327 Large Journal(I'm using a 350 Block with a 327 crank) bored 60 over
Edelbrock Performer Cam
Edelbrock Performer Intake
Edlebrock Performer RPM Heads
MSD 6A Ignition
Windage Tray
Oil Valley Baffle Pan
Hooker Super Competition LT Headers
Aluminum Radiator
Electric Fan
Electric Fuel Pump
Holley Double Pumper with a Proform Main Body, flows 750+ according to Proform
Full Roller Rockers with a 1.6 Ratio
10.5:1 Compression

 

at least 350 horse maybe 375

 

I was hoping for the magic # of 400

 

You could with some quality head work (unshrouding the valves and good bowl work).
But an easy fix with a new strong motor would be a 100 shot of NOS.

 

With the performer cam? Correct me if I am wrong but isnt the lift on the performer cam something like .420/444? Even with 1.6 rr that cam sucks.If thats the cam you have I serously doubt 350hp. Look at one of the bigger comp XE cams. The XE274 and those RPM heads will make somewhere around 400hp. Youll need at loose stall and at least 3.73 gears though. Good Luck.

 

I would stay away from the performer camshaft. Edelbrock makes some pretty nice heads and intake manifolds but most of their cams are very tame.

You might want to look into spending just a little more and get some AFR heads. And a different cam.

 

I'm 16 and thats all I could afford. It originally had stock heads so I'm pretty happy now actually. I may be looking into a comp cam one of these days. But as the car is now it has enough power to set anybody back against the seat and get me an exhibition of speed ticket that cost me $330 which I was actually going to buy a comp cam with that money

 

Would there be anything wrong with running my performer manifold still if I got a cam with .480/.480? What increases do you think I would see if I put an air gap manifold on?

edit:this is my daily driver so I can't get to extreme especially when I already have to run premium and can only afford to drive a few days a week. Plus I need something that runs that I don't always have to **** with everyday.

 

If your having no problems as of now. It idles nice with good accecleration dont **** with it ..
Enjoy it and be careful. It takes alot of time to get to know your car and how to handle it under hard acceleration . My first trans am had a 305 and now that I look back Im glad that it was as slow as it was because I probably would have totaled it or killed my self if it was as strong as my car is now.

If its not broke dont fix it.. when you get two rides and can afford to have one down then go the cam swap route just my Rob

 

HAHAHAHAHAH I already wrecked my Berlinetta and just put the engine in my IROC. Going around a corner I pinned the gas in 3rd gear(car was only a 4sp) and the back end slid completely out and sent me doing a few cookies in the road and ended up in a ditch. I was originally going to put a better cam in but somebody talked me out of it saying that the more high performance stuff you have in it, the worse its going to run.

 

Only when your parts are mismatched.
What gears are you running ?

 

OK, I give you 408 hp. Happy now?

My guess is no more/less accurate than anyone else's.

 

You'll find that some people here are quite honest about these HP guesses that people ask for all the time; and some other people will just stroke the questioner's ego. You'll also find that if you post a pic of a motor with fresh paint and some chrome parts (the bigger the parts, the better..... oil pans and timing covers and valve covers have this effect more than water outlets or bolt heads) that you'll increase the 2nd type of people's guesses, sometimes to the point of being laughable.

Personally I wouldn't waste the money on gaskets and fluids to build, and be disappointed by, the combo you're posting. It's nothing but one mismatch after another. The cam is what is commonly referred to as a "RV cam"; it's set up for low RPM grunt, works well in an application with very low compression and very poor flow. It will NOT work well with compression over about 9:1 on modern gas; the motor will ping and detonate mercilessly. 10½:1 is completely out of the question with that cam. The carb would be OK for a 7000 RPM screamer; but the cam and intake will prevent it from making any power past about 4500 RPM, if that. And so forth.

I notice you don't post any piston specs. If that's because you don't have any yet, STOP RIGHT WHERE YOU ARE and get a 350 crank instead, and pistons for that instead of the shorter stroke, and get your other 25 or so HP. Cubic inches are the cheapest HP you can possibly buy.

Next, if there's any way to get rid of that pitiful cam, DO IT. Get a Comp XE262, or a Crane of roughly similar specs (I think that would be their Powermax 272), or maybe one of the new Lunati Voodoo cams if they have one like that yet.

If you really want 400 HP, you'll need a different intake as well. That Performer is basically a stock replacement. Consider a Performer RPM, or maybe a ZZ4 one off ebay or something.

With flat-top pistons and the combo you posted, I'd be REAL surprised to see 260 HP; and you'll hate driving it every second of its life. With high-dome pistons like you'll have to have to get the compression you claim, you'll hate it even worse, and it won't run AT ALL on pump gas. With a flat-top 350, the heads you have (which are a good foundation for a strong street motor), a cam like I posted, and a more approporiate intake, you should be able to get to up around 350-360 HP. But at this point, 400 HP out of what you've got, is a pipe dream. Ain't going to happen. Not even close.

Ignore me if all you're looking for is people to stroke your ego; and post a pic of a motor with lots of chrome to get all those folks who are easily distracted by shiny things into it.

 

As usual, RB doesn't beat around the bush....

He (RB), gave me decent advice when I built mine, and I asked for his input because I knew he'd "been there done that". The dyno numbers posted in my sig are REAL flywheel numbers. It's not the 400 RWHP I'd hoped for, but not shabby either. Not all dynos read the same either...there's no special calibration these shops with dynos have to comply with either AFAIK.

But nonetheless - the torque puts a smile on my face every time I nail it! (Till I look at my gas gauge).....

EDIT: One thing - If you really want good numbers, that 400 will need to breath, and I can tell you that shortie headers and Hooker catback isn't really good enough. At least on mine. I just don't want to deal with low hanging long tube headers on the street - I've been there and done that in the past myself...

 

I had shortie headers but I took them off. Right now its straight headers. Hooker Super Comp Long Tubes
Wow not what I was hoping for. The compression that I "claim" I have I calculated on 2 different websites a few years ago RB83L69. But thanks for the input.

edit: My engine does not "ping and detonate mercilessly". With regular unleaded it did a little but with premium it does not. I can tell you this because I ran it with an exhaust on it so I could actually listen to it unlike now. NO I don't want a 350 crank. I made the engine a 327 on purpose. I could post a pic of it with the "shiny" chrome

 

I haven't even looked at the gears to be honest with you so I'm assuming 3.23

 

Get it Dynoed and enlighten us on the power out put..
I have run 11 1/2 to 1 one on with aluminum heads and had no detonation on a 355 motor before with supreme fuel of coarse.
Get steeper gears like 373's and your car will come to life off the line. 323's are high way driving gears.