments posted above were achieved by more than just squirting something on it.

The water used by commercial car wash pressure washers is more "warm" than "hot" (probably ~120° - mostly for liability reasons) nor use as much volume (typically <2.5gpm) and pressure typically <2000psi (don't want customers who don't know how to use it to "accidently" remove paint or cut flesh). But they are better than using just a garden hose.

Where do I get one? For a "one time" use, you can purchase the service ("pressure washer", "power washer" in the yellow pages) or spend $3000-10,000 and own a new unit.

 

after i degrease my engine i let it dry then spay it down with armor all tire shine it workes like a charm and shines its *** off

------------------
89 camaro
carburated 305
bored .030 over
flat top pistons
bigger valves
heads and block shaved
spoiler
tinted windowshuge white chevy symbol on back
92 stock rims
92 ground effects

 

OK. Here goes. Oven cleaner and castrol superclean contain LYE (sodium hydroxide). It eats etches aluminum and turns it dark in color... In low ratio mixes with water it will not eat paint or clearcoats (If they are quality urthane anyway)

It will clean better than any soap or 'safe' product. I'm just saying if the motor is filthy beyond seeing anything that resembles a block under there, this stuff will chew the grease off, without using a pressure washer.

It also works great on aluminum if you plan on scotchbrite'ing it, spray painting or powdercoating it afterwards because it will discolor.

 

Hello Vader,

I am actually an imposter now. I am MikeInNM but I didn't want to change my 3rd Gen ID. It's a bit after the fact but I finally got some pro buffing equipment along with some nice blasting and powder coating stuff, so I've got a neat shop set up here in NM.

Everyone else.... the secret is in the RED Trans Am. It's a little known scientific fact that ultraviolet rays are diffused and modified through a red hood to bake off grime and grease.... kinda' like a self cleaning oven.

Paint your cars red.

 

Here's another "tip", for those of you such as myself, that don't like using high pressure cleaning... I use one of those yard type pump sprayers with degreaser and hot water solution. It's low pressure, and with the hand-held wand, it's easy to get in tight spots. After I've sprayed it down, the dirty spots can be cleaned with a brush and then then use clean hot water again in the sprayer to rinse it all off. Then I usually follow thru with the air nozzle from my compressor to blow it all off and dry it...

KAM

 

How about the Steam Buggy steam cleaner!!!! only 3 easy payments of $49.99 (plus S&H of course)...
1-800-764-9977