the noise wasn't a rocker arm...
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
the noise wasn't a rocker arm...
it sounds internal.
spun bearing? piston slap?
what are the symptoms of a spun bearing? I'm hearing a definite metal-to-metal noise from the passenger side, I've got erradic oil pressure (25-60psi, even at steady rpm), smoke coming from dipstick (or steam?), and it has been running like crap lately. I tightened all of the rockers 1/4 turn; I couldn't hear anything over the loud sucking of the TBI, and I don't think it was a tick because I was feeling for looseness and got nothing.
spun bearing? piston slap?
what are the symptoms of a spun bearing? I'm hearing a definite metal-to-metal noise from the passenger side, I've got erradic oil pressure (25-60psi, even at steady rpm), smoke coming from dipstick (or steam?), and it has been running like crap lately. I tightened all of the rockers 1/4 turn; I couldn't hear anything over the loud sucking of the TBI, and I don't think it was a tick because I was feeling for looseness and got nothing.
Last edited by Token; Dec 31, 2004 at 12:07 PM.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
I have a sample video of the noise... Idling at about 1000-1200rpm you can distinctly hear it. It's very embarrassing.
http://oej.homestead.com/files/noisyidle.avi
http://oej.homestead.com/files/noisyidle.avi
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From: Marietta, GA
Car: '91 Firebird Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI (LO3)
Transmission: 700r4, Vette Servo
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 Bolt, PBR disks
OMG... that sounds horrible.
I'm not going to be much help here but if I had to guess, I would say you'r exhaust manifold has either cracked or the manifold gasket has been compromised in some way. That doesn't explain the steam from the dipstick though. I'm afraid to guess what that could be.
What were you doing when this started happening?
Sorry.
I'm not going to be much help here but if I had to guess, I would say you'r exhaust manifold has either cracked or the manifold gasket has been compromised in some way. That doesn't explain the steam from the dipstick though. I'm afraid to guess what that could be.
What were you doing when this started happening?
Sorry.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by Cadillac
OMG... that sounds horrible.
I'm not going to be much help here but if I had to guess, I would say you'r exhaust manifold has either cracked or the manifold gasket has been compromised in some way. That doesn't explain the steam from the dipstick though. I'm afraid to guess what that could be.
What were you doing when this started happening?
Sorry.
OMG... that sounds horrible.
I'm not going to be much help here but if I had to guess, I would say you'r exhaust manifold has either cracked or the manifold gasket has been compromised in some way. That doesn't explain the steam from the dipstick though. I'm afraid to guess what that could be.
What were you doing when this started happening?
Sorry.
and it just started doing this about a week and a half ago.
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From: Marietta, GA
Car: '91 Firebird Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI (LO3)
Transmission: 700r4, Vette Servo
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 Bolt, PBR disks
Originally posted by Token
and it just started doing this about a week and a half ago.
and it just started doing this about a week and a half ago.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by Cadillac
Started happening out of the blue?
Started happening out of the blue?
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I'm having trouble loading the sound file over dial-up, but if you're hearing noises and oil pressure is wierd, sounds like bearing damage.
Even though people say it all the time, bearings are rarely "spun". They can be damaged from lack of oil pressure, and since you say nothing unusual happened or was done, it may have been your oil pump that started the problems.
Even though people say it all the time, bearings are rarely "spun". They can be damaged from lack of oil pressure, and since you say nothing unusual happened or was done, it may have been your oil pump that started the problems.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by five7kid
I'm having trouble loading the sound file over dial-up, but if you're hearing noises and oil pressure is wierd, sounds like bearing damage.
Even though people say it all the time, bearings are rarely "spun". They can be damaged from lack of oil pressure, and since you say nothing unusual happened or was done, it may have been your oil pump that started the problems.
I'm having trouble loading the sound file over dial-up, but if you're hearing noises and oil pressure is wierd, sounds like bearing damage.
Even though people say it all the time, bearings are rarely "spun". They can be damaged from lack of oil pressure, and since you say nothing unusual happened or was done, it may have been your oil pump that started the problems.
