I just bought a used Edlebrock intake and one of the bolts is seized in the thermostat housing area. I have about 1/4" of bolt showing out of the hole, but it has to be in there pretty good since the bolt head gave before it came out. Does anybody have any suggestions for me, as to how I should go about getting it out of there?

Thanks

 

Get an Easy-out. They should have them at a Home Depot near you, or an auto parts store. You use a titanium drill bit (dont know if its included) and drill a hole in the bolt, hammer in the easy out, and turn the easy out with a wrench. its easy.

 

I got the easy outs. I didn't think it would work because the bolt has to be seized in there pretty good for the bolt head to snap off. I was just worried about the easy out breaking off in the bolt hole. Should I cut the bolt flush with the intake before I try to drill a hole in it or should I just leave the 1/4" sticking up?

Thanks

 

If you are going to try the easy out, you want to cut the bolt flush before removing...if not, the bolt will just spread apart when you try to turn it out.

If its in there that good, I'd cut your possible headaches and just go buy a helicoil kit, make sure you have a nice centered pilot hole and just drill and re-tap the hole, install new threads and be done.

I've had no luck in the past with broken bolts and aluminum manifolds...I just go for the helicoil.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R
and 2 POS commuters...

R.I.P. #3
"He can see air"

 

What does the helicoil do exactly? If I drill out the bolt and then tap the hole, how come I should use a helicoil, instead of just putting a bolt in the hole I just tapped?

Sorry if I sound like an idiot, this just sucks and I want to do it right the first time.

Thanks

 

The act of extracting the bolt almost always damages the threads. Additionally, the electrolytic reaction that rusted through the bolt in the first place, has also corroded the aluminum where it was in contact with the iron.

If the metal that should exist to create threads from is missing, then you can't very well tap a bunch of air and expect it to hold a bolt.

A Heli-coil is a replacement thread. It looks like a little spring wound out of square wire. You drill the hole out to some larger size (exposing clean, fresh, undamaged metal), tap it with the special tap that comes with the kit, and screw the insert into the tapped threads. It's unbelievably effective.

To keep it from happening again, use stainless bolts there; make certain that the gasket seals, even "edgewise" (that is, so that water can't seep through the gasket from the inside edge to the outside edge, even if it's seaed against the intake and housing); and put some anti-sieze or thick grease on the bolt threads.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

I will buy the helicoil kit this weekend and try it out.

Thanks to everyone who responded.

 

Is it sticking up enough to get some vise grips on it? I had something like this to happen before and I just took a torch and heated the bolt. I then took vise grips and clamped it as tight as possible. Then I could turn it little by little until it came out. It does work on aluminum, too. If that doesn't work the easy outs should definitely work.

 

Apply LOTS of heat with propane not acetalene. Acetalene will melt intake. Propane you takes alot before it gets that hot. Aluminum will expand more than steel and will allow bolt to come out MUCH easier.


[This message has been edited by brharris27370 (edited July 26, 2001).]

 

I have one of those propane torches, so that might be a good idea to try first, before I drill out the bolt. Well wish me luck.

 

I had this same problem about a month ago. I ended up learning the hard way

I cracked the ear on the intake off

Anyhow...don't use an easyout. I tried that and the bolt split and cracked the intake.

What you need to do is just keep drilling with bigger bits each time. Get it to where theres hardly nothing left then try a easyout. If that doesn't work you will have to take a punch and crack whats left of the old bolt in half.

I JB Welded my intake back together, ran a tap and its good as new.

I wouldn't curse anyone with having to go thru what I did.

Live and learn.



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Mike L.
It ain't pretty.......

1987 IROC Z TPI 350 A4 3.27 Borg-Warner.

Mods: 2300-2500 Stall Converter, Shift Kit(GM parts), TPI Specialties Stage 3 PROM, Modified Airbox w/ K&N's, homemade cold air, Relocated MAT sensor, Gutted MAF, 160* thermostat, MSD 6A, Accel 8mm Wires, bypassed TB coolant, Flowmaster 3 chamber single 3" in/out muffler, 3" MAC mandrel intermediate, custom dual !cat Y-pipe. airfoil, ported plenum. !smog

http://www.MichaelLasiuta.home.att.net

**BOYCOTT LAPEER DRAGWAY**

 

I removed a broken thermostat housing bolt
from from a Chrysler 3.1 manifold by welding
a 5/16" washer to the broken bolt, then
welding a 1/2" nut through its hole to the washer. After the nut cooled somewhat (to
prevent a fire) I sprayed the area under the bolt with a penetrating oil such as PB Blaster or Free All. After tapping the bolt
a few times with a small hammer, I unscrewed
it with a pair of Vise Grips.

 

I see a lot of easy outs broken off in things that come through my dad's shop. I would never use one. Another idea is to take a hacksaw or dremmel and cut a slot in the bit sticking out. Use a big straight slot screwdriver and clamp some vicegrips on it for more leverage. Spray some penetrating oil on the threads and wait a bit. When ready, put all your weight on the screwdriver then turn.

 

Ive got an old Weiand manifold in my garage that I had the same thing happen to. I tried vise grips and penetrating oil, no dice. I tried an easy out, it broke off in the bolt and added to the problem. I finally just gave up, bit the bullet and took it to a welding/machine shop and had the damn thing taken out. They charged me 23 dollars, and I had it back in less than a day. It never made its way onto my car, but I keep it as a back up.

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---Grady---
1984 Berlinetta.
LG4 305
Holley #1850 600 c.f.m. carb.
Edelbrock Performer intake.
TH-700R4 tranny.
Flowmaster 80 series/ 3" cat-back pipe.
Accel Superstock Coil.
7.5 10-bolt rear/ 3.08's.
Edelbrock Pro-flow air cleaner.
Pioneer head unit, Pioneer front 4X6's, Cerwin Vega rear 6x9's.
Daily Driver.

Personal Quote: "The Rice-Boys all tremble with fear when the old American V8 draws near."

 

there's some great ideas here..

i would put my money on trying to get the bolt out first without using an easy out..

spray the bolt numerous times with a synthetic lubricant.. WD-40 won't cut it, I use Valvoline or Dura-Lube..

let it soak in overnight, spray it again in the morning and then try to turn it out with Vise Grips.. if that doesn't work you I would heat up the intake around the bolt and see if it'll come out then with Vise Grips..

last resort is drilling it out and using helicoil..

some dumbass overtightened the bolts in my plenum before I got it and when I took off the distributor cover one of the bolts twisted off. I ended up using helicoil and now it works perfectly..

a tip for you to remember: EVERYTHING gets anti-sieze from now on. I use it on my spark plugs, plenum bolts, runnber bolts, everything. Also, never overtighten. For most things I use a stubby ratcher (3" handle) and I use that to tighten as tight as I can. Using that ratchet always makes sure things will be easy to assemble later.

Good luck man!
Colin

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Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org & www.GMPerformance.org

[This message has been edited by ColinOpseth (edited July 27, 2001).]