What Liter is this engine?
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From: Killingly, CT
Car: '82 Camaro Z28 (Former Pace car)
Engine: 85 5.7L Small Block
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 96 disc LT1 3.23 Auburn 10 bolt.
What Liter is this engine?
Im going to bore out my 305 to a 327 and i just wanna know the liter that is.....i know alot of ppl are just going to tell me its pointless to bore out a 305 but i dunno somethin about a 327 Tuned Port sounds nice...
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
It would be about 5.4 litres or so, but good luck boring out a 305 to a 327. You'd have to increase the bore by over 0.125".
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Re: What Liter is this engine?
Originally posted by Blue_IROC_86
Im going to bore out my 305 to a 327 and i just wanna know the liter that is.....i know alot of ppl are just going to tell me its pointless to bore out a 305 but i dunno somethin about a 327 Tuned Port sounds nice...
Im going to bore out my 305 to a 327 and i just wanna know the liter that is.....i know alot of ppl are just going to tell me its pointless to bore out a 305 but i dunno somethin about a 327 Tuned Port sounds nice...
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From: Orland Park, IL, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Im pretty sure the 302/327/350 blocks are all the same with a 4" bore. If you are going to do a bored 305, you might as well play it safe and do it right. stroke it with a 400 crank and bore it .030 over. That makes it like a 331. The problem is that you just took a motor with a poor bore to stroke ratio and made it worse. The smaller bore of the 305 is a PITA because your valves are still shrouded more then on a 4" bore block. I just picked up a 4 bolt 010 350 block a couple days ago for $40. If you can find a 350 block for under $100, it just doesnt make sense to build a 305. Why start with a bad foundation when it doesnt cost much more to step up to a better block?
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Pointless isn't the point. Possible is.
In order to get 327 cid with a 3.48" stroke, you're looking at a 3.867" bore. That's 0.131" more than a stock bore 305. That's also about twice what you can typically safely bore a stock 305 block casting.
For the record, a stock bore 305 with 3.75" stroke is 328.9 cid.
In order to get 327 cid with a 3.48" stroke, you're looking at a 3.867" bore. That's 0.131" more than a stock bore 305. That's also about twice what you can typically safely bore a stock 305 block casting.
For the record, a stock bore 305 with 3.75" stroke is 328.9 cid.
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
I wish people would stop thinking they can make a 305 into a performance engine like the 4" bore SBC blocks. Yes a 305 can make a lot of power if you throw a lot of money at it but it's so much easier with a 4" bore block to start with.
It's like a 400 SBC and a 396 or 402 BBC. Bore and stroke are almost identical. The BBC weighs slightly more. Both in stock form produce about the same amount of power however the BBC because of the better/larger heads can easily out perform the SBC for the same amount of money spent on upgrades.
I was always under the impression that a 305 with a 400 crank would make 334 CID. Normally you're always going to do at least a .030 overbore like building a 383 from a 350.
It's like a 400 SBC and a 396 or 402 BBC. Bore and stroke are almost identical. The BBC weighs slightly more. Both in stock form produce about the same amount of power however the BBC because of the better/larger heads can easily out perform the SBC for the same amount of money spent on upgrades.
I was always under the impression that a 305 with a 400 crank would make 334 CID. Normally you're always going to do at least a .030 overbore like building a 383 from a 350.
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From: Ajax, ON
Car: 85Z28 87GTA 91GTA 98SS
Engine: SBC, LS-x
Transmission: T-5, 700-R4, T-56
Never mind the LSx engines breathing down the BBC's kneck.
Times they are a changin'
O'l Bob Dillan sung that. No words could be more true to this subject at hand.
Times they are a changin'
O'l Bob Dillan sung that. No words could be more true to this subject at hand.
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by Stephen 87 IROC
I was always under the impression that a 305 with a 400 crank would make 334 CID. Normally you're always going to do at least a .030 overbore like building a 383 from a 350.
I was always under the impression that a 305 with a 400 crank would make 334 CID. Normally you're always going to do at least a .030 overbore like building a 383 from a 350.
