how much for rebuild or new engine??
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Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Bloomfield, NJ
how much for rebuild or new engine??
I have a 91 305 and it needs a valve job immediately (my #5 plug has fouled twice in two weeks). how much does a valve job usually go for? would it be easier to get a complete rebuild or does anyone even recommend a new engine. how much does that go for?
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Not so fast, you may not need all that. Have you done a compression check? If not, do so, and keep reading below if the results come back okay. If the results confirm bad valve sealing, consider upgrading to World Products S/R Torquer 305 replacement heads, which are better than factory heads in all respects. About $650 assembled from Competition Products plus gaskets and installation.
If compression test confirms good valve sealing:
Small-block Chevys are well known for inadequate valve guide seals, little o-rings on the valve stem under the spring retainer. They harden over time (especially with petroleum-based oil), and don't do their job anymore.
Replacing the valve seals does not require machine work or removing the heads. With an air compressor, an adapter to go into the spark plug hole, and an on-head spring compressor tool, you can hold the valve up against the seat, remove the spring, replace the valve stem seals (most people go with upgrade umbrella seals while they're at it), put the spring back on and move to the next cylinder. The most time-consuming parts are getting the valve covers off and on, and adjusting the rocker arms.
------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. 2-1/2" cat-back, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 CC system w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback, restalled TC, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
If compression test confirms good valve sealing:
Small-block Chevys are well known for inadequate valve guide seals, little o-rings on the valve stem under the spring retainer. They harden over time (especially with petroleum-based oil), and don't do their job anymore.
Replacing the valve seals does not require machine work or removing the heads. With an air compressor, an adapter to go into the spark plug hole, and an on-head spring compressor tool, you can hold the valve up against the seat, remove the spring, replace the valve stem seals (most people go with upgrade umbrella seals while they're at it), put the spring back on and move to the next cylinder. The most time-consuming parts are getting the valve covers off and on, and adjusting the rocker arms.
------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. 2-1/2" cat-back, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 CC system w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback, restalled TC, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
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