This has been discussed before with no success so I figured i'd try again and describe it better.

My engine shows code 32 being thrown, so i focused on the egr. The problem occurs whether i have the solenoid plugged in, unplugged, vacuum to valve plugged in and unplugged. The passages to the valve are clean but the valve itself seems like it takes much more than 10lbs of pressure to move it. However, since the problem occurs all the time regardless of vacuum to the valve, one would think it was stuck open, not stuck closed. I cleaned the entire valve with 2+2, compressing it and cleaning repeatedly. It seemed from what i can tell to close completely and open.

The problem is once the car has warmed up a bit, if i decelerate and come to a stop, the engine will bog down below 750rpms and stutter, if I dont push the gas down a bit it will die. If i move from park to drive and back to park after a while, it will do the same thing. rpms drop way too low, bounce back up to 800-1000 then back down to way below 750 and finally die unless i push the gas pedal. Service engine light comes on when this is happening, but no other code but 32 is given when i check. My question is, could this be anything else but a stuck open egr valve? Could the egr code simply be the result of another problem that there is no real sensor for, like a too drastic timing retard ? I ask because i can smell fuel in the exhaust and suspect that in order to get it to pass inspection the previous owner retarded the timing . Keep in mind though, if i just leave it in park it idles at 750 forever. It's not as reliable when in drive and at a long stop.

Does anyone have a picture and part number of the correct egr valve? Mine may have been replaced at one time with a valve that fits, but maybe not compatible with my car?

 

Another forum on another site, the person had to disconnect the power to the solenoid and the vacuum to the valve, then it solved his stuttering and dying problem. If the valve isn't getting vacuum cuz the hose is disconnected, what would the solenoid have to do with anything? Anyway, it seems like things are pointing to a bad egr valve. The shaft the valve slides on had scrape marks all up and down it.

Still, the IAC could still be the problem. Maybe i'll go out right now and clean it.

 

sounds like the IAC to me? my explorer does this because the iac is starting to go bad.

 

well, I decided against cleaning it for now. It appears that there really wouldn't be any point in cleaning it since the spring is what ends up needing replacement. Now i just have to price this.

 

Ok, I cleaned the IAC. It looks pretty new and undamaged. the spring moves easily. It still has the same problem though. I have to cap off the egr with a spacer plate and see if that finally fixes the problem.

 

Ok, i know engine codes especially in obd1 aren't very descriptive or a means for identifying the exact cause of a problem. But when the car stalls and the only code given is EGR, I would expect the problem to be something with the EGR. I've completely disconnected, i've reconnected, i've blocked off, i've disabled parts of the system. Nothing changes the stall. I'm fairly certain this has absolutely NOTHING to do with the EGR. So then, why is no other sensor being tripped as to the failure of a system that would eventually cause the egr's sensor to trip? If it's fuel pressure why is no fuel pressure sensor being tripped? In park, I dont stall at all, even down at 750 rpms hitting the gas and letting off abruptly, etc. I only seem to stall when moving from drive to park quickly. Sometimes when just in drive as well, but I can reproduce the stall every time when i move from drive to park. It stumbles, it tries saving itself by giving more throttle, but it eventually stalls anyway. The only code i can ever read back is 32. But i'm certain EGR has nothnig to do with it. IF it's fuel pressure the computer isn't telling me, if it's anything else I dont know either. This is just totally aggrevating me that obd1 is so useless.

The trans was changed out by the previous owner, it wasn't updated with the fixed valve to stop that rattling at idle in drive and reverse, is there anything with the transmission that could be causing the described behavior? Also, fuel pump was replaced too, though it doesn't seem to make sense that it would stall when changing gears but not in park if it was the fuel pump. But then, if anything with this car made sense it wouldn't be giving me an EGR code and actually something half useful.

 

OK, I've done much reading. This problem has been posted to this forum under various titles for the past 4 years at least. Nobody has yet to provide a solution, only suggestions. This problem is not indicative to TBI or TPI. The IAC Valve doesn't seem to be the problem either, since everyone who has posted having the problem has cleaned their IAC and it had no effect. EGR codes are thrown, but there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the EGR system, the valve is clean, passages clean, vaccuum to EGR seems to be ok.

What this thread is meant to do is find out who has fixed the problem and have them explain How they fixed it, not possible causes. I'm fairly certain that since this exact problem has been described on TPI and TBI cars that the cause is the same. Was there a vacuum problem that caused the rpms to drop too low , or was it something else?

Someone must have fixed this problem, it's far too common in just these forums for it to have gone over 4 years unsolved.