first off I have a 1991 Z28 TPI...

I got my 1.6 gold Roller Rockers on yesterday and put everything back together. I followed the directions (I thought) to the tee. Anyway when I started the car it sounds like a diesel and the engine itself shakes alot. I know everything is put together correctly except the quart of oil that leakd out of the back of the manifold because my friend had told me front and rear gaskets were not necessary and to use just Black GM silicone. Somebody told me the valves are out of adjustment. What is a good way to adjust these things? A foolproof way? I've heard it was a good idea to rip the valve covers off and loosen all of the rockers and start the engine. Please help me I need the car on the road by wednesday. Thanks.

 

You don't want to run the car with the rockers loose, well you would with REGULAR non-roller rockers but with rollers, they will slide right off(don't ask how i know). I have some of the gold warn off one of mine after i finally figured out the problem.

Oh and i'm not sure as to what your problem is...

Brendan

 

I realize you followed the instructions, and I may be no help, but let me shed what little light I can.

I've read manuals that say when the engine is at #1 firing, you can adjust half of the exhaust and half of the intake valves, then when you rotate 360*, you can adjust the remaining. I don't like this method.

Heres what I do. Rotate the engine to #1 TDC on the compression stroke, where you know both valves are closed all the way. Adjust them until the pushrods just start to drag, and then slowly tighten another 3/4 turn. Rotate the engine 90* and adjust the #8 cylinder. Continue throughout the firing order... 18436572. Keep us posted bro.

------------------
-Jason M. 1991 Camaro Z28

 

Here is what I do:

I make sure both valves on a certain cylinder is down. Then I take the pushrod between my two fingers and with the other hand tighten the rocker nut until there is no up and down movement on the pushrod at all. Then 1/2 turn.

That should be pretty darn close to perfect. After I get it like this I start it up and back them off till they tick. Barely tighten it till it stops then 1/2 turn.

I do the first step just to make sure that they aren't too tight or loose to start up the motor. The bad thing is I always do the first step when the intake is off so you might have to take it back off. Hope this helps.

 

Heres what I did

I adjusted the RR's exactly how the instructions said to. I ratated the engine what seemed like 50 times by hand and did 1 at a time. I rotated the engine until the exhaust RR (the one above the header) set down all the way. Then I took off the stamped sttel and put on the RR's. I tightened the lock nut until the pushrod was barely turnable. I then tightened 1/2 turn and ocked the nut. I turned it again until the intake came up and was 1/3 down then I did the exhaust the same. My friend was tellinhg me all I need to do now is to take off the cvalve covers (wich is hell with SLP siamesed runners) and back off all the RR's until the pushrod just had the slightest resistance. He said tighen one at a time until they stop clicking then go 1/4 turn more.

Is that a good idea? Wont oil go all over the place? Also do I use gaskets or just silicone on the intake manifolds front and rear? Thanks guy's

 

Also, you said "until there is no up and down movement in the pushrod" I thought I was supposed to turn it until I felt resistance. Damn I'm lost. I've done alot of stuff on my car but this project and heat has me burned out and very irritated. I wouldnt mind it so much if there was a way to know I have them adjusted correctly before I put it back together. I just dont want to do this again and again.

 

I'lll bet you a dollar you have them all too tight. The give away is the 'till i could barely turn it'...i know you meant well and you thought that's what 'resistance' meant in the dirtections. Cuz thats exactly what i did when i adjusted valves the first time in my friends car (thats the key, always expewriment on someone elses car.)
I have found it easier to set by tightening till there is no up and down play. now BE CAREFUL on how hard you push down, as the lifter does have some play in the spring, you want to stop when you are just touching the spring. Then go 1/2 - 3/4 turn further and set eth poly lock.
then you should be fine.
...ed
btw, i also do it the way he said above, start at #1 in the firing order and do each cylinder as you go through, it's the easiest way to keep track of mentally.

------------------
Ed Maher - Moderator @ The Carb Board
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
LB9 4L60 GU2 G80 - stock, soon to be sleeper
-=ICON Motorsports=-

- Definitely prototypes, high powered mutants of some kind. Too weird to live, too cool to die

 

Also, regarding your front and rear manifold to block seal, I've been using Permatex Ultra-Grey, and it seems to work great. I used it on a 79 Plymouth Trail Duster w/ a 400 and an offenhauser intake, and that truck gets beat and still doesn't leak! Granted that engine uses a valley pan and is quite a bit different than an SBC... When I took the intake off a customers ZZ4 to put a TPI base on, it had grey rtv on the block rails, so the stuff must work!

------------------
-Jason M. 1991 Camaro Z28

 

So I should take the valve covers off and just loosen the rockers?

