How bout this idea for traction, as compared to buying a $350 adjustible torque arm:
-Make a cut near the end of the torque arm (not all the way through, just like a slit).
-Bend the torque arm slightly (2 or 3 degrees).
-Weld it back together.
Anyone tried anything like this? Any luck? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


------------------
1984 Camaro Sport Coupe - Rebuilt 355 S/D TPI L98, Crane 2032 CompuCam, Crane adjustable fuel pressure regulator, MSD Blaster coil, custom burned PROM, stock TPI intake, Accel 24# injectors, gutted air box with K&N filters
F41 Suspension Package, 700R4 Tranny, TCI Breakaway torque converter, 3.27 Posi Rear
Hooker Shorty Headers, Catco High-Flow 3" Cat, Flowmaster 3" American Thunder Cat-Back

Best 1/4 Mile Run:
14.137 @ 94.57 MPH

1992 1LE B4C Police Camaro RS - 305 TPI 5-Speed

 

Cutting and bending it will make it weaker than it already is. You will need to reinforce it. Also, a benefit of and adjustable torque arm is that you can fine tune it for max traction. With the cut and bend method, you just guess and hope it helps. If you want cheap traction, make your own LCA relocation brackets.



------------------
350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, currant red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

If you have the ability to cut and weld anyway...just make yourself a new adjustable torque arm rather than buy one.

Doing it the way you described wouldn't work that well. the piece would still flex too much.

------------------
"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports

 

The reason you buy an aftermarket torque arm is to replace the piece of tin the factory calls a torque arm. It bends and flexes. The added benifit of an aftermarket one is the ability to adjust pinion angle.

------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block

Best ET on a time slip: 11.242 altitude corrected to 10.89
Best MPH on a time slip: 121.52 altitude corrected to 125.89
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 497.9
Best 60 foot: 1.546

Racing at 3500 feet elevation with a typical race day over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

Mounting it directly to the crossmember instead of the tranny ain't a bad idea, either.

------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. 2-1/2" cat-back, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).

 

IMO, for a cheap, quick, easy, hotrod tweak just to adjust your pinion angle, it doesn't sound like a bad idea. Just be sure that weld is a weld from hell.

 

I did that back when the Hard Rock Camaro article was on the stands - they cut one, welded on a rod end and bolted it to a d/s loop.

I used a Lakewood d/s loop and bolted a 1/4in x 3in bar from the bottom of the loop to the driverside mounting point and cut the torque arm and bolted it to that 1/4 bar- using a small U bracket I made - this is before I learned to weld. It worked good

I had to ditch it to run dual exhaust

 

I've been considering welding mine to strengthen it. I have an extra torque arm that I'll cut the ends off of, then "nest" it into the other one and tack weld it in place. It'll add a few pounds to the car, but it should get me a nice stiff torque arm.