recently i posted about my starter and they said that there were problem child for these blocks to not be properly alinged if this is one how do i fix the problem.
thanks

 

I don't recall seeing your other post (a link would be helpful), but if it's what I think it is (mount bolt holes not properly drilled), about your only recourse is to have a machine shop plug the existing holes and re-drill and tap in the proper locations. This is an engine-out-of-the-car operation (although a sporty shop might attempt it in the car).

 

I'll take a wild guess that what they meant was that the starter needs to be properly shimmed. Normally the boxes for new starters will have shims in there... but the auto place doesnt give them to you for some reason .

 

ive tried every shime there is over a million times i even tried putting bushings in the starter to help keep it in place, im out of ideas this is the only thing keeping me from being able to drive my car. If anybody has anyother ideas as to what it could be please help?

heres whats going on the starter will turn over fine for about 5 trys then just go to **** it either catches or misses the fleplate somtimes it just gets stuck, put a shime in it itll be fine then act up agian ive even changed flexplates in it hoping it was it but no that didnt help either.

 

Is it a new starter?

If not, the bendix could be half broke or something.

 

this is my fifth starter, it can be the appendix u would think that maybe i would get lucky with one. but they are remanufactured

 

(bendix)

 

does anyone have anymore ideas?????

 

Is the motor stock??? has it ever been line bored??

I will only use GM remans... I have never needed shims with them

 

no, it has a stock bottom end on it, been bored .60 over and has prefomer maifold, flowtec hearder holly 600 carb, forged 9.1 pistons. powerforce harmonic damperner, um.......that should be it

 

At the risk of repeating myself:

The mount bolt holes were not properly drilled. About your only recourse is to have a machine shop plug the existing holes and re-drill and tap in the proper locations. This is an engine-out-of-the-car operation (although a sporty shop might attempt it in the car).