How difficult is it to replace the alternator in an '88 Camaro with the 5.0 TBI engine? It has the serpentine belt. This is a friend’s car. I’ve never owned a car with a serpentine belt setup, so this is new territory for me. Am I going to need any special tools? If any of you have done this, would you mind writing up a “How-to” (with photos if possible)? I would really appreciate it!

Thanks in advance.

 

should be pretty standard, loosen the serpentine belt with a ratchet, loosen bolts n remove alternator, replace alternator.

Only difficulty i can imagine is getting the screws/bolts loose, you might need vice grips or something of the sort. other than that simple task.

 

The big bolt that attaches the alt thru the bracket to the cyl head is a Torx head from the factory, so you'll need that size bit.

Remember to disconnect the battery before starting the swap, that big red wire connected to the single pole on the back of the alt is batt positive and will make a spark show if you ground it.

 

It's not very difficult at all.

First thing to do is disconnect the negative battery cable. Then remove the serpentine belt (You remove it by getting a 1/2" ratchet, and inserting it into the top part of the belt tensioner, which is located right next to the AC compressor. Pull the tensioner all the way back, and then the belt should become loose and can then be removed. Make sure the belt routing diagram sticker is still located on the radiator support before removing the belt, if it's not their, draw your own diagram before removing the belt), then remove the 2 electrical connections from the back of the alternator, remove the bolt that attaches the small brace to the back of the alternator (as well as the nut that attaches it to an exhaust manifold stud), then just remove the 2 Torx bolts that hold the alternator to the bracket, and it should pull right out.

Installation of the new alternator is the opposite. I can get pictures if you want, just let me know what you need pictures of, and I'll see what I can do.

 

In the picture below the idler pulley (the one pushing down on the belt) is attached to the idler arm (painted green) which is spring loaded to provide tension. If you look close you'll see a square hole at the top of the idler spring housing, it will accept a 1/2" drive rachet, or breaker bar, turn it counter-clockwise to relieve the tension. The belt routing diagram should be on a sticker on the hood, or radiator.
If you forget how it came off, and don't have a diagram, just remember that the belt has a smooth side, and a ribbed side, of all the pulleys only the idler, and water pump pulley have smooth surfaces, so route the belt so that the belt surface matches the pulley.

I have seen people try to force the alternator back in.
FYI; Once the alternator is out look at the hole on the front of the bracket that the Torks bolt passes through, you'll see a bushing (a short piece of tubing) in the hole. With a hammer tap the bushing so that it moves toward the radiator, this will allow the alternator to drop in, and makes it easier to align the alternator hole with the bolt. Happy wrenching

 

Thanks to everyone for the advice. The photo helped a lot, rgarcia63. I told my brother I would try to get to it this weekend unless it rains.

His car was dead--no lights, nothing--so I jumped started it, and it cranked immediately when the cables were connected to both the positive and negative terminals of the dead battery (I know, the negative should be grounded to the engine block of the car with the dead battery, but it just wasn't getting enough power to turn the car over).

Anyway, when I removed the booster cables in reverse order, the car immediately cut off. This happened each time (3) I did it. That indicates it must be the alternator, right? Just wanted to make sure before I have him buy a new one.

Three more questions--what's a good alternator brand. I know to stay away from AutoZone. Would one from Advance or PepBoys be good?

Also, when he had PepBoys replace the serpentine belt years ago I seem to remember they said something about the belt tensioner being messed up so they had to use a special tool to replace the belt. Can the tensioner be damaged?

Lastly, what do I torque the tensioner to after everything is back together?

Thanks.

 

A problem like you described is generally a bad alternator. Did you happen to watch the volt gauge in the dash when you jump-started it and when it cut off? Just curious what the volt gauge was reading.

As for a good alternator brand, it's really up to you, and your wallet. There are generally 2 kinds, reman. (remanufactured, which means it has some new parts) and brand new, which is of course a brand new, all new parts alternator. Obviously, the remans are cheaper than the new ones. I wish I had a suggestion for you for a brand, but I cheaped out when I had to replace mine .
Doesn't sound like the guys at Pep Boys knew what they were talking about. The "special tool" you need just a 1/2" ratchet, like mentioned earlier. But, tensioners do go bad over time. I couldn't really tell you the symptoms of a bad tensioner, though.

There is no torque to set on the belt tensioner. Spring tension is what holds the tensioner assembly on the belt.

 

Typically you should get an OEM replacement alternator. This would be an AC Delco model that you can find at most of any of the auto parts stores. I'd get it from NAPA if you could. They have better quality parts than Advaced Auto or Autozone as has been my experience.

If the budget allows, get a brand new AC Delco model. If not then get a remanufactured AC Delco model. Remember though, the remanufactured one certainly wont last as long as a new one, so in the end, you will be spending more on alternators if you cheap out now...

but since this is your brothers' car, who cares