This whole engine has been nothing but problems. I put my intake baseplate on tonight and there is a big gap between the intake and the front and back of the block!!! The directions said to just use silicon, but there is just too much space. It's an Edelbrock baseplate and I am using AFR heads. What should I do??
Also I think I stripped a bolt that holds the intake to the head on one side. It will still tighten too a decent amount by hand, but then acts like a stripped bolt. Is there anything I can put on it like threadsealer or JB Weld?? It's not one that goes into the lifter galley.
Someone please help me.....I thought all my troubles were finally over!!

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Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, AFR 190 heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


Attention Everyone!!! I will be changing my name on the message boards to HardcoreZ28 sometime in the near future. Just wanted to let everyone know.

 

How big of a gap are we talking here?

If you stripped a hole out in the head, the only way to fix it right is to install an insert.

 

Ok well the gap is about 3/8 of an inch, but I just saw in the AFR catalog that they sell special spacers for this problem aparrently. I'm assuming this is all I need.

As far as the stripped bolt hole insert I'm assuming you mean a heli-coil?? I forget, do you have to make the hole bigger to install the heli-coil, or just use a smaller bolt?? Do I have any other options?

 

Never mind!!

[This message has been edited by 8Mike9 (edited June 09, 2001).]

 

Are those aluminum heads? If you stripped a bolt hole in an iron head ... kudos to you! most I've been able to do is break a bolt off in an iron head ... still a bitch to fix. You would need to drill the hole out big enough to install the helicoil, that or you can retap the hole for a slightly larger bolt. Make sure to back out often during tapping ... another easy way to break something off in that hole and is NOT easy to get a tap out!

Most intake gasket sets come with the rubber seals for the front and back ... wonder why yours didn't. I didn't need mine, but hell if I know where they are now!

 

I agree with all of the above posts, but would add my recommendation to use a little oil when tapping the hole - it'll make tapping easier and less likely to break the tap.

I have encountered nothing worse than breaking a tap in a hole. There are tap removers that I've used (they're not too common, but McMaster Carr sells them - they have a web site) that aren't 100% effective, but I've had good success with them. Remember, the tap is very hard metal, so drilling it out will probably not be an option.

The gap you pointed out (~3/8") is normal, and while some manufactures include a rubber gasket to take up the slack, some people (myself included) prefer to just use a silicone sealant to seal the front and rear spaces where the intake meets the block.

I've used the rubber gasket method, and put a little silicone rubber on the edges of the rubber gaskets where it meets the heads to fill in the little gaps (cracks) there. I haven't had a problem with this method, but still prefer the silicone sealant method because I think the rubber will be more prone to move or shift sometime after installation causing a leak. Silicone is more adhesive.

 

Try a longer bolt (longest one that will not bottom out). You might get lucky and be able to torque it to SPEC --- the bolts you're using could have been too short to begin with. If it works on that one,, replace all of them. I'd fix that one you messed up,, unless the bolt was barely engaged.

edit - Stuart - he said 3/8" gap, that is not normal. Most rubber or cork block to manifold gaskets are around 1/8" - not that I use them either.


[This message has been edited by BadSS (edited June 09, 2001).]

 

Well, actually I said ~3/8 --- it's that "~" that makes the statement general enough to cover for any of my errors

It's hard for me to remember exactly - you're probably correct.

 

I have never heard of the longer bolt method, but I don't think it will work because the bolt was all the way in when it happened. I have a friend who is probably going to helicoil it for me.
As far as the gap, AFR has special adapter seals for it, so I'll call them on monday.

------------------
Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, AFR 190 heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??