As for the manifold leak....should I just try putting some on the back of the manifold and see if it seals it?

 

You can try that, I would first wipe it down with alcohol.
It will probably still leak.
I never use the gaskets; you do have to lay a 1/4" bead down. If you move the intake a little bit this can cause it to mess up the seal.

 

I have never used the front and rear intake seals. I always lay a nice thick bead of sealant, let it tack up nicely and then lay the intake in flat and straight down. Most mechanics will tell you to throw those seals away. Never had a leak yet!

------------------
Rob P
89RSconvtZZ4TPI
Edelbrock Hi-Flow Intake
SLP Dual Cold Air Intake
1 5/8" Headers
Semi-Siamesed Runners
MSD6AL/AdjFPR/IROC frnt@rear swaybar/wonderbar/steeringbox/alum drvshaft/ Alston SFC/3:23posi disc rear/MAC LCA/H.Adams Panhard Rod/KYB struts/ shocks/
92Z28convt5spd
71Impala convt 402BB
BETTER DRIVING THRU SUPERIOR HORSEPOWER!

 

Here is what I did on my 90 L98. I took every rocker and tightened them to almost zero lash. Then I got a flat piece of CLEAN cardboard with no straggles on the edge, and placed it tight flush with the bottom of the valves so the oil would squirt up to the cardboard, and fall back into the head. With the engine running, I then adjusted every rocker by tightening/loosening each rocker until I heard a tap tap tap. When I heard the tap I tightened it right until it it stopped. From there I tightented one full turn. You may want to go 3/4 of a turn or 1 1/4, depending on what you read.
Hope this helps.


------------------
Fredzep
90 GTA 350 5Spd
TPIS, SLP, Borla, K&N Mods

 

Whoever told you to use the gaskets on the front and rear of the intake on your SBC engine is either not very knowledgeable with SBC's, an idiot, or is playing a very nasty trick on you. You NEVER use those things. They NEVER seal as well as silicone - as long as the silicone is done correctly.

The surfaces need to be spotless and final cleaning should be done with an alcohol or acetone soaked rag (brake clean works well). Then you have to put a good thick 1/4 to 1/2" bead on the block, front and rear. You should run the silicone up onto the heads 1/2" or so to ensure everything seals together properly. Then I always put a very thin coat on the intake itself on the front and back where it will meet the silicone on the block when you set the intake down onto the engine. This practice of using a little silicone on the intake and the large bead on the block was showed to me by a guy that I worked with at a Chevrolet dealership when I got my first intake gasket comeback. He's been wrenchin for about 20 years at various GM dealerships. Once I adopted his way of doing intake gaskets, I never had a comeback on them (never had one leak). He told me that even if a foreign object gets between the two silicone coated surfaces while installing the intake, it won't leak. The silicone will surround the debris and seal it into the silicone bead itself, allowing the silicone to adhere to the engine componants properly. This makes complete sense and I don't know why it is not printed in every service manual created.

I also always use the light grey GM silicone on every intake gasket I do with great results. It is likely made by permatex or some other large sealer company so other light grey silicones are probably the same product. I also have friends that have good luck using the permatex ultra black....

As far as yoru rockers go...... I have the Crane Gold series self aligners on mine. I use the method of getting to #1 TDC and doing half of the intake and exhaust rockers and than rotating it to #6 TDC (one full turn on of the crank) and doing the other half of the rockers. This is the procedure that most service manuals have in them and it is the one I have used on every SBC I have come across with great results. I set them at 1/2 turn past zero-lash which I find by tightening the rocker just until the pushrod won't spin easily with a finger and thumb. Then I give them a 1/2 turn and lock them down.

When I have used this method on new engines I find it necessary to give them another 1/8 to 1/4 turn after they have broken in fully. On a used engine you should be fine with a half turn past zero-lash.

I hope that helps some. I worked for three years at a Chev dealer and I have done these procedures a lot so if ya want you can Email me for any more info.

Good Luck..... Laterzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

------------------
1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, K+N cone, AFPR, TB bypass, AirFoil, !AIR, !A/C, !EVAP, ARAP, 2300 stall.

"Stop Lights timed for 35Mph are also timed for 140Mph"

 

So what would the engine do if I overtightened the rockers a bit? Right now it idles really rough and doesnt accelerate pass 1/4 throttle very well. I noticed the driverside was making a strange sound so I took the valve cover off and loosened all of them until zero lash (wich is when the rod barely has any friction right?)I started the car and it idled 100% better by doing this. could the acceleration problem be because of the overtightening? Thanks guys for all your help so far but keep it comin

[This message has been edited by MATEOZ28 (edited June 18, 2001).]