i was visting a friend at ISU (iowa state) and we were headed to a party, and we had to drive down this one road and it was covered with water, the car in front of me made it and it was a euro honda. anyways so i drove through the water, made it halfway and it died, and i was on the gas during this time making sure no water would get in the exhaust because i have borla with no muffler. well it wouldnt start back up. so me and my two friends got out to push. well we pushed it out of the water and up the street a little. then i tried to start it again. nothing so i opened the hood(now at this time it is a terrential down pour) it had been raining for two days, and i was already wet up past my shins from pushing and i was soaked from being outside of the car pushing) so i got out pulled the snorkle from the TB and water just rushed back out, then we openned the butterflys on the plenum and the plenum was totally full of water. well then we got a ride to walmart so i could get some tools, got the spark plug tools. then went back and pulled the spark plugs to see if i could flush the water out.
nothing. the block wouldnt turn over so i couldnt push the water out.
well i gave up here on fixing myself.
so i called my insurance company, no i waiting for the weekday so they can get a hold of me. PROGRESSIVE is my insurance and they have been decent to me so far. i have never had a claim or a dollar paid out before. well no i am in limbo waiting..
just wanting to rant sorry.
any ideas ?


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Jarrad
1990 IROC-Z L98 350 TPI
TH-700R4
G92- 9 Bolt Borg-Warner 3.27gears
Dupont Flame Red Hardtop/ Grey Interior

Working at Carl Cleve & Sons Auto Body Repair as the wetsander/buffer.

1991 GREY S10 2.5L/5SPD -FOR SALE.

 

I'm no expert, but I think one thing that happenes when you get water in the engine is bent rods, which is definately not good.

 

Don't drive in water sorry, good luck though realy.

 

i hope i did bend some rods, i want a new motor, or atleast all of the money for labor and parts, so i can do all of the labor myself and build a better motor.

and i tried to aviod the water, i went through the shallowest part of the puddle.

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Jarrad
1990 IROC-Z L98 350 TPI
TH-700R4
G92- 9 Bolt Borg-Warner 3.27gears
Dupont Flame Red Hardtop/ Grey Interior

Working at Carl Cleve & Sons Auto Body Repair as the wetsander/buffer.

1991 GREY S10 2.5L/5SPD -FOR SALE.

 

Well you should get a new motor because you block is screwed if it has water in it.

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1989 Camaro RS
1973 Truck 350 engine
Bored .030 over
.030 Keith Black Racing Pistons
305 Circle Track heads
Ported and Polished, 3-Angle Valve Job, Milled, 1.96 valves,
Edelbrock RPM Valve Springs, 1.6 Rocker Arms
Hedmen Headers
3 inch exhaust w/Flowmaster 80 series
Competition Cam 488 lift
Edelbrock RPM intake
Holley 750 Carb
Open element air filter
Holley Electric Fuel Pump and regulator
MSD Distributor
MSD Plug wires
Bosch Platinum Plugs
No Emissions at all
Turbo 350
B&M shift kit
Richmond 3.73 gears

Daily Driver (till Camaro is done)
1972 Pontiac LeMans 2Door
red with tan top
350 V-8
Turbo 350 tranny

Dual Exhaust w/Glasspacks
K&N Air Filter

 

progressive didnt have time for my estimate today, they will do it tomorrow. hopefully it goes well.

------------------
Jarrad
1990 IROC-Z L98 350 TPI
TH-700R4
G92- 9 Bolt Borg-Warner 3.27gears
Dupont Flame Red Hardtop/ Grey Interior

Working at Carl Cleve & Sons Auto Body Repair as the wetsander/buffer.

1991 GREY S10 2.5L/5SPD -FOR SALE.

 

Water doesn't compress, so something has to give. I've seen flooded engines recover, but they were drained and had diesel fuel ran through them. However, trying to start the car may have bent some stuff as well as when it first died. By now rust has set in.


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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, currant red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

i pulled the plugs right away, within an hour, and the engine still wont turn over.

oh well i will hopefully find out everything tomorrow

 

I filled mine, and I broke two starters trying to start it. When I pulled the plugs, crystal clear water poured out. I spun the engine a few times to pump it out, changed the oil... and it ran perfect until I decided to pull it. If it won't turn, chances are you haven't got all of the water out yet, or you bent something.