Originally posted by Stekman
When you remove the valve covers, you don't see anything broken or anything?
When you remove the valve covers, you don't see anything broken or anything?
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by Token
you can save it, it's only 1.2MB
you can save it, it's only 1.2MB
I'll try later.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by five7kid
I gave it ten minutes, then gave up.
I'll try later.
I gave it ten minutes, then gave up.
I'll try later.
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
It's the sound of an engine that needs to be replaced.
Thank your lucky stars that you live in a state that has no smog laws, and your car is powered by a gen1 sbc.
You can pull an engine from anything from a wrecked vette to a dumptruck and it will fit, and you can make it run.
Thank your lucky stars that you live in a state that has no smog laws, and your car is powered by a gen1 sbc.
You can pull an engine from anything from a wrecked vette to a dumptruck and it will fit, and you can make it run.
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From: Silverhill,Al
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-5
Sounds pretty bad, take a short peice of hose and use it like a stethoscope and see if you can determine where the sound is coming from, It sounds like internal engine noise but I have heard a similar noise that was just a loose flexplate.
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From: Edmonton
Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
dont run the engine...if it is bearing damage you may do more damage to your hard parts.I would agree thats its bearing damage due to the eratic oil pressure.I'd pull the pan and check there bearings if you can,might find some neet metal figurines in there
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
maybe a collapsed lifter? I didn't feel any play when I was adjusting the rockers this morning...
Go to Sears and get a mechanic's stethoscope. You'd be surprised how easy it will make it to isolate noises like exhaust leaks, bearings, rockers, vacuum leaks, etc. Is the noise at engine speed or half engine speed? Remember the crank will spin twice for each rev of the valvetrain. The timing light will flash every other rev, or at half engine speed.
I don't think it's valvetrain. Goes too fast if that engine is running at idle speed. Valvetrain noises are at 1/2 of engine RPM and that just sounds too fast to be something valvetrain related unless it was running at an elevated RPM level when you took the video.
Something in the bottom end went ka-plooey probably (that's the technical term). I would check some obvious stuff first- like did the flywheel/flexplate loosen up or snap a bolt off? That can put up a heckuva racket. Ditto and balancer that's badly wrecked in some way. But given the oil pressure and smoke from the dipstick problems I'm gonna say that short block has gone bye-bye.
Something in the bottom end went ka-plooey probably (that's the technical term). I would check some obvious stuff first- like did the flywheel/flexplate loosen up or snap a bolt off? That can put up a heckuva racket. Ditto and balancer that's badly wrecked in some way. But given the oil pressure and smoke from the dipstick problems I'm gonna say that short block has gone bye-bye.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
I can't find where exactly the sound is coming from, but it's not consistent. It does not always make the knocking sound, however for the most part it gets louder with RPM. It does however stay consistent with rpm, making the noise as per the motor turning. I have yet to rule anything out, because I figure if I am going to rip the motor apart I might as well get a new one anyway.
Let's recap the potential problem list:
- At best, it is a collapsed lifter- but I would think that it would be making this noise on a more consistent basis, and I don't know if it would get louder with rpm. This would be the easiest thing to replace, because it's just right under the intake manifold. However, the last time I had the valve cover off I definitely did not notice anything akward such as a loose pushrod. Doesn't mean I won't check again! But you're right, it sounds wayyy too loud to be a valve tick.
- I have been also told it is potentially piston slap, but again I would guess it to be more consistent of a sound. I'm not sure of how common piston slap would be on a 305, however anything is possible.
- With my oil pressure being sporatic, I am lead to believe that it could be a spun bearing. I do not know if there is any contact with the piston to the head, but I would also assume that it's going to be extremely loud, and I would also figure to have bent valves in the process, causing an extreme power loss which I am not experiencing. But then again, what else is possible?
- I was driving this POS to work today, and I had an idea. Could it potentially have anything to do with a flexplate? I've heard stories, but I am not entirely sure how the sound would be made. I think that it's a big gear that's bolted to the crank, correct? But as I said, I am fairly sure that this sound is coming from the passenger side of the engine compartment but not 100%.
