My locking lugs were dealer installed and made by American Accessories. I have lost my key, but still have the registration card. Several years ago I had lost the key and was able to get a new one from them by sending in the card. Now, I can't seem to reach them. I'm guessing they're out of business. Does anyone know how to get hold of them?

If not, how does one get the locking lugs off without the key? I'm thinking of welding a nut or bar or something to the end of the lug so that I can apply some torque to it. Any other ideas? I've got a slow leak in one tire and need to get the wheel off as soon as possible.

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'87 IROC 5.7l TPI - original owner!

 

Well, When I went to get my tires balanced and rotated. I forgot my lock.. I dont know if its the same kind oof lock, But they said they could use and oversized socket and hit with a hammer. Causing the lock to break. Of course you would have to buy a new set... but you could get the lock off.... dont know if it helps.. but thats what i was told...

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92 Camaro 305 TBI Automatic. Everything stock so far except a shift kit.

Future mods. Spark plug wires and plugs, tint, new 3inch pipes. Maybe putting 2 glass paks for effect. any other advise on getting to 300+ HP would be appreciated. Thanks

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System = Sony explode CD/MD receiver, Rockford 6x9 Fanatics, 4x6 Clarion in the front, 2 12" Hx2's(Rockford) in custom box(black carpet) 1 farad cap, 800x2= 932 total watts Rockford Amp 4gauge wire kit.

 

vise grips

 

you can find a socket that is about the right size to fit in the lock pattern and drive it home with a hammer, you lose the socket as a socket, but gain a key. Had to do that for my mom's Jeep when she had a flat and the dealer had given her the wrong key.

Bob3

 

When I got my car it came w/ lock lugs...and no key, they got 3 of 'em off using the slightly oversize socket trick, but the last one just wouldn't come off. Luckily, I was at a truck tire shop, where they were used to having Truck lugs frozen on. They brought out a socket that had a reverse thread inside it, that was made of high carbon steel. It threaded itself on there as they hit reverse on the 1800 ft-lb impact wrench, and sure enough, after about 5 attempts, and 100 Gallon Air tank @ 100 psi, the last one came off Really gives you a warm fuzzy feeling about those lock lugs doesn't it...that most of 'em can be taken off w/ a slightly oversize socket...


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Corry Lazarowitz
clazarow@voicenet.com
clazarowitz@hotmail.com
1987 Pontiac Trans AM (GTA?) 350 or is it a 305?! TPI
SLP 1 3/4" headers, 3" cat back (stock cat
MSD ignition.
MSD Blaster SS coil.
3.73 Rear end gears
Accell 8.8 Wires
Bosh +4 Spark Plugs (Don't know if they really help but hell!)
Holley AFPR
Race Built Automatic trans ('vette servo, shift kit, tightly packed clutches)--just needs titanium gears now!
Newly gutted cat (the car gutted it's own cat!)
Hypertech Chip (Just found out I had it! :eek
More soon when funds are avail...

 

The vise grips will work if you can get them on the lock.

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~mike~86 IROC-Z

 

are you sure this is YOUR car?.... you probably have the same rims as I do,in which case you won't get a vise grip or an oversized socket in there. when I lost my lock,I went to the auto hobby-shop here at the shipyard, desperatly looking for answers. Jeff,one of the employees there, advised me to use a small sledge and a cold chisle (freshly sharpened). start an indent in the lock (corner),best to put it on the top in the most accessable place. do it roughly 45* CW of the most CCW place you can reach with the chisle. after a good indent is formed,begin to tap it in the CCW direction,taking care not to scratch the rim. this takes some patience and some skill,but with persistance you will turn the lock just enough to break the thread,until you can turn it by hand or use a flathead or some other tool that fits. one good blow is all it takes,you'll see it turn a little,the rest is cake. I used an air chisle for the last two,but try it by hand first,the air chisle is hard to control!! buy a new lock set and write the key number under the hood with grease pencil.

 

I had this happen once, and I grinded a groove in the lock nuts,(with a Dremel Etc.) and used a chisel, and hammer and tapped them counter clockwise to get them to unscrew. It worked for me.
Good luck
Mike

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Smokin 1989 GTA- Bone stock except for exhaust. (no catalytic-stainless pipe into Flowmaster 2 chamber).

 

Try some of the other methods mentioned above, but before you do; tighten the other four lugs extra tight around 150 ft/lbs. With the extra force on the other lugs, pressure should be relieved from the lock; thus making it easier to remove with vise-grips, chisel, socket, ect.

Also some penetrating lubricant would probably help also.

[This message has been edited by bigvic (edited June 18, 2001).]

 

Thanks, everyone.

I got them off, though. Heres how:

I found a socket that was slightly smaller than the nut. I was able to drive it onto the end of the nut (about 3/8" or so - could have gone farther). The socket cut into the nut enough to grab "ahold". It held well enough to break the nuts loose. Once I gut each nut off, I was able to knock it out of the socket with a bolt placed through the square drive hole.

So, other than McGard, who makes quality wheel locks?

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'87 IROC 5.7l TPI - original owner!