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From: Orland Park, IL, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Originally posted by HalfInchWrench
Never mind the LSx engines breathing down the BBC's kneck.
Never mind the LSx engines breathing down the BBC's kneck.
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From: Brooks, AB Canada
Car: 82 Firebird
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: 3 speed auto
there is a 388 on an engine stand in my garage. i bought a 350 (the entire motor) so i have a lot of internals from it. when i take out my 305, will the used crank from the 350 fit in the 305?
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Off-topic, but "fit" - yes. "Work properly" - no - not properly balanced.
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From: Upstate New York
Car: 1988 SC Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
88blkiroc, Hey
88blkiroc, I would be affraid to open up your hood...that red scorpion on your engine looks like it could be dangerous...
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From: Ahead of you...
Car: 1984 LG4 Camaro
Engine: 350 Roller Motor
Transmission: Level 10 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange 12 bolt 3.42
1L - 61ci
Considering the price of quality machine work, it is almost not worth it to do anything to a 305 besides a .030" cleanup or a 334ci stroker. The Bore is too small to fit really good flowing heads and there are not too many pistons available (most of them are cast or hyper).
You can buy a ZZ4 short block for $2k..... just need heads, valvetrain, and oil pan.... other 305 parts will bolt up (most of them anyway).
Considering the price of quality machine work, it is almost not worth it to do anything to a 305 besides a .030" cleanup or a 334ci stroker. The Bore is too small to fit really good flowing heads and there are not too many pistons available (most of them are cast or hyper).
You can buy a ZZ4 short block for $2k..... just need heads, valvetrain, and oil pan.... other 305 parts will bolt up (most of them anyway).
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From: Orland Park, IL, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Re: 88blkiroc, Hey
Originally posted by Crusin' 1980's
88blkiroc, I would be affraid to open up your hood...that red scorpion on your engine looks like it could be dangerous...
88blkiroc, I would be affraid to open up your hood...that red scorpion on your engine looks like it could be dangerous...
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From: kissimmee fl
Car: 88 iroc-z z-28
Engine: 383
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 3.42
88blkiroc Im pretty sure the 302/327/350 blocks are all the same with a 4" bore. If you are going to do a bored 305, you might as well play it safe and do it right. stroke it with a 400 crank and bore it .030 over. That makes it like a 331. The problem is that you just took a motor with a poor bore to stroke ratio and made it worse. The smaller bore of the 305 is a PITA because your valves are still shrouded more then on a 4" bore block. I just picked up a 4 bolt 010 350 block a couple days ago for $40. If you can find a 350 block for under $100, it just doesnt make sense to build a 305. Why start with a bad foundation when it doesnt cost much more to step up to a better block?
where did u get blocks for that cheap? please tell me
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
350 blocks are a dime a dozen, they aren't hard to find for $100 or less.
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From: Upstate New York
Car: 1988 SC Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
400 = 6.6L
Actually, I think the 400 CI is a 6.5 Litre, not a 6.6 (at leaste the 67 goat was a 6.5 Litre, and that had a 400 small block in it...the XXX car)
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
1977 Pontiac Trans am, 6.6 TA on the cowl. 400 Poncho.
400 sb chev is same cubes so.....
Unless they were rounding up like the ford 302...
400 sb chev is same cubes so.....
Unless they were rounding up like the ford 302...
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From: Kissimmee, FL
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 357cid
Transmission: T5 Swap
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 7.5" 3.23 soon to be 3.73
Originally posted by Air_Adam
350 blocks are a dime a dozen, they aren't hard to find for $100 or less.
350 blocks are a dime a dozen, they aren't hard to find for $100 or less.
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
here in Kissimmee you'd be lucky to find a 350 block
Every time I walk into a boneyard anywhere in the country that I've lived, there's about 300 Chevy trucks in it. PRACTICALLY EVERY ONE from 69 to 95 has a 350 in it. Probably 85-90% of them. There are literally millions and millions of those things around.
