I went to Meineke to get an A/C inspection. They told me I had enough freon but that my condenser is clogged and that the whole system will have to be replaced.

My problem is that the compressor makes noises and vibrates a lot, but only at idle at a certain rpm (around 700 rpm). Looking at the compressor's clutch.. it's glazed. It has some white residue on it, probably from overheating which is what the shop said was caused by the clogged condenser.

The AC still works though, it still blows cold and all, it's just that it makes the noise and it's not AS COLD as it used to be.

Do you guys think I can just get a reman compressor then just get it recharged ? The guy at the shop was totally against them and said to get a new compressor. What can I do ?

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92 Z28 5.7
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Trick Flow 23° heads, Comp Cams XR270HR-10 cam, Accel intake base + ported TPI,
TES headers, Flowmaster catback, MSD ignition, #24 SVO injectors, 1LE aluminum driveshaft.

Click here to see pics of my car !

 

This is just my opinion: First, go to another shop, and get thier diagnosis. Sounds like you may only need a clutch and condensor. Second, if you need a compressor, run it until it quits, provided you can live with "not as good" condition. Also, do not go with a reman compressor, stick with new. You can purchase new ones at many discount stores, also the dealer. Be sure to replace the condensor and orfice tube while your at it.

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Rob
'86 TA 305 TPI
Gutted MAF, Ported Plenum
TB Bypass, Home made Cold Air Intake,
Edelbrock T.E.S.

 

That's exactly what they said. The condenser and orifice tube. Isnt the condensor expensive ? And I know a NEW compressor would be VERY expensive.

 

I'm having a similar prob, I priced a condenser at autozone and they're $160

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91 B4C 305 TPI - SOON TO BE 383
TREMEC 5-SP, STOCK 1-BOLT REAREAND w/342 GEARS
K&N, AIRFOIL
EDELBROCK HEADERS, DUAL CAT TO HOMEMADE Y-PIPE & 3.5" SINGLE PIPE W/ FLOWMASTER
CRANK PULLEY, MSD, FUEL PRESS REG
COWL HOOD, WELD WHEELS
14.1@ 98MPH
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OTHER RIDE
67 CAMARO - STREET CAR
BIG BLOCK, PUMP GAS
350TH w/ATI 10"
12-BOLT w/373 GEARS
10.90s ON MOTOR - ET-STREETs w/MUFFLERS

 

Yea, the Condenser is apx $150, and the orfice tube is like $4. A new compressor can be had for around $350. I worked at Checker Auto, and boy did I see alot of remans come back. And the warrenty DOES NOT cover all of that expensive freon.

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Rob
'86 TA 305 TPI
Gutted MAF, Ported Plenum
TB Bypass, Home made Cold Air Intake,
Edelbrock T.E.S.

 

IMHO the shop is ful of **it. They are trying to dig as deep as possible into your wallet, hoping you are dumb enough to bite.

Condensers almost never get "plugged up". However, accumulator/dryers do. That is the silver can right in front of the blower motor. IIRC one of those is $30 something.

On my 83, it had the belt vibration thing at idle from the day I got it. It seemed to just be an issue of the belt resonating with the pulses from the compressor (it's a little piston thing, so its flow is just like the intake & exhaust through a little engine). It's totally harmless, nothing to worry about. You can change the RPM it does it at by tightening or loosening the belt, i.e. tuning it like you would a guitar string.

The clutches always look "glazed".

If your A/C works, and doesn't leak more than a can every year or 2, I'd recommend just putting a can of oil charge in it, and one can of Freon if the low-side pressure is below about 35 psi at max operation. Also, clean the condenser coil out as good as you can, get all the leaves and bugs and everything else out of it.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Synergy,

Not that I'm some expert or anything (but I DO have EPA universal refrigeration certification since 1993, including commercial/ammonia systems) and I find it hard to believe that the boys at "muffler central" can isolate a blockage to the condenser, when I know I can't find an intermediate service valve between the condenser and the expansion control. How do they know this? I want to understand their secret. Did they wet the condenser or hot gas line to force condensation? Did they install a receiver/drier in the liquid line and check the pressure there? Did they even check superheat? I'm thinking NO.

The condenser has relatively large tubes, and the expansion is controlled by some pretty small orifaces, so where do you think is the most likely place for blockage? If they are claiming that the condenser is externally blocked, I might buy that but advise you to clean it instead of replacing it. I'd believe a bad evaporator before a condenser.

Does the condenser reject heat? Are there any cold or frosty/icy spots on the condenser when the system is running? Does the accumulator pressure at low side maintain a steady pressure or fluctuate with engine/compressor speed? What are pressures at ambient on both sides of the system? What refrigerant are you using? Does the system pressure stabilize within a minute of shutting down the compressor? More data, please.

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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

Well they put it on their machine. The guy said the "high side" has way too much pressure because it was in the "red". That's when they came to the conclusion that the condenser is plugged. The compressor is most the likely shot since it makes a VERY loud and deep grind that spreads throughout the car at idle. I tried it again today and it blows pretty damn cold, it's just that the car overheats when I do it. But that's because I broke one of my fans and my coolant system needed to be flushed ( i did it toady). I think I'll keep running it until it gets worse. lol

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92 Z28 5.7
------------------
Trick Flow 23° heads, Comp Cams XR270HR-10 cam, Accel intake base + ported TPI,
TES headers, Flowmaster catback, MSD ignition, #24 SVO injectors, 1LE aluminum driveshaft.

Click here to see pics of my car !