Please tell me what you can tell me from these pictures.Since I have no idea. I am kinda hoping that is a 4 bolt main. to stoke it.




(well i tried twice to put the pictures.Just cut and paste the link.sorry!dam angelfire!)


[This message has been edited by manuel (edited August 22, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by Vader (edited August 23, 2001).]

 

Its a two bolt. Get a chevy small block book before you go any farther.

 

2 bolt main.

Thats when there are 2 bolts holding the center 3 main caps in place.

A 4 bolt has ...are you ready..??..4 bolts on each cap.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
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"He can see air"

 

That's a 2-bolt main block.

Look at the main bearing caps; each of them has 2 bolts holding them to the block.

There's no reason that you have to have a 4-bolt block for a stroker.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Than is a 2 bolt ok? It won't break and explod above 400hp?

How high RPM can a stroker handle?

 

Give you a hand here... next time leave the / off the front IMG tag and it will work.

Edit the message and delete that first slash and your original post will work, providing your link is correct.

 

Typically, I'd go with a 4 bolt main if the engine is definately going past 6500-7000 rpms. Mind you, what I mean by past 6500-7000 rpms is not that it will spin that fast (any engine can do that), but that the peak numbers will be at or above that rpm and the engine is expected to operate at or above that rpm for a sustained amount of time (not a dialy driver, unless it is a 50% race car ). Also, this 2 bolt main block allows you to add splayed 4 bolt main caps (needs machining, or drilling and tapping at least). Ask your machine shop for prices and details. A 2 bolt is generally good for ~500 hp or less and under 6500 sustained rpms.

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George P. Lara
1984 Z28
2001 SS #0391
SCCA, SCFB, SC3GFB

 

and splayed mains are stonrger than normal 4 bolt mains too, but you more than likely will be fine with 2 bolt.

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http://people.ne.mediaone.net/gdm

 

ohh ok. So i can convert my two bolt to a four bolt. Sooo,how much will it cost me?any ideas?

So do yall think I have a good or bad block?thanks.

 

anybody?

 

anyone please.?

 

Can't tell from the pic whether the block is good or bad. Or neither. It might be a 638, which IIRC is the most common one-piece RMS 350 block; if so, it might be a roller block, which might be a good thing. It looks fairly clean inside which might be good. Of course, I really can't tell if it's already been bored, or if it's cracked, or if it has core shift, or a wasted cylinder bore that's too far gone to bore, or any of a thousand other things that go into determining whether a block is good or bad.

As for the cost to make it a 4-bolt, you'll need a set of main caps (look them up in Summit or Jeg's or call your local speed or machine shop), plus the installation labor which will include align-boring. Call your local racing machine shop (as opposed to Joe Schmoe's Auto Parts) and get a quote. If you have a circle track in your area, find out where those guys get their machine work done, and get them to do it. You need somebody that services real racers, not street wannabe types, that's not the sort of thing to farm out to the low bidder. Expect to pay a minimum of $350-400 for the whole deal. Then of course you'll need it bored, honed, cleaned up, etc.; that's just the additional cost for making it have 4-bolt caps, over and above the other usual prep work.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports