305 TPI tune up parts??
305 TPI tune up parts??
What are the best tune parts be it aftermarket or GM oem parts to do a full tune up. Wires, plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter, oil filter, tranny fluid filter, etc.
Mr. E,
I've had pretty good luck with Champion plugs over the years. The AC platinums are very good, too. I've never had a performance problem with AC plugs, but it drives me NUTS that they don't plate the outer jacket:
Champion has a very good, complete selection of heat ranges and electrode designs, as does AC. Don't bother spending extra cash on the "designer" spark plugs, like SplitFires or Bosch +4s, or "Spark Mocha Latte Espressos". The theory looks good on paper, but doesn't fly in the combustion chamber of an otherwise well-tuned engine. They may be useful in problem engines, but are a waste of money in most applications. But don't listen to me - look for the decals on the 5-second cars on SpeedVision. You probably won't se many teams using SplitFires or +4s, but you'll see lots of Champions and ACs.
As for filters, stick with AC, Wix, or Purolator. AC is always safe, and is really the only way to go for fuel filters, trans filters, and PCV valves. I know that GM often changes specifications on filters and those improvements are released in the replacement parts line as well. The newer (2000+) 4L60Es had an 'O' ring issue on the trans filter, and the AC replacement filter has the new design ring with instructions. I have a feeling that the aftermarket might not be doing that kind of thing as reliably.
The concensus is that Fram filters should be avoided, since their quality and construction have earned a less than stellar reputation. I have personally had a bad experience with a Fram item or two.
Ignition parts are very subjective, since many parts are made by a few companies but marketed by many. Many good companies have a cheap, lower quality part that is priced to sell fast, then also have a premium quality item as a choice. You'll get what you pay for.
Caps and rotors should have glass-filled plastic molded bodies with deep arc chutes and brass contacts. Manufacture isn't that important, but I know that the safe ones are Standard Plus (Blue Streak), Wells/Conrad (Gold line only - not the cheapies), or AC/Delco Premiums.
Spark plug wires are similar. All the big-name sellers have cheap wires and some have good ones. For me, it's very hard to beat the Packard Electric pure silicone wires for either street driving or extreme performance applications. They have excellent cores, terminals, boots, and the proper resistance for stock coils. They also have factory-cut sets of the proper core size and impedeance for cars using higher energy ignitions, like MSD, Mallory, Jacobs and such amplifiers.
Lubricants and fluids are an entirely different matter. You should use the SEARCH feature of the board to do some research on synthetic lubricants for engine, transmission, differential, and chassis lubrication.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
Justice and Freedom will Prevail
Adobe Acrobat Reader
I've had pretty good luck with Champion plugs over the years. The AC platinums are very good, too. I've never had a performance problem with AC plugs, but it drives me NUTS that they don't plate the outer jacket:
Champion has a very good, complete selection of heat ranges and electrode designs, as does AC. Don't bother spending extra cash on the "designer" spark plugs, like SplitFires or Bosch +4s, or "Spark Mocha Latte Espressos". The theory looks good on paper, but doesn't fly in the combustion chamber of an otherwise well-tuned engine. They may be useful in problem engines, but are a waste of money in most applications. But don't listen to me - look for the decals on the 5-second cars on SpeedVision. You probably won't se many teams using SplitFires or +4s, but you'll see lots of Champions and ACs.
As for filters, stick with AC, Wix, or Purolator. AC is always safe, and is really the only way to go for fuel filters, trans filters, and PCV valves. I know that GM often changes specifications on filters and those improvements are released in the replacement parts line as well. The newer (2000+) 4L60Es had an 'O' ring issue on the trans filter, and the AC replacement filter has the new design ring with instructions. I have a feeling that the aftermarket might not be doing that kind of thing as reliably.
The concensus is that Fram filters should be avoided, since their quality and construction have earned a less than stellar reputation. I have personally had a bad experience with a Fram item or two.
Ignition parts are very subjective, since many parts are made by a few companies but marketed by many. Many good companies have a cheap, lower quality part that is priced to sell fast, then also have a premium quