HI guys I havent been on here in a bit, I still didnt get my car fixed. It was flashing all these codes anyways I narrowed it down to MAF sensor and right before I was about to replace it my car would just redline as if I was flooring the gas, as soon as I turn it on it redlines and that is it. ITs impossible to drive since its always at redline from the moment I start till when I try to drive it. Maybe it cant get out of the open loop I dont know. Anyways bought another sensor it was used but was suppossed to work replaced my old one and no difference at all every time I start it it redlines. I flashed the codes by taking the power off for a bit and connecting it again, did I miss something guys when I changed the sensor or is somethin else wrong with my car. I want to take missle and blow it up, I have tried to fix this thing for a month already. Anyways guys I am taking it to a tech on monday but I want to know what the problem could be so they dont start bull****ing me.

Camaro RS 87
V6 2.8
5 speed
stock

PLEASE ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREAT

 

If the thorttle blade remains closed, how is the engine even getting enough air to redline (5200 RPM I beleive). The IAC valve isn't able to flow that much air I'm sure, but you may want to replace it just in case. I'm sure someone else can help you better.

 

I think you may be confused as to What Redline is

If the Moment You turn your Car On it Revs up till it didnt have the power to turn over the Non Loaded engine anymore ( 13-14,000 RPm ? ), It would quickly scatter itself across your driveway.




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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver 15.26 @ 87.0
Reader's ride -> My Ride

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

 

Bort, why are you always trying to contradict me? The redline is computer controlled revolution speed limitation via fuel supply control! Once the motor hits it's factory rated redline, boom, it begins to cute off fuel, to the piont where the motor will continue to rotate at it's operational speed, but not go past a certain preset value. If the value is exceeded, the computer will further reduce injector pulse width untill the operational speed falls below the preset value!

(Edited to try to keep it more civil.)

[This message has been edited by Slow Iroc (edited May 25, 2001).]

 

OH oh arguement hehe
Anywas guys it hit like 4000 or more rpm it jumps to 4000 right away and still keeps climing I think. I am not sure if its the exact redline but its high and I turn off the car because I am worried of damage

 

Have you taken a look at your throttle body? Maybe it's stuck open.

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1986 Firebird, LG4 305, bored .040 over, Crane cam, Edelbrock headers, Hooker Aerochamber muffler, loud and fast.

"Gimme fuel, gimme fire, gimme that which I desire!" - Metallica, "Fuel"

 

I had thought that (look above), but if that was the case, strating the car could become a serious problem.
You might have a SERIOUS air leak somewhere. I beleive those 2.8L intake looked like two spiders with the legs turn to each other, and if you have an air gap at that mating surface, you might have this problem. Since the car is thorwing a MAF code, if might be because the MAF is reading so low, yet the O2 sensor is telling the computer what is actually going on, while the computer richens to fuel mixture to match the preset O2 values, it dosen't understand why the MAF table would be off whack (reading little to nothing). This is is contingent on there being some air leak, but there has to be for the motor to spin that high....the air is coming from someplace and I doubt it's through the MAF.

 

I checked the throtel body its perfectly fine. The air leak sounds like something that could be a problem here. I will check into that

 

Vad,

You can jump the ALDL and turn on the ignition to fully close the IAC, then unplug it. Remove the jumper and try starting the engine with the IAC disconnected (and now closed). There should be no additional IAC air at that point.

Check for vacuum leaks, including the plenum halves as described above, and also check the PCV, brake booster and hose (temporarily cap them), EVAP canister hoses, and you might also want to take a close look at the EGR system (if the 173 even has one). Make sure there is no binding in the throttle cable, and that the throttle body is firmly mounted.

One of these ideas should get you closer to the problem.

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Later,
Vader
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"Fear is how I fall, Confusing what is real..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

Okay guys I got possible air leak or maf sensor still bad. Please give me some more suggestions. Its not flashing any codes since I havent driven it I just started it and then turned it off a few times.