need a bit more info to even make a WAG let alone an informed opinion

 

well... lol, that said all but nothing, sorry man.

Since we're here to help, how about you tell us how much HP you want to make (or how much you want to spend, but not both), and the powerband that you want to play in.

Also, what the engine is going to be used for (auto-x, drag, street/strip, weekend warrior, etc) then maybe we can help you get on the right foot

 

 

Ok... rant here... Pet Peeve of mine... Its not a stall converter, but a torque converter w/ a stall rating of 2500...

OK back to the post... Go ahead and double to triple that $1500 number. 300-350 to the wheels is gonna take a little more than that. I spent almost $4000 on everything for mine. TPI is going to be harder to make the 350 number. W/ modified TPI easier, but still. Need a good intake and headers w/ good heads and a decent sized cam to make that...

 

 

do you already own the heads?

for the price of all of that work, you can buy pre-modded Vortecs...

 

headers - 600
high-flow catalytic converter - 80
cat-back - 200

that's half of your "engine build" money right there. Like I said, either give us an amount you want to spend OR horsepower rating you want to get... but not both. 1500 and 300RWHP just wont happen. Not unless you're just going to get like a 200 shot of nitrous and hope the bottom end doesnt break to pieces.

 

 

You're not going to get even close to 300RWHP with "mildly ported" heads.

Those 416 heads will need extensive porting, both intake and exhaust. Don't be shy here. Go to 1.94x 1.60 valves
Open the ports right up. Deshroud the chamber around the valves. They will flow, but need a full on port job.

The long runner stock TPI manifold is going to kill it too.

A Modified LT-1 intake manifold will cure that.

 

OK, one item at a time, let's compare it to to stock TPI 350. Let's call it a 230 HP baseline.

Engine Block Casting 638 - no extra HP there
4 Bolt Mains - no extra HP there
Bored .030 - 5 CID; about 3 HP there
Magnafluxed - no HP
Shot Peened(sp?) - no HP
Hot Tanked - no HP

So far it's looking alot like a very standard ordinary rebuild on a truck block.

Head Casting 144014416 - smaller chambers; higher compression; a few HP. Let's say, 15.
3 Angle Valve Job - same as stock; no increased HP there
Mild Porting on Intake Side - who knows what that means? Let's assume it means that the intake is properly blended with the intake valve, and that it flows a little better than the stock L98 heads would. Let's say, 10 HP.
Machined for Screw in Rocker Studs - no HP there
1.94 Intake Valves - same as stock, no HP there

TRW Forged Flat Top Pistons with 4 Valve Reliefs - lower compression height than stock; you lose some compression. In fact you lose near about as much as you gained with the smaller heads. So, -15 HP
Reconditioned GM Rods - no HP there

Still Need:
oil pan gasket - no HP
oil pump - no HP

and so on

sensors
timing chain
timing chain cover
cam
cam retaining plate
lifters
lifter retainer
pushrods
intake gasket
head gasket
valve cover gasket
valve covers
main bearings
connecting rod bearings
screw in rocker studs
rear main seal
crankshaft

no HP in any of that, except the cam. Which, a poor selection there, will easily give you less HP than a stock one.


Looks to me, you'll be lucky to come out with 240 HP at the crank, if the cam is chosen correctly (no "Performer Plus", or similar mistakes). That's about 180-190 to the wheels.

Reality bites sometimes.

 

heads/cam/intake

we just need the low-down and dirty on those. That, and what compression you're going to be making, and the cubes.

We know that you have 416 heads, which like F-BIRD'88 said, will need extensive porting (emphasis on extensive) to flow in the range you want for 300RWHP.

You really are screwed with TPI, you have no choice but a cam/intake that will have a powerband between idle - 4500. That'll require no stall converter, the stocker will do just fine.

You could always put LT1 intake on your list of things to get, and that will open up a whole new world for yah. Then you have a fun car to toy with.

I'd strongly suggest fitting an LT1 intake in the budget if you are serious about toying with the engine, and keeping it Fuel Injected. Then you can get a valvetrain for like 2500 - 7200RPM. Then a torque converter for it.

I get the idea that you are just saying that you have 1500 to toy with JUST the engine, the others have a budget of their own. This helps a bit.

Having the machine work done for the heads will probably cost like 400 tops (and you port them yourself).