I have yet to change my oil due to the fact I have no garage or any place to work on my car, and it's been nonstop rain and snow for the past two weeks. I have checked the color of the oil, and it's definitely black as coffee. I will see if I can borrow a buddy's garage some time this week. It's hard working 40 hours and still trying to function around working on my car, especially when it's dark by 5pm.
How much is a comression tester? Doesn't seem like much money and it would be a great addition to the tool collection. I would use it just by turning the motor one half turn, right? The concept is there, but I'm not familiar with what they look like (other than a hose and guage) or their correct operation.
Let's recap the potential problem list:
- At best, it is a collapsed lifter- but I would think that it would be making this noise on a more consistent basis, and I don't know if it would get louder with rpm. This would be the easiest thing to replace, because it's just right under the intake manifold. However, the last time I had the valve cover off I definitely did not notice anything akward such as a loose pushrod. Doesn't mean I won't check again! But you're right, it sounds wayyy too loud to be a valve tick.
- I have been also told it is potentially piston slap, but again I would guess it to be more consistent of a sound. I'm not sure of how common piston slap would be on a 305, however anything is possible.
- With my oil pressure being sporatic, I am lead to believe that it could be a spun bearing. I do not know if there is any contact with the piston to the head, but I would also assume that it's going to be extremely loud, and I would also figure to have bent valves in the process, causing an extreme power loss which I am not experiencing. But then again, what else is possible?
- I was driving this POS to work today, and I had an idea. Could it potentially have anything to do with a flexplate? I've heard stories, but I am not entirely sure how the sound would be made. I think that it's a big gear that's bolted to the crank, correct? But as I said, I am fairly sure that this sound is coming from the passenger side of the engine compartment but not 100%.
I have yet to change my oil due to the fact I have no garage or any place to work on my car, and it's been nonstop rain and snow for the past two weeks. I have checked the color of the oil, and it's definitely black as coffee. I will see if I can borrow a buddy's garage some time this week. It's hard working 40 hours and still trying to function around working on my car, especially when it's dark by 5pm.
How much is a comression tester? Doesn't seem like much money and it would be a great addition to the tool collection. I would use it just by turning the motor one half turn, right? The concept is there, but I'm not familiar with what they look like (other than a hose and guage) or their correct operation.
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Car: 1984 FIREBIRD
Engine: 305
Transmission: AUTOMATIC
I posted a similar problem yesterday. "...timing ok but Knock/Rattling noise"
Loved the Video/Audio.
I wish I was as technologically advanced.
That is the same noise my car is making.
I had two different guys look at it and they also thought it might be transmission related but it sounds like it is coming from front right side.
Question is if it is Trans related would not the noise change pitch or rhythm when it is put in drive, reverse or under load.
Thanks
Loved the Video/Audio.
I wish I was as technologically advanced.
That is the same noise my car is making.
I had two different guys look at it and they also thought it might be transmission related but it sounds like it is coming from front right side.
Question is if it is Trans related would not the noise change pitch or rhythm when it is put in drive, reverse or under load.
Thanks
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
That is not piston slap. It sounds like death. It may be time to swap those parts on a 350. You may spend less getting a 350 than paying to have this problem diagnosed.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by ShiftyCapone
That is not piston slap. It sounds like death. It may be time to swap those parts on a 350. You may spend less getting a 350 than paying to have this problem diagnosed.
That is not piston slap. It sounds like death. It may be time to swap those parts on a 350. You may spend less getting a 350 than paying to have this problem diagnosed.
I am going to see what my dad can do for me (monetarily) and if nothing then I am going to cry and take the city bus everywhere. I'm so sad
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Where do I go from here?
I could really go for a 350 right now. I'm going to start looking around for one ASAP. And obviously the car in its current condition is fairly worthless, at best $1500 from a dealer trade-in. I want a 4th gen (LT1 M6) really bad too, but I have a ton of parts that would fit a thirdgen for muscle.
I should find a really beat up, ugly L98 thirdgen with 3.xx posi and work on that. I've got auto-body classes this semester...
