i got her running today guys, only for a sec tho cuz i have no oil pressure so i shut her off...aftermarket pump with an ARP shaft and a malory distributor, now i primed it before and with my drill i got 60 psi with it spinning as fast as the drill can spin so i know the pump works so my guess is my distributor isnt making contact with the shaft...but the distributor is all the way down so my question is do they make different length shafts or whats the deal (yes im sure the distributor is sitting all the way down? It came with its own shaft so im gonna try that but i figured every shaft is the same length so why would my ARP one not be long enough? Anybody think they know was up? I know the intake manifold gaskets are thicker than what i was used to seeing but none the less? Im really stumped guys. Its a mechanical pressure gauge so i know its not the gauge since i would see oil in the line.

 

Just measure it. Measure with a tape and measure into the hole. Them make sure everything is mechanically sound. Where did you install the feed?

 

The feed for what? The oil pressure sensor? Right by the distributor.

 

Exactly how long did you let it run?? If it was truely only a second, you didn't give it enough time to build pressure. Even if you prime a motor right before starting it up, it will still take a few seconds to come up to pressure. Try pulling the coil wire off and spinning the motor over on just the starter and see if it builds any pressure.

 

fixed it thanks guys, amazing what a thinner intake manifold gasket and no distributor gasket can do

 

By going to a thinner gasket and no dist. gasket, you are saying it works now? It won't for very long if that's the case. Think about your stack-up difference.....I can see maybe a .100 difference. If you are only engaging the pump with .100, you are asking for trouble.

 

i thought about that but what else can i really do? I mean i have a 9.020 deck height, used a .051 head gasket, could go thinner but my pistons are already sticking out of the hole .005-.010 so i dont want to go thinner seeing how my piston to valve clearance is already kinda close with my .672" lift cam, what other options are there?

 

I think it would be a good idea to backtrack and find out what the actual source of the problem was originally .
It's possible that there was pressure, but as mentioned earlier, it just didn't show on the ga because of the short running time. In which case, there was no actual problem to begin with.
But if there was actually a problem with the engagement of the shaft end, then deepening the shaft by removing a gasket is only going to be the recipe for disaster in the future, cause you'll only have about .050" engagement.
I'd figure out a way to measure it accurately. Or you could just take your distributor and roate the shaft 1/2 turn so it won't go "home"and see how much it's sticking up from where it's supposed to be. If you get my drift... That amount should end up being the same as the amount of the engagement on the shaft, if I'm thinking right.
Hope that helps.

 

i feel u, to the eye it looked like about 1/4" but ill double check it, like i said i know its a temporary fix, would 1/4" be enough?

 

I meant 1/4 turn when I said 1/2 turn back there.
It seems like most of the time, if I've tried to put a dissy in misaligned, the dissy was sticking up a bit more than that, but not by much.
Putting a thinner gasket on there might help out to get the right alignment on the gears. But your intake is only going to be something like .010" or .015" higher than stock from the added head gasket thickness anyhow.
If you leave the gasket out, it will only mean a slight leak.

 

Also, Moroso sells some dist shim/gaskets in a packet with different thicknesses for adjusting the height of your dist if you have milled heads or thicker head gaskets.
I had a block that was decked .030" and I thought I'd need a thicker dist gasket to compensate. But it ended up that the gears were contacting way low on the dist gear anyhow, so I didn't use a shim.
Most of the time there's a wear pattern on your old shaft that should indicate to you how much engagement there was originally.
Also there's some pigmented grease that is used for aligning gears in diffs and that sort of thing (I forget what it's called) You could use some of that stuff on the end of your shaft and on the gear too, and then spin it a few times to see how it engages.
Keep in mind that the dist shaft ususlly have a lot of play up and down, so the shaft will float downward that much, which will add more area to the engagement.

 

thx bro but i need it down further not up higher