I figured I would just put in number 1 piston to check piston to valve and all other issues. I put the studs in so I could put the head on and just to see, I tried to put the compressor on top of the number 3 cylinder and nope, it no fit with the studs in. So,.. looks like I get to pull out a few studs to get the pistons in cyls 3,5 and 7. Oh well.. at least i did not locktight them.

 

Sounds like you need a different ring compressor... mine is, oh, slightly larger than paper thin. Bought it at Sears.

 

i might try that. The one I got is meant for 400s but it has a hose clamp that allows final sizing. It is pretty thick. If I can only find one for a 400+030 in this 1 horse town.

I figured I would call it a night on it. The mosquitos were carrying me away.


[This message has been edited by jcb999 (edited May 30, 2001).]

 

Well right now mine is wrapped around a 428CJ piston, IIRC those are at least as big as the 400 pistons. Now all you gotta do is find a place that sells them

No Sears in town?

 

we got one but it is not very well stocked. Is yours the type that is black with the two bands and the hex wrench?

 

Its a square hex, but yea that sounds like what I have.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong..but aren't you supposed to NOT torque in studs? They should just be in finger tight with oil on the threads, and therefore easiest to just remove them before you put in the pistons.

------------------
"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports

 

well according to what arp said, your right. (and I did not torque them). But, finger tight is somewhat of a misnomer in my opinion.

You at least have to get then down to where they are fully threaded in the hole. This really can't be done with anything other than double nutting them and running them down most of the way (something like hylomar is better than oil for headbolt sealing).

When it comes down to it and you are torquing the nuts, if you don't have them at least moderately snug, you will be turning the whole stud and this makes torquing the studs/nuts very inconsitent.

[This message has been edited by jcb999 (edited May 31, 2001).]

 

Did you run a tap through the head bolt holes first? You should have if not. you should be able to get the studs in all the way to the bottom of the threads with just your fingers.

Oh yeah and you're right.you do have to put sealer on them. I got them mixed up with main bolts for a minute.

------------------
"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports

 

yep.. all had been tapped. they were just a little snug.

[This message has been edited by jcb999 (edited May 31, 2001).]

 

A "square hex"... That's a good one!!!