Hi Guys, when ever i hit a little bump in the road, my car goes all over the place, my friend says its because my tires are to big 245/50/16 all the way around, but thats standard on my car, i had an aliment done 3xs, the last 2xs they said it was fine, I had a little smaller tire on the front and it wasnt so bad. any ideals

------------------
1986 TPI 305 TRANS AM

 

i run the same size tires on my t/a and have only experienced handling problems (loose) because my shocks, struts and springs are really worn out.

 

The idler arm is usually the culprit here.
They have a tedancy to die after 20K miles when you run wide tires on them. They only cost ~$30, so it's a cheap repair...

------------------
http://www.havemann.com/lee/firebird.html
1989 Firebird Formula, WS6 Package
ZZ4 Crate engine, Accel 24 pound injectors, Accel Superram intake, Accel Large tube runners
SLP 58 mm throttlebody, Edelbrock TES headers, SLP 3" SS exhaust, Random Tech 3" hi flow cat
700R4 trans w/ vette 2/4 shift servo, worked valve body, kevlar band, 2200 rpm stall converter
Borg Warner 9 bolt rear (full poly mounts) Hotchiss panhard rod, Lakewood LCA's, Spohn subframe connectors, custom chip.

 

new shocks and strut, tie rods and idler arm with in the last year, still same problem, tires are balance eagles around 10k on them

 

I had the same problem and when checking front end found my stabilizer links to be so thin they actually bent, $16.00 and a couple of broken knuckles later problem is all gone. I thought it was the shocks & struts also I replaced them still had the same problem, the car would be all over the place grabbing every little rut in the road and the front felt really "soft" over bumps and during braking.

 

I got the same size tires and experience the same thing. It seems to wander at slow speeds and when there's ruts worn into the asphalt. A little hairy sometimes but I had my whole front end done and my alignment checked twice so it must be in my head.

On fresh pavement it is as strait as an arrow and at high speeds it doesn't do it. Go figure

 

My car is exactly the same, I have 265's at the front, and I have just replaced the idler arm, and I am picking the car up tomorrow, I will tell you if it solved my problems..

 

Custman, i didnt notice anything bent under the front end but i dont know where the stablizer links are either, where abouts are they

 

Tom,

The stabilizer links are the little links that connect the ends of your sway bar to you control arms.

You mentioned that your tires are the right size for the car, which they are, but are the rims stock? More specifically, are they the stock off-set? Rims off set away from the center of the vehicle, will have a positive scrub radius, which will cause a noticable pull going over bumps.

The only other suggestion I have right now is this. Even though you have gotten several alignmeants, you could take it back on more time and have them dial in more (positive) caster. This will make your steering self center better, but make your "turn in" more sluggish. (not a big problem with our steering ratios) Going in the negative direction, or moving the top of the strut forward, will cause your car to "turn in" quicker better steering reponse) but the car will wander more. Caster is not a tire wear-causing alignment angle, you can obviously "custom" tailor it to suit your taste and not worry about tire wear.

[This message has been edited by Tom 400 CFI (edited July 06, 2001).]

 

tom,
i have the stock ws6 rims on them, i didnt think they had an offset, they dont have front or rear printed on them

 

Have you checked the rag joint at the bottom of the steering column where it connects to the steering gear? What about the gearbox itself? Does it have alot of play? If so, it might be able to be adjusted out.

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

I once tried to "adjust" the steering box play with the allen wench method. I adjusted too far and the car was all over the road. I backed it off some and it is now perfect. No more wondering.

BTW, adjusting did take some of the steering slop(play) away.

------------------
86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Raptor 700R4 Tranmission, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge G2's, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Hooker Cat-back, Serpentine Belt Setup, Dual IROC Fans, Jamex springs, 16" IROC Rims, 36mm/24mm Sway Bars, Global West Steering Brace. Hotchkis Rear LCA's,Panhard Bar and SFC's.
My Camaro Project