I could really go for a 350 right now. I'm going to start looking around for one ASAP. And obviously the car in its current condition is fairly worthless, at best $1500 from a dealer trade-in. I want a 4th gen (LT1 M6) really bad too, but I have a ton of parts that would fit a thirdgen for muscle.
I should find a really beat up, ugly L98 thirdgen with 3.xx posi and work on that. I've got auto-body classes this semester...
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
I just recently had that noise. That my friend, is the sound of a collapsed lifter. I can hear the ticking. Pull the intake and replace the lifters.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by pasky
I just recently had that noise. That my friend, is the sound of a collapsed lifter. I can hear the ticking. Pull the intake and replace the lifters.
I just recently had that noise. That my friend, is the sound of a collapsed lifter. I can hear the ticking. Pull the intake and replace the lifters.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Okay, who the hell cares what's wrong with it.
The fact of the matter is, that it is dying within the next 25 miles. I can garauntee this.
I just drove it home from work, and it was getting progressively louder, then the SES light came on and told me to gtfo. I am driving it back to my parents house in a bit, to use as leverage to get a new motor/car/etc from my dad. If that doesn't work, he can at least pay to tow the f*cker away and be burned
The fact of the matter is, that it is dying within the next 25 miles. I can garauntee this.
I just drove it home from work, and it was getting progressively louder, then the SES light came on and told me to gtfo. I am driving it back to my parents house in a bit, to use as leverage to get a new motor/car/etc from my dad. If that doesn't work, he can at least pay to tow the f*cker away and be burned
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From: Oklahoma
Car: 1991 Trans AM GTA
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
A cracked flexplate and a "spun" bearing sound the same. But from your description of erratic oil pressure, I am going to have to agree with everyone else that it is a bearing. Has the car overheated any that you are aware of?
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by White91GTA
A cracked flexplate and a "spun" bearing sound the same. But from your description of erratic oil pressure, I am going to have to agree with everyone else that it is a bearing. Has the car overheated any that you are aware of?
A cracked flexplate and a "spun" bearing sound the same. But from your description of erratic oil pressure, I am going to have to agree with everyone else that it is a bearing. Has the car overheated any that you are aware of?
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Car: 1984 FIREBIRD
Engine: 305
Transmission: AUTOMATIC
Just for peace of mind try a new Oil pressure switch. $30.00
Mine was jumping 20-60 replaced and now reads good 60-65.
It also fixed a mysterious oil leak I couldnt find.
Mine was jumping 20-60 replaced and now reads good 60-65.
It also fixed a mysterious oil leak I couldnt find.
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
I agree with Formula75 - can't hurt to try a new switch just to be sure that's not the source of the fluctuating pressure. IF it is, then the rest may not be so serious/expensive to fix.....
Originally posted by vernw
I agree with Formula75 - can't hurt to try a new switch just to be sure that's not the source of the fluctuating pressure. IF it is, then the rest may not be so serious/expensive to fix.....
I agree with Formula75 - can't hurt to try a new switch just to be sure that's not the source of the fluctuating pressure. IF it is, then the rest may not be so serious/expensive to fix.....
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Nope - they're blocked from downloading here (paranoid employer) sorry - I'll go back to sleep/lurking again....
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I finally was able to get it to play.
Too much talking over the noise. And, it would be helpful to hear it at varying RPMs as well.
But, sounds like either a really bad lifter or a rod bearing.
Too much talking over the noise. And, it would be helpful to hear it at varying RPMs as well.
But, sounds like either a really bad lifter or a rod bearing.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by five7kid
I finally was able to get it to play.
Too much talking over the noise. And, it would be helpful to hear it at varying RPMs as well.
But, sounds like either a really bad lifter or a rod bearing.
I finally was able to get it to play.
Too much talking over the noise. And, it would be helpful to hear it at varying RPMs as well.