Block prep work probably be around 500 assuming you assemble it yourself.

that's 900, and you're almost done. Then just buy a LT1 intake for about 250 (IIRC, check www.lt1intake.com for real price). At 1150.

Then a cam/lifters, possibly pushrods, new valvesprings, and rockers. for 350 dollars might be pushing it, and possible you might have to spend another hundred, but you should have a good running motor that just needs a little tuning to get you to 13's I would think.

After that, it's all suspension work that'll get you the rest of the way

 

I'd go with HSR over the LT1 intake. Like others have said 300 whp is a little more than your current setup can produce.

 

 

hey guys i have relitivly the same setup just carbed but i really ported my 416 heads. it's taken me 3 weeks but i got it done. so i got the 1.94 vavles and all. running a edlebrock perfomer manifold. with holley 750 vs completly rebuild bottom end
crane cams gold 1.5 roller rockers springs good up to .600 hooker comp. shortie headers cam specs are

Small Block Chev Elgin Hydraulic Camshaft .480" intake lift, .480 exhaust lift Dur. @ .050 230 degrees intake, 230 degrees exhaust 109 lobe center Lopey Idle. Good power from 3000 to 6000 RPM

thats all for the perfomance mods you think i'll be close to 300 rwph. maybe proablly n0t though

 

A dual pattern cam with more lift would help.

 

That old "Stage 2" cam sucks. Been sucking since the 70s. Hasn't gotten any better with age. Even back 30 years ago, there were cams that either produced the same or more power without the "big cam" hassles; or that produced HUGELY more power, with the same level of "big cam" hassle. Those old cams give you all the "big cam" problems and few of the benefits, compared to newer designs.

Use a modern cam design. Your car will be faster, more driveable, and use less gas, all at the same time.

 

how about comp cams magnum seris 270 230/230 .480/.480 with 110 lsa power band form 2000-6000

 

The same cam with a slightly wider LSA?

 

newer design though so maybe diffren't ramps and such. has a much wider power band with a slightly bigger lsa so maybe it's a better choice

 

The Magnum cam is CONSIDERABLY different from the Elgin one. Very differently shaped lobes. Notice for example, the old "Stage 2" cam is 292° @ .006"; but the Magnum is 280° @ .006". That should tell you something about the "shape" of the cam, right there.

There's more to picking a cam than just the one duration spec, and the peak lift. Those are just the tip of the iceberg. They do not, by any means, completely characterize a cam.

However, the XE274 (same intake duration ... i.e., the same level of "big cam" behavior, if you've decided that 230° is your level of tolerance) will make 20-30 HP more in most build-ups, than the Magnum; which will probably beat the "Stage 2" by about that same amount.

That's why we don't run old cams any more, if we want to have a chance of winning races against people who know what they're doing. We also don't pick cams based on their "sound"; unless this is a trailer-queen show car, designed to impress 8-year-old boys in parking lots by sheer square inches of chrome. You know, the same type of people who are impressed by a "loud" exhaust, who think it sounds "good" just because it's loud, even if it's a only 305 2-barrel missing its muffler.

If you've got stock heads, you REALLY need to be looking at cams with bigger exhaust lobes than the intakes. If you want a clue, even GM has figured that out; look at the ZZ4 cam as an example.

 

thread hijackers make me sick.

this thread has no point anymore because i decided maybe i should make smaller threads about certain areas of the build.
look for those threads if you want to help but dont bring the stuck up attitude that developed here.

come and be useful and polite because i said i dont know anything about building engines and you should expect me not to know that i need to tell this or that, or dont come at all.

 

I read through a bunch of posts every day, hundreds in a given week, so I have difficulty recalling what each one is about w/o reading through the whole thing. Therefore, since you've deleted all of your posts, I don't recall exactly what you asked in the beginning, but have a vague idea based on reading what others have said in their responses.

I'd have to guess that you pulled engine performance numbers out of the air, rather than defining use and overall performance goals. And, you had a budget restriction that made most any goal unrealistic.

I understand frustration with thread hijacking, but get over it. If it gets out of line, we'll say/do something. I don't see anything particularly out of line here, but it's hard to say since your posts are all deleted now. Sift through and glean the info you're looking for - I can't guarantee your thread's purity. Sorry.

Now, since you've made this thread meaningless (you, not the hijackers), it's time to say goodbye...