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johnyIROC 1983 Z28
"5.0 is way too slow"

 

Does the engine crank? Or just not fire?

Is it possible you blew your electrical system when you drove through the puddle? (yes)... Check fuses, wires and connections...


Put some motor oil in the cylinders and keep cranking...
If it cranks... Put some motor oil in the cylinders (to protect from rust particles damage) and keep cranking... put the plugs in, plenty of starter fluid, and dry-gas in the gas tank... if it turns over, great... if it runs good, even better... if not, well you've got nothing to loose really since you wanted a new engine anyway and the claim has already been made...

You could always pull the heads, and assess things from there... make sure everything is kosher, replace what you have to, and then kick it if it won't work...

Also, I can almost garentee your tranny is going to feel the effects of that water... if the water was high enough to get into the intake, then it was sure as h*ll high enough to get into the vent tube on the top of the tranny... Is it possible the tranny is siezed and keeping the engine from turning over?

There are a plethora of situations... Good luck...

Oh, and if you don't want your drivetrain after this ordeal, you can always ship it my way... I'll take it off your hands for ya

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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg

 

well guys the estimator came today and took some notes. then came to the shop i work at to tell me the news.

well he said first they would look for a replacement motor( they didnt find one), then they would look into the price of a new motor( but that would exceed the value with labor of the totallable price of the car) so they decided to total the car, now i havent signed anything at all yet.

they said they would give me $5354.90 for the car if they take it, and $2880.10 if i take the car. now that is a difference of $2500.00 salvagable bid. that is nuts.

i will not take the car for only that much if it has a totalled title.

i am going tomorrow to ask if they will give me $2500 instead of the $2880.10 and i will fix the darned thing myself.

i want my car back and if i can get 2500.00 for repairs and have no marks on my title well golly i will fix the car and everything.

and about the water messing up the electronics, i doubt it since the water was only up the the groundfx, and all of the electronics are on the top, the only reason i got water in the intake is because of how camaros are set up with the air inlets extended over the radiator support, and since i cut the air boxes out its a direct path to the K&Ns.

oh well i will have to discuss with them some more. and if i do decide to just give them the car, and take the money, i will be most likely buying a 93 Grand Cherokee Jeep. its perfect for me and since the college thing this following fall after boot camp and AIT to winter... it just might work out.

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Jarrad
1990 IROC-Z L98 350 TPI
TH-700R4
G92- 9 Bolt Borg-Warner 3.27gears
Dupont Flame Red Hardtop/ Grey Interior

Working at Carl Cleve & Sons Auto Body Repair as the wetsander/buffer.

1991 GREY S10 2.5L/5SPD -FOR SALE.

 

Next time, that $25 bypass valve for your intake ducts might not seem like such a bad idea...

Sucks that you just got the car painted, and now it's "totalled".

I don't know about there, but around here you can get a complete L98, LT1, or LS1 for about $800 if you're so lucky to come by when there's one there. I'd find a motor and do all that myself. I think after the work you've put in your car, it's the least you can do for it. I wish you good luck on it.

 

Jarrad, I've been through similar stuff before with the insurance co. It's only totaled as far as far as they are concerned from a value standpoint. Why would you have a "mark" on your title. They don't take, you don't send it in, it will not show as a salvage title! All it means is that they won't give you full coverage insurance again since they have already paid what they consider full value of the car.

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1984 Z28 350
Never argue with an idiot, they'll just bring you down to their level and beat you with experience
My Web Page

 

Sorry to hear about your car man! Good luck with it.

Take care
Mike

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Check out My Car Pics http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/Albu...667&a=13599419

Gran Turismo Americano "The Ultimate Firebird"
Smokin 1989 GTA- Bone stock except for exhaust. (no catalytic-stainless pipe into Flowmaster 2 chamber) & AC Delco Rapid Fire Plugs

 

well the adjuster didnt get back to me today so i have to wait till tomorrow, i am trying now to see if they will just right me a check for 59% of the vehicles worth, basically $3250-250(dect)=$3000 then i rebuild a new 350 and be happy.
and still have money left over

 

Fix it! You cant give up your IROC!

