Okay, this just started out of the blue today. I was driving along, all fine and dandy, then I stopped for a toll. As soon as I started going again, the car would not accept any form of throttle other than a light touch(which I could use to climb to around 70mph). The car would only rev to around 3K, there was extreme lurching and vibrations. However, if I put it in neutral, I can rev the car to red line just like normal. Anyone have *any* idea what the problem might be? It's an 89 350 camaro.

 

Change your ignition module. My guess is that it's not telling the computer to advance the ignition. I had the exact same problem on a C7500 truck.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block

Best ET on a time slip: 11.242 altitude corrected to 10.89
Best MPH on a time slip: 121.52 altitude corrected to 125.89
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 481.6
Best 60 foot: 1.546

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

What type of price range would this be? Should be an easy enough task to install though, right?

 

Also. Does it matter that the SES light isn't coming on at all? Isn't this sort of thing something that would trigger it(being able to push the pedal to the floor and having it only rev the three grand, and not go anywhere at the same time)?

 

Check your catalatyic converter, mine was like that for a while. mine got bad enough you could put it in neutral and floor it and it would still only tach out at like 4.5 grand...hell of a safetly device, good way not to redline it

But yeah it sounds exactly like when my cat was clogged

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1986 Trans Am, T-Top, 305 TPI, Flowmaster 80 series. Much more to come in July.
[*]Sound System: Dual 12" Ground Zero Nuclear Series 900 watt RMS subs in custom box made to fit the rear well, Only 500 watts running them though, Pioneer Head Unit and Rockford Fosgate wiring.


AOL screen name= madbiker1

 

That sounds exactly like what the engine will do with a plugged catalytic converter. I am betting it is the converter form your description of the symptoms. Which is not all that bad of a deal since it is an excuse to gutt the converter or put on a 'test pipe' in its place.

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1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, Home-made cold air system w/ K+N cone and AFPR, TB bypass, AirFoil, !AIR, !A/C, !EVAP, 2300 stall.

"Stop Lights timed for 35Mph are also timed for 140Mph"

 

Ya know, that very well could be guys! My flowmaster rusted off a while ago, and I had to drive with the midpipe just kinda flopping around for a couple weeks. That would have been the perfect time for the cat to take a beating that could have broken it up.

 

Well isn't this just a pleasant turn of events? I was pretty bored, so I went outside and tried to start the car now that it would be a cold start. Guess what? Fires up right away, idles fine, and what's even more wonderful...it runs perfectly. Would this mean that the cat can be eliminated as a source of the problem? More than likely, now it can be focused on something that doesn't stand up to the heat build up of regular driving? Any new ideas?

 

Yes the cat can be eliminated, either its blocking your exhaust or it's not. Also I'd say if the the exhaust was blocked, your engine would run very warm, your headers or exhaust manifolds would almost glow from the heat backing up. I am having this same problem and am leaning towards a bad ignition module. Mine is intermittent, worse when I plug my 6AL in.


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Rob P
89RSconvtZZ4TPI
Edelbrock Hi-Flow Intake
SLP Dual Cold Air Intake
1 5/8" Headers
Semi-Siamesed Runners
MSD6AL/AdjFPR/IROC frnt@rear swaybar/wonderbar/steeringbox/alum drvshaft/ Alston SFC/3:23posi disc rear/MAC LCA/H.Adams Panhard Rod/KYB struts/ shocks/
92Z28convt5spd
71Impala convt 402BB
BETTER DRIVING THRU SUPERIOR HORSEPOWER!

 

Duh

[This message has been edited by Steve00YZF (edited June 11, 2001).]

 

Crap, well I just got done installing the new ICM, took it for a spin. The problem is there but somewhat reduced. This is most likely because the car hasn't really heated up yet. Any other ideas guys?

 

Do a full test on your injectors. Do a resistance check on them when they are cold and hot (from blade to blade on the injector with the harness off connect an ohmmeter and read the resistance for each injector). If any of the injectors are a lot lower than the rest(they should be around 13-16 ohms but all around the same amount - I forget what the specs are but I can look them up if needed - a bad injector should be easy to spot if this is the problem), than it could be shorting out and messing up all of the injectors on that side of the engine since it is a batch fire system and fires all injectors on a bank simultaneously. That could be it as I have seen this many times in TPI cars that sit for long periods of time. The injectors seem to short out internally but act up more as the temperature underhood rises causing misfires and lack of power.

Also, I wouldn't totally rule out the converter, as it may be all melted and broken up inside and it just happened to loosen up a bit and now it runs a lot better. Just rip that bastard off and gutt it. At the very least it will give ya better sounding exhaust and a few ponies.....

Some ideas..........

Good luck.............

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1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, Home-made cold air system w/ K+N cone, AFPR, TB bypass, AirFoil, !AIR, !A/C, !EVAP, 2300 stall.

"Stop Lights timed for 35Mph are also timed for 140Mph"