<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Gta-Paladin:
First and foremost i'd like to say i've done research, and i get conflicting results... some things lead me to want to do one thing and others something totally different. So i'm looking for some of you who either have built something seen it done or run it yourselves... None of this hypothetical stuff.. Hypothetically something might run great, but in the real world it might not just cut it... i htink we've all had our share of mechanical anomalies

Second Whenever i call a speedsop i get a different answer.. why? They are selling a certain line of products and i've found 90% of the time they'll fib a bit just to get the sale.. if not a whole lot.

What am i looking at here. I want to keep my sbc, potentially stroking it. 12's have been acheived Putting a turbo on it to dip into the 11's so i dont really want to run a high compression is this correct?

Turbo's and SC's require lower compression, or timing computer, or water injection, or a combination of these. I personally am impressed with cars that can kick *** with no bottle or boost. N/A all the way!!

I've got t-tops so i'd definately need to invest in some suspension upgrades, now this is where one of my major problems arises i want the best of both worlds i want to have an awesome 1/4 car but still be able to keep up with the best of them in autox. I've been looking at Traxion's ride as he is generally steered in the same direction he is, i dont know however if the mods he has sacrifices its cornering abilities anyone lend me a hand?
http://www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=101 (Traxions ride)

Well, I'm sure TRAX hasn't sacrificed any cornering abilities as far as mechanical factors are concerned. You should talk to him directly to be sure though. I've got a comparable setup as TRAX......Very close actually, and have in no way sacrificed any handeling just because my car is into the 12's now. I've lowered my car, added a strut tower brace, better shocks, boxed LCA's, sub frame connectors (vital for your car by the way), polygraphite bushings, etc, etc. My car handles MUCH better now that it's a 12-second monster than it did when it ran 15's with the 305. The only way I might be a bit underpowered for autoX is because the Miniram makes so much more power up top. Don't get me wrong though, because I DO have tons more power down low than I did stock, just not as much as if I were to have stroked the engine.


After the Suspension is done, unquestionably i'll need a stronger rear and a 9" is my best bet so i can bolt up a set of m/t's

I've the stock Borg Warner 9-Bolt 3.27 rear gears....Still waiting for it to shread. I'm running BFG 255 50 R16's as of this season.

Now that i've got my suspension and rear in... I'm looking at exhaust is 4" retardedly too big? 3" would be fine right? for headers there is and evil debate 1 5/8ths or 1 3/4's im stumped i've hear both sides of the story played and i am convinced of both at different times.
Is my best bet to gun for higher rpm hp 7 torque? i dont want it down real low coz i just wont stop spinning.

Exhaust is debated sooo often that it should be taboo to discuss. 3" would PROBABLY work fine. Do you need 4"....It probably won't hurt. I'm running 2.5" true duals with no problems, but if i HAD to go single exhaust, I would probably go with 4" as peace of mind.. As far as headers, debatable again. If you are truely looking at a hi-revving setup like a miniram, you are best off with a long-tube/large primary design like the Hooker Super Comps (1 3/4" primaries). Rule of thumb, larger primaries are meant for higher-revving engines to help deliver more power up high. Longer tubes and smaller diameter primaries give you more bottom-end. You're gonna spin your tires anyway, just get used to the fact with a fast car. practice your launches is the best way to keep traction and guarantee low 60' times

Now we're talking transmissions
REbuild or a New tranny? taking into account i dont want to spend a ****load of money on one. Is it pretty easy to bulletproof my stock tranny?

You could easily have it rebuilt, but there are alot of aftermarket performance tranny builders out there that you might as well look at. Don't have some run-of-the-mill tranny shop build your current tranny, they don't know enough about performance to be trusted. PRO-BUILT is known to be damn good, and I'd look into them. Not too expensive either. Dana of PRO-BUILT frequents these boards, and he knows his stuff. For a few dollars more than Joe Shmoe building your tranny, you can have Dana build you a kick-butt one.

And now we get into the nitty gritty... What to do with the engineheads cam intake blah blah superram miniram ramjet or beef up the stock tpi i.e. runners etc.

You WILL need better heads and bigger cam (I'm running 218/228 with .525" lift on exhaust and intake, I could go larger if i wanted and probably be tasting 11's). It's easier to get into the twelves with a Miniram (and probably a Superram no problem), but be prepaired to dish out the cash. Stock TPI is gonna be alot more difficult to get into the 12's unless with good heads and cam.....I don't see it happening just by beefing up runners or porting the hell out of it.

to stroke not to stroke?

Remember, a 383 is meant for low-end power. A comparably built 350 can safely rev higher than a 383. once again don't get me wrong...because a 383 with Miniram that is built right with the right engine setup combination will easily get into the 12's. It's just not a screamer like a 327, 350 or 377 is. Will a 350 get you into the 12's and probably cost less??...Yes.

will 500 rwhp get me into the 12's or with all of these suspension/rear mods will i be able to do it with less?

You can be in the 12's with far less than 500rwhp.

Should i build a high revver?
or a brute torquer

Either way, it's gonna be fun, and either way, you can hit the magic number. Just remember, the correct combination of parts is the key. Another thing, PROM tuning is going to be a major factor if you stick with EFI. I recommend frequenting the DIY PROM board.....It's actually easier than you think to tune your engine via PROM burning.

oh me oh my You know what im just asking so many questions here its unbelivable so if you arent fed up by the end of all this remember im just trying to learn im on leave from the navy and i want to spend money on my car before i do something stupid like buy some land or invest.

I spent 4 year in the Nav.....I wish I would have friggin invested in land when I got out!


Once again thanks for your time and patience Any help is kindly accepted.. I know i've asked questons like these before but its getting close to crunch time the car is paid off for now 7 months later and im looking for a fun fast and safe time.

Thanos
aka
Gta-Paladin</font>

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by b92z28:
a 377 is a 400 block with aa 350 crank. its a large bore with a short stroke for its bore size. it makes lots of high end hp and revs like theres no redline.(i know ive got one in my bird now and i shift at 10,000 rpm) but with the right parts they make great low end power also.

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by the roc:
Uhh,, I'm sorry I CAN NOT RESIST. 10,000 rpm and a 12.20? You better check your tach and make sure it's set for a V8.</font>