need some help deciding what to buy...
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,989
Likes: 0
From: Calgary, AB
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
Engine: Turbo KA24DE
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 4.08 VLSD
need some help deciding what to buy...
Going to buy some parts tomorrow, and I just wanted to get some opinions, because I find the salesmen there to be less than helpful..
Well I've set aside 600 or so to spend on the car, and I want to know what's going to get me the most bang for my buck. And it just is not feasable for me to get a new engine right now, so I have to work with what I have.
I have: an 86 model LG4 with no computer controls. Open element air cleaner, ignition timing advanced to 8* from factory 4*, electric cutout, no cat, and that's about it.
So headers should be my first stop. I'm thinking headman shorties (remember, budget...) and some 1.6 rockers with new valve springs. What would you guys reccomend for valve springs? I can't cam it right now, but I hope to in a few months. So anyhow, after the headers, rockers and springs, what's the next thing I can do to make this thing a little more fun to drive? Remember, it is daily driven year round...
Thanks. I know this comes up a lot, and yes, I have done loads of research, now I just want some opinions...
Well I've set aside 600 or so to spend on the car, and I want to know what's going to get me the most bang for my buck. And it just is not feasable for me to get a new engine right now, so I have to work with what I have.
I have: an 86 model LG4 with no computer controls. Open element air cleaner, ignition timing advanced to 8* from factory 4*, electric cutout, no cat, and that's about it.
So headers should be my first stop. I'm thinking headman shorties (remember, budget...) and some 1.6 rockers with new valve springs. What would you guys reccomend for valve springs? I can't cam it right now, but I hope to in a few months. So anyhow, after the headers, rockers and springs, what's the next thing I can do to make this thing a little more fun to drive? Remember, it is daily driven year round...
Thanks. I know this comes up a lot, and yes, I have done loads of research, now I just want some opinions...
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From: Fairfield, Ca
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TBI
Transmission: WC-T5
IMO, a good set of weld in sfc's will make a world of difference. If we are talking about under the hood, best bang for the buck would be a Nitrous kit.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Comp 981's are good drop in factory replacement springs. I would get the matching retainers as well. If you get the 7° retainers, you can reuse the factory locks if you are careful. (I would just get all new hardware, retainers, locks, the works). Switch the valve stem seals over to Fel-Pro viton positive seals, if you have not already done so.
I would do full exhaust though, not just headers. Sure, a cut out is great, but it still has to breathe when the cut out is closed.
I would do full exhaust though, not just headers. Sure, a cut out is great, but it still has to breathe when the cut out is closed.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,989
Likes: 0
From: Calgary, AB
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
Engine: Turbo KA24DE
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 4.08 VLSD
Originally posted by Stekman
Comp 981's are good drop in factory replacement springs. I would get the matching retainers as well. If you get the 7° retainers, you can reuse the factory locks if you are careful. (I would just get all new hardware, retainers, locks, the works). Switch the valve stem seals over to Fel-Pro viton positive seals, if you have not already done so.
I would do full exhaust though, not just headers. Sure, a cut out is great, but it still has to breathe when the cut out is closed.
Comp 981's are good drop in factory replacement springs. I would get the matching retainers as well. If you get the 7° retainers, you can reuse the factory locks if you are careful. (I would just get all new hardware, retainers, locks, the works). Switch the valve stem seals over to Fel-Pro viton positive seals, if you have not already done so.
I would do full exhaust though, not just headers. Sure, a cut out is great, but it still has to breathe when the cut out is closed.
Originally posted by adambros
IMO, a good set of weld in sfc's will make a world of difference. If we are talking about under the hood, best bang for the buck would be a Nitrous kit.
IMO, a good set of weld in sfc's will make a world of difference. If we are talking about under the hood, best bang for the buck would be a Nitrous kit.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
If it smokes a bit at startup, thats almost always related to valve seals in less than desirable condition. As it sits, oil slowly drips down the valve stem and eventually gets to the chamber where it is burned on the first combustion cycles creating that ever adoring puff of blue smoke. Yep, replace the seals why you are under the springs.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,989
Likes: 0
From: Calgary, AB
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
Engine: Turbo KA24DE
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 4.08 VLSD
Originally posted by Stekman
If it smokes a bit at startup, thats almost always related to valve seals in less than desirable condition. As it sits, oil slowly drips down the valve stem and eventually gets to the chamber where it is burned on the first combustion cycles creating that ever adoring puff of blue smoke. Yep, replace the seals why you are under the springs.
If it smokes a bit at startup, thats almost always related to valve seals in less than desirable condition. As it sits, oil slowly drips down the valve stem and eventually gets to the chamber where it is burned on the first combustion cycles creating that ever adoring puff of blue smoke. Yep, replace the seals why you are under the springs.
Oh, and if it matters, sometimes (this has hppened like twice) I can make it smoke by revving it, but that's only if I do it in the first like 60 seconds after startup...
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Yep, valve seals and springs can be done with the heads on the engine.