But, sounds like either a really bad lifter or a rod bearing.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by dj haf
token, how big is the file? i can host it for you... just PM me with the size of the video
token, how big is the file? i can host it for you... just PM me with the size of the video
4.23mb though
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Car: 1984 FIREBIRD
Engine: 305
Transmission: AUTOMATIC
Token,
My car is making the same noise. Its an 84 305 with automatic transmission.
I can not afford a new engine or professional diagnosis.
Some repliies to your question said flexplate and others said no because of flucuating oil pressure.
I think Oil pressure is a seperate issue.
Try the oil pressure switch, quick and easy fix.
I am going to drop my transmission this weekend. I am being told where the flex plate mounts to the crank is where it would be cracked.
You can not see that just by removing the dust cover.
I will let you know monday what I find.
Formula75
My car is making the same noise. Its an 84 305 with automatic transmission.
I can not afford a new engine or professional diagnosis.
Some repliies to your question said flexplate and others said no because of flucuating oil pressure.
I think Oil pressure is a seperate issue.
Try the oil pressure switch, quick and easy fix.
I am going to drop my transmission this weekend. I am being told where the flex plate mounts to the crank is where it would be cracked.
You can not see that just by removing the dust cover.
I will let you know monday what I find.
Formula75
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From: Miami, Florida
Car: 1990 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 L98
Transmission: 700R4
thats a big file for me to host off my dsl... but send it to me at djhafownz@cofs.net in a zip file and ill host it for you. later
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by Red Devil
Have you guys checked you flexplates yet?
Have you guys checked you flexplates yet?
I don't have a garage, there is 6" of snow out, and my doors are frozen shut. I think the car is fine just not being touched lol.
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From: Pitman, NJ
Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
Kinda sounds like something valve train related to me... but if the oil pressure is going nuts its gotta be a bearing problem.
All the "rods knocks" i've heard sound much deeper and arent quite as, whats the word? melodic? Rather than going ticktickticktickticktickticktick along with the RPM it'd go like "clacktick----cliclclickticktick---tick---clickc---tickkk-----clackalclack"
I dont think it'd hurt to pull off the valve covers again and check over all the springs, studs, rockers, and pushrods then if they're alright time to take off the intake and check out the lifters... Also might be able to give you an idea by pulling out the dipstick and rubbing the oil onto your fingers. Is it grity or have any metal particles in it?
Anyway, this thread could go on forever of what the sound might be, the only way you're going to figure it out is by tearing it apart. Start wrenchin' what do you have to lose that you dont already think is lost?
All the "rods knocks" i've heard sound much deeper and arent quite as, whats the word? melodic? Rather than going ticktickticktickticktickticktick along with the RPM it'd go like "clacktick----cliclclickticktick---tick---clickc---tickkk-----clackalclack"
I dont think it'd hurt to pull off the valve covers again and check over all the springs, studs, rockers, and pushrods then if they're alright time to take off the intake and check out the lifters... Also might be able to give you an idea by pulling out the dipstick and rubbing the oil onto your fingers. Is it grity or have any metal particles in it?
Anyway, this thread could go on forever of what the sound might be, the only way you're going to figure it out is by tearing it apart. Start wrenchin' what do you have to lose that you dont already think is lost?
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Today, the motor seized up and died.
I'm not sure if it blew anything apart or if it just stopped stroking, but in any case it's dead and now is on the market for sale. ENJOY!
Thanks for those who helped, and who mourn my loss
I'm not sure if it blew anything apart or if it just stopped stroking, but in any case it's dead and now is on the market for sale. ENJOY!
Thanks for those who helped, and who mourn my loss
so it died, go buy a 305 short block for 50 bucks and replace it. Or any number of sbc's to fit under it. You could make it run for a couple hundred dollars AT MOST and not get slaughtered on the re sale.
I sold a car a few years ago for 300 dollars because it died and i was to lazy to figure out what was wrong. I took a major loss on it and it turned out to be a 30 dollar timing belt.
I sold a car a few years ago for 300 dollars because it died and i was to lazy to figure out what was wrong. I took a major loss on it and it turned out to be a 30 dollar timing belt.
Last edited by nsimmons; Jan 7, 2005 at 11:10 PM.
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