Hi Guys, I've got an 88 GTA. I recently replaced the wires, cap, and rotor because I had what I thought was an ignition related issue. Now, the car runs even worse than before. It doesn't do it constantly when it's cold, but most of the time it'll happen. When it's fully heated up it won't stop happening. It's not missing, but it smells like it's running really rich. I can't keep an idle, either. I get an ses light, but when I try to check for codes the ses light turns on, but doesn't blink at all. I use the paperclip - pins A&B (upper right) on the ALDL connector, turn the ign on and nothing happens. I checked the port with a volt meter and with black to left pin and red to the right pin I get -5v.

I suspect it's got to be a sensor causing the running problem, but the ses light is being a pain, and I have no idea how to fix that. WTH is going on here?

Other things to note: I have been able to check the codes in the past, no idea why it's not working now. The cooling fan runs whenever the ign it on, but stops when the engine gets to a certain temp, then comes back on when it gets hot. I had to chisle the previous rotor off with a hammer and screwdriver (gently). If the timing needs to be adjusted, I'm not sure how. I read through the FAQ, but I'm still unclear as I didn't see any hold down bolt when I had the cap off.

 

OK, now that the car is all cooled down, I again decided to check to see if it had any codes stored. The SES light blinked code 12. (at least it worked this time) I watched the code flash like 8 times, just to be sure. So, if the computer isn't giving me codes after it's been running for a while, does this mean my ECU is borked?

Also, I picked up a timing light from sears while I was out. I located the hold down screw next to the distributor, boy is that a tight fit. I didn't adjust it, but I did use the light. Now, I'm not entirly familiar with the process for timing, so bear with me. I saw the line on the balancer, and the timing marker on the motor. It had a few peaks and valleys, and I'm not sure where the line should have been. However, the line fluctuated from about the middle notch to the top notch and when I revved the motor to about 4k, it would extend way beyond the top notch. It jumped around a fair bit at idle and fast idle as well, but it never went below the mid notch, and in fact spent most of the time near the top.

Having looked at the bolt for the distributor, I'm fairly certain that I didn't budge anything while I was changing the cap. However, there was this green ring around the shaft that may have gotten rotated some in the process, if that matters at all.

 

How was the engine running before you replaced the wires, cap and rotor? What prompted you in the first place to suspect you had an ignition problem?

If you're engine ran fine before you added those newer parts, and you didn't move the distributor any... double check you're plug wire routing (18436572).

If the engine runs good when cold, but then runs very rough when warmed up, this 'usually' points to a bad O2 sensor....

Either way, more information is needed in reference to how the car behaved before you installed the newer parts.

 

Ok, well the engine was missing because one of my wires had leaned against the exhaust manifold and burned up. I didn't have the time to fix it, so I taped up the wire and put it out of the way of the manifold, and it worked well enough to get to me to work and back until I could buy replacement wires. During some of this travel time, especially on the really hot days, the engine would run like crap miss a bit, and stall excessivly. I figured this was just related to the bad wire, so I didn't think much about it until after I had changed the wires, and the problem was still there. I'm very certain I put the wires back in thier proper order on the distibutor, and I'm sure that if I didn't, it would be immediatly apparent. It's not really misfiring, but it's running very rich, bogging out, and can't keep a solid idle. If I keep my foot on the gas just a little, I can keep the idle @ ~700 rpms manual, but if I let go the engine will sputter at like 200-300 rpms in park, then die. If It's in gear and I let the gas go, it will die right away.

 

Have you checked your vaccuum hoses? Have you checked for intake manifold leaks? Is there a milky white substance in your oil?

 

Yes, very Carefully. No, will do that today. No, just changed the oil, and I checked it the other day. I"ve got a vaccum gauge I'll hook up to it.

 

Some other things to check are your E.G.R. valve, oxygen sensor, catalytic converter might be plugged and believe it or not, the pc valve in the valve cover could also cause a rough running problem like you're experiencing. Check to see if you're throwing any codes.

 

I had the same problem with mine... after I soaked my spark plugs and had to get new ones I found that my coolant temperaute sensor was busted.

When it is broke it'll read like negative 280 degrees, and pour fuel in to help the motor warm up faster.


Of course, this would be an all the time thing, not just a "once the motor warms up" bit.

Is your TPI system MAF, or Speed Density?

Checked your ignition module?

When was the last time you replaced your Oxygen Sensor? (Those are a fairly commonly missed item to be replaced at regular intervals).

 

Before you say "Ah ha", let me explain the whole story. OK, I went back over the vaccum hoses, the two hoses comming the vaccum on the charcoal canister were questionable, and when I tugged on them one of them ripped open, so they were replaced. I'm certain that they did cause a vaccum leak. I replaced O2 sensor, just as a precautionary measure. Tried to start the motor, all the power goes dead suddenly. Kicking the key a few more times does nothing. I figure I must have left the hood light on with it being up for 3 days, and the battery died, so I put the charger on the battery and the meter pegs full load, and the charger shuts down, WTF? I disconnect the battery all together, and charge the battery, with no problems. I put the charger on the terminals to the car, and the charger overloads again. I figure the starter solenoid is stuck, so I jack the car up, climb underneath and tap on the starter with a hammer. First tap generates the audible sound of the solenoid releasing. I hook the battery back up, and she cranks fine. Ran the motor, which ran considerably better, but the ses light & cooling fan still refused to behave. So I got in up under the passenger side of the dash, and traced the problem to a bad connection at the computer. I pulled both plugs out, blew away some dust, and reconnected them. SES light now works properly, motor runs great. I guess for whatever reason some corrosion got into the pins on the computer and started this mess. I checked to see if there were any water problems apparent, but I couldn't find anything, so who knows. Bottom line she runs again, and that's enough for me for the moment. THX!

 

You're very welcome. Thanks for taking the time to let us know that you got 'er runnin' again. Have fun spinnin' those wheels and take care.