Tech / General Engine Is your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: CARiD

Starter has to be easier than this...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 13, 2005 | 08:28 PM
  #1  
sellmanb's Avatar
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,840
Likes: 1
From: Tigard, Oregon
Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Starter has to be easier than this...

So I did an intake swap from my old LG4 intake on my 350, to a ZZ4 intake. The car started just fine before the intake swap.

After the intake swap I turn the key and I get a continuous "click click click". It sounds like something is extending, but not actually trying to turn the motor.

Things I've done to try to fix the problem:

Got a new LT1 Starter (the old starter had a huge crack all around the housing, thought I fixed the problem with this one!)

Tightened all the grounds that I could find to their "proper" locations (I took grounds as I saw them and attached them to the back of the heads, one on the alternator bracket/waterpump)

Recharged the battery

Taken spark plugs out

Put one shim on to see if it made a difference.

Replaced the battery terminal bolts.

I even turned the motor by hand to make sure it was not siezed.

Nothing I do seems to make a difference.

If it sounded like it was atleast trying to turn the motor then I would be more inclined to believe it was a shimming issue. Instead it sounds like a series of clicks.



Do I need more shimming? More grounding? What else is there for me to do? I didnt think an intake swap would screw with my starter so bad! lol.

Thanks in advanced
Reply
Old Jun 13, 2005 | 08:57 PM
  #2  
Nixon1's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,931
Likes: 0
From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
Check your grounds, maybe you missed one....
Reply
Old Jun 13, 2005 | 09:05 PM
  #3  
sellmanb's Avatar
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,840
Likes: 1
From: Tigard, Oregon
Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Thanks Nixon1, I will have to go and check that out.

Is an aluminum intake more resistant to being grounded to/through than an iron one? This is the only thing I could think of since I have more grounds actually attached now, than I did before the intake swap, so it is rather frusterating.

While I did the intake swap I also took a lot of wires out of their looms so I could re-arrange the wires properly, but I havent re-loomed them since this problem occured, I'll have to make sure that none of those wires are grounding out on a header or something.

Thanks for the encouragement... that's pretty much all I need aside from some good advice
Reply
Old Jun 13, 2005 | 09:13 PM
  #4  
Nixon1's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,931
Likes: 0
From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
I imagine aluminum wouldn't ground for crap, being that it's non-conductive..... Could always try relocating the ground, even temporarily, just to see if it helps...
Reply
Old Jun 13, 2005 | 09:36 PM
  #5  
8Mike9's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Aluminun is highly conductive, grounding to the new intake should not be a problem.
Reply
Old Jun 13, 2005 | 09:37 PM
  #6  
Nixon1's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,931
Likes: 0
From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
Originally posted by 8Mike9
Aluminun is highly conductive, grounding to the new intake should not be a problem.
It is?? Damn guess I should go back to school
Reply
Old Jun 13, 2005 | 09:39 PM
  #7  
8Mike9's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Yep.

Lol...see what happens when you give up on GM's and go brand "F" ?
Reply
Old Jun 13, 2005 | 09:44 PM
  #8  
Nixon1's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,931
Likes: 0
From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
Originally posted by 8Mike9
Yep.

Lol...see what happens when you give up on GM's and go brand "F" ?
Nah I was dumb to begin with. And actually I'm domestic without prejudice, I just found *brand F* easier to work on, cheaper, and more practical for what I wanted to do.

I'm kinda drunk, so I have an excuse. I believe I was thinking of magnetism, rather than conductivity.

So anyways back on topic.... You got the starter/solenoid assembly as a whole, correct? It's possibly a defective part...I mean if the thing is properly grounded, and batt is charged and good...there's no reason for it not to crank the motor, ESPECIALLY with the spark plugs out.

Last edited by Nixon1; Jun 13, 2005 at 09:47 PM.
Reply
Old Jun 13, 2005 | 09:51 PM
  #9  
8Mike9's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
I too have a few "F" things...I just don't tell anyone

Back to the original poster, were you listening to the stereo in the car for a few hours during the swap?

None of the small ground wires should cause you to not get enough voltage to spin the engine over. I'd bet on the large ground you disconnected, or the battery drained.
Reply
Old Jun 14, 2005 | 12:32 AM
  #10  
Stekman's Avatar
TGO Supporter
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
I agree. Go over all the connections again, make sure all the grounds are clean, the contact surfaces are good, etc. That means even that little strap from the solenoid to the starter motor casing.

If all the connections are good and whatnot, I would say check voltage at the S terminal.
Reply
Old Jun 14, 2005 | 12:41 AM
  #11  
SLEEPER 86's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 627
Likes: 0
From: Carson City Nevada
Car: 86 coupe
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27 posi
also,just because parts are new,doesn't necessarily mean they are good!switch out that solenoid!
Eric B
Reply
Old Jun 21, 2005 | 01:13 PM
  #12  
sellmanb's Avatar
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,840
Likes: 1
From: Tigard, Oregon
Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Thanks for the advice, I am thinking about replacing all the wires leading to the starter. I jacked the motor up a little bit and the starter worked perfectly, so I'm guessing it's either a stray ground wire, or one of the wires isnt making proper connection to the starter and when it gets pulled away a little it seats better. I'll have to give it a nice long look over.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
3rd gen money
Electronics
6
Oct 11, 2019 09:57 PM
apie2546
Electronics
3
Oct 16, 2016 02:24 PM
dusterbd
TPI
0
Sep 29, 2015 08:40 AM
SS-EXPRESS
Electronics
2
Sep 28, 2015 09:14 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:20 AM.