Last time I was in the Orlando area, about 1 in 10 vehicles on the road outside of the tourist areas, was a Chevy pickup. (About another one in 10 was a F*rd pickup). It is BEYOND UNBELIEVABLE that there are no junk 350s in your area. My daughter is going down there this afternoon; I'll ask her to report back on the situation, and see if anything has changed.
Don't make up lame excuses for doing something stupid and lazy. Put your brain and your motivation in gear.
Originally posted by kowboy59
well can u tell me where.
well can u tell me where.
All Foreign and Domestic Used Auto Parts USA-FL(Orlando) E-mail 1-800-901-2186
Don't take the prices the site lists as the gospel, call the listed shops near you and negotiate for just the longblock or shortblock as your needs dictate.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
maybe he meant 350 - 4 bolts
but yea, 350s are dime a dozen everywhere..
but yea, 350s are dime a dozen everywhere..
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From: Kissimmee, FL
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 357cid
Transmission: T5 Swap
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 7.5" 3.23 soon to be 3.73
yes.. 4 bolt 350s are hard to find... i was lucky to find one from my teacher..... if you daughter reports more than i had found dont hesitate to let me know.
oh and orlando is 1hr away from me and half a pint of trans fluid( bad leak) so i was really focusing my search to within 30-45 from me
oh and orlando is 1hr away from me and half a pint of trans fluid( bad leak) so i was really focusing my search to within 30-45 from me
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
It doesn't matter if the block is a 2 bolt or a 4 bolt. If you really think you need 4 bolts (probably not), you can machine any 2 bolt block to take a 4 bolt cap. A 2 bolt block can be machined for 4 bolt splayed caps too, which is stronger than a factory 4 bolt.
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From: Kissimmee, FL
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 357cid
Transmission: T5 Swap
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 7.5" 3.23 soon to be 3.73
i was really relying on a tight budget.... the splay conversions are pretty expensive... about as much as i payed for my block.... but yea i suppose if i had the extra money i could go two bolt to 4 conversion..... or how bout 6 bolt!!!! anyways, whats done is done
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
I don't know what your definition of "tight budegt" is; but if you don't have enough "budget" to go get a 350 block, you don't have enough "budget" to do that other stupider thing either. And if you're planning on something where you think your 350 would have to be 4-bolt, I doubt a 2-bolt 305 would be a wise place to sink $$wheelbarrows full of money$$ on that kit.
A factory 4-bolt setup won't do much of anything for a performance buildup. That's not what it's for. Don't worry about it. Just go get a 350 block, and be done with it; and put that other stupid thing out of your mind. It's an expensive detour down the dead-end road to disappointment and poverty.
A factory 4-bolt setup won't do much of anything for a performance buildup. That's not what it's for. Don't worry about it. Just go get a 350 block, and be done with it; and put that other stupid thing out of your mind. It's an expensive detour down the dead-end road to disappointment and poverty.
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From: Orland Park, IL, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Originally posted by kowboy59
where did u get blocks for that cheap? please tell me
where did u get blocks for that cheap? please tell me
4 bolt conversions are tough to do right, expecially splayed caps btw.
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From: Kissimmee, FL
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 357cid
Transmission: T5 Swap
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 7.5" 3.23 soon to be 3.73
my tight budget is basically $400 a month... half of which goes straight to my mom to help out w/ rent. most of the rest goes to gas and food....... i save what a i can and buy what i can
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From: Omaha, Ne
Car: It was a 90' firebird formula
Engine: It had 357 tbi
Transmission: Was 700r4 auto
Axle/Gears: Was 2.73
350 4-bolts
im going to school to be a machinist and ive got 6 350 4 bolts on my bench, there not hard to find, theres a place in WI were every 1 out of 2 blocks u pick out are 4 bolts and the complete motor is only $75. and one of my buddies has made 5 2 bolts into splayed mains, each one for less then $175.
Last edited by theMachinist; Apr 11, 2005 at 03:21 PM.
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