Engine Building for Turbo's & S/Cs
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 151
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From: Roselawn, IN, Newton Co.
Car: 92 RS
Engine: VSux
Transmission: Flux Capacitor
Engine Building for Turbo's & S/Cs
I couldn't decide whether to post this in power adder forum or here so if you mods want to move it be my guest. Now what I was wondering was what considerations do you have to take when you are building an engine to take a turbo or supercharger? Is it just about the same for both or different things for both? I don't expect you to tell me how to build an engine or anything in this post, but any website/book recommendations are welcome.
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1992 RS 3.1
1985 POS (SC 2.8 CFI)
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1992 RS 3.1
1985 POS (SC 2.8 CFI)
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,978
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From: PA
Car: 88 Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
A well built motor specifically set up for forced induction has the turbos/sc scale matched to the motors cubes,demand,rpm... I can't egt into detail here because I'm not fully sure on how they figure the efficiency or the 'curve' of the PSI's..
I do know low ratio pistons (forged) with a wider ring gap are req'd for serious boost. Also there's a trick of drilling two counter-secting holes into a main to rod oil passage and directing it toward the bottoms of the pistons and putting a sized orfice there to spray oil on the bottoms for cooling. Also for more serious street strip blown apps I hear of "multi-stage" EFI where you run cheap pump gas in normal driving conditions, but at WOT, a secondary system kicks in to supply either methanol, race gas, or water (to reduce/eleminate detonation).
Forged cranks, pistons, and the best of the bottom end is a good direction, as is aluminum heads and the proper cam.
Just staying out of detonation is the important part.
I do know low ratio pistons (forged) with a wider ring gap are req'd for serious boost. Also there's a trick of drilling two counter-secting holes into a main to rod oil passage and directing it toward the bottoms of the pistons and putting a sized orfice there to spray oil on the bottoms for cooling. Also for more serious street strip blown apps I hear of "multi-stage" EFI where you run cheap pump gas in normal driving conditions, but at WOT, a secondary system kicks in to supply either methanol, race gas, or water (to reduce/eleminate detonation).
Forged cranks, pistons, and the best of the bottom end is a good direction, as is aluminum heads and the proper cam.
Just staying out of detonation is the important part.
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