A search will yeild more definite answers, basically, here's the run down:
1.) Remove the valve covers and deside which side you want to do first. I start with the driver side. Remove all the spark plugs for that side.
2.) You will need a method to hold the valves up while you remove the springs. The 2 ways suggested are compressed air and a length of nylon rope. With the compressed air, you will need a spark plug fitting. Once you get that, just thread it in, turn it on, and the valves will be pinned up for that particular cylinder. With the rope method, take a length of nylon rope (I used 3/8") and feed it in through the plug hole. Once you have a good portion of rope in, rotate the engine over by hand (I have a crankshaft socket that bolts to the 3 bolts on the balancer for this, other methods include using the crank pulley, and if you are REALLY careful, bumping it over). Either way, the piston will push the rope up and press it against the valves, physically preventing them from falling while you do the swap. Air is obviously faster and more convenient, but either method works.
3.) You will need a valve spring compressor tool. Because the heads are on the car, you will need one that uses leverage from the rocker stud. These are available from most parts stores, etc. With the valves forced closed, remove the rocker arm and pushrod (lay them on a towel, keep them clean). Take some paper towels, something and lay them around the bottom of the heads, covering all the tiny little holes that lead to the depths of the engine. This prevents the pesky little locks from falling into a place where you can't get them. A magnet is handy as well.
4.) Use the sprinc compressor and compress the springs. Use the magnet to retrieve the locks. Remember, there are 2 locks per valve spring. Once you do that, slowly release the spring compressor and remove the valve spring and retaining assembly. You will now see the valve seal. Yank the old garbage off now. If you got the positive seal design, apply a light coating of oil to them to help them slip on. The locking grooves on the valves can be sharp enough to damage the inner side of the seals, and that is bad. Slip the seal on and press it into place. Make sure it is firmly seated on the guide boss.
5.) Place the valve spring and retaining assembly back over the valve stem and use the compressor again to compress the spring. Place the locks back on the valve stem and release the compressor. The locks will get wedged back into place. I only depress the spring just far enough that the locks can rest on the retainer.
Do one cylinder at a time and you will keep things in order from where they came off.
That's the basics. There isn't too much more to it than that. Like said above, doesn't sound like much, but it's still a good chunk of work. Esp. if you use the rope-in-the-hole method.
With that, you can (and should) change the springs at the same time upon reinstallation.
A search will yeild more definite answers, basically, here's the run down:
1.) Remove the valve covers and deside which side you want to do first. I start with the driver side. Remove all the spark plugs for that side.
2.) You will need a method to hold the valves up while you remove the springs. The 2 ways suggested are compressed air and a length of nylon rope. With the compressed air, you will need a spark plug fitting. Once you get that, just thread it in, turn it on, and the valves will be pinned up for that particular cylinder. With the rope method, take a length of nylon rope (I used 3/8") and feed it in through the plug hole. Once you have a good portion of rope in, rotate the engine over by hand (I have a crankshaft socket that bolts to the 3 bolts on the balancer for this, other methods include using the crank pulley, and if you are REALLY careful, bumping it over). Either way, the piston will push the rope up and press it against the valves, physically preventing them from falling while you do the swap. Air is obviously faster and more convenient, but either method works.
3.) You will need a valve spring compressor tool. Because the heads are on the car, you will need one that uses leverage from the rocker stud. These are available from most parts stores, etc. With the valves forced closed, remove the rocker arm and pushrod (lay them on a towel, keep them clean). Take some paper towels, something and lay them around the bottom of the heads, covering all the tiny little holes that lead to the depths of the engine. This prevents the pesky little locks from falling into a place where you can't get them. A magnet is handy as well.
4.) Use the sprinc compressor and compress the springs. Use the magnet to retrieve the locks. Remember, there are 2 locks per valve spring. Once you do that, slowly release the spring compressor and remove the valve spring and retaining assembly. You will now see the valve seal. Yank the old garbage off now. If you got the positive seal design, apply a light coating of oil to them to help them slip on. The locking grooves on the valves can be sharp enough to damage the inner side of the seals, and that is bad. Slip the seal on and press it into place. Make sure it is firmly seated on the guide boss.
5.) Place the valve spring and retaining assembly back over the valve stem and use the compressor again to compress the spring. Place the locks back on the valve stem and release the compressor. The locks will get wedged back into place. I only depress the spring just far enough that the locks can rest on the retainer.
Do one cylinder at a time and you will keep things in order from where they came off.
That's the basics. There isn't too much more to it than that. Like said above, doesn't sound like much, but it's still a good chunk of work. Esp. if you use the rope-in-the-hole method.
With that, you can (and should) change the springs at the same time upon reinstallation.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,989
Likes: 0
From: Calgary, AB
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
Engine: Turbo KA24DE
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 4.08 VLSD
Ok, thanks! That's a HUGE help. I'll go down there tomorrow and get all my stuff, and then go to work. And I'm in high school, so I can go into my shop and do that. Come to think of it, next week I will have about six hours in there to myself...
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