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1988 Jet Black IROC
5.7L W/ 64000 miles
Flowmaster Exhaust
Fully Loaded
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My IROC

 

hydrostatic compression. i did this to a 1 ton toyota pickup with a 3.0 v6. rods looked like screws when they came out of the block it ran after but had bad rod knock.cost me 3 grand to fix it. more than likely you did a really nice job on the rods/crank. if you were not on the gas you would not have bent anything car would have stalled but you were on the gas so you killed it good. i would say the block may still be good. who knows untill you get inside and see. but...heh heh heh.....i wanna see a pick of the connecting rods when you get them out. good luck with your insurance

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87 z28 bowtie aluminum 420small block dry sump crower lt. wt. knife edged crank oliver lt wt rods brodix track 1's super ram intake hooker long tube headers mufflex 4"exhaust accel dfi art carr 700 r4 3.42 gears ssm sub frame/ladder bars.....other parts on the way ,soon to be finished!! couple more weeks!!!

http://people.ne.mediaone.net/gdm

 

i will definately take pictures but it wont be soon. i have to wait a few weeks before i can get a garage to do this in. oh well i can wait.

 

Sounds like time for a nice 383 rotating assembly. Good luck with the insurance company.

 

Something similar happened to me a while back. Rain got in the crossfire hood on my butchered, carbureted '83. It drained in through the air cleaner housing.

The reason it won't turn over now is because when you bent a rod(s) it is not effectively shortened. When you try to crank the engine, the piston skirt hits the crankshaft counterweight, locking it up tight. You'll most likely be able to turn it backwards. Before it goes a full turn though, it'll lock up again.

FIX IT. (just my vote ).

HTH,
Clem

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Clem
SCCA TransAm Series Race Mechanic/CrewChief
-------------
1983 Z28 with LG4, 5 speed, and (unfortunately) T-tops
1983 Z28, NO T-tops, (unfortunately) Auto Transmission (hopefully not for long)

 

Althought it's too late for you now, I was just wondering. Somebody said the water in the cylinders is not compressible, and it'll bend rods. What if you took out the spark plugs right away, and cranked the engine w/ no spark plugs in. Wouldnt that push the water out of the cylinders through each spark plug hole? Then clean out the other openings and try to get the engine to run that way?

 

the inital accident where the water got in the cylinders would have already bent the rod or rods. you either have a rod binding on the crank, or a piston that is gouged into the block. i did something similar once with a little 4 banger and the damn rod snapped but it stayed on the crank, and the engine continued to run (half assed). the broken rod went through the oil pan and put a huge gash in the block all in about half a second. i also found the piston in the oil pan

 

well guys i settled with the insurance company. they handed me a check for $3,000 and the car is not totalled, no marks on the title and i just have to prove that its fixed before they will give me full coverage back.

i have done engine swaps before all of which where fuel injection. if i did do the swap i would just put a stock 350 back in and then sell the car. my car pulled mid 13s in the 1320 so i was happy with it, but i am sick of having the COP HUNTED camaro. i want something reliable,( now dont get my wrong nothing ever went wrong with my camaro before this) but i am looking at a 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee, its MINT its my painters at work. he bought it new in 93 he got hit a year ago but he did all of the work himself and he is willing to sell it do me for $5500.00 now i know i know its not a thirdgen. but with me leaving for basic training and AIT in january and going to college 3hrs away for the next 4-5 years after AIT, i need something better than a FAST camaro.

so if anyone is interested. i have a PERFECTLY MINT 1990 IROC camaro everything is amazing on this car. well its for sale without a motor, well its in there but it doesnt work. it has bent a rod, i believe its the #5 rod. not totally sure but just guess from what water pushed out and stuff.
but anyways its up for sale to a worth owner, i have had two offers for 2500.00 but i have to get more. i mean shoot three months ago i put 4600 in body work into it. just because i wanted it perfect. that is the only reason. now i just dont want the car.







thanks everyone who tried to help, but for now i am stuck.

i am going to see what you guys think so:

should i?
fix it and sell it, not fix it and sell how it is, or what? and keeping it and building one heck of a motor is not in the picture, i need something to drive besides my rusted out S10, shoot the bed is only held on by two bolts so it slaps against the frame when i go over bumps, its sooo annoying. thanks guys

 

ttt

 

hey take that s10 and put a 350 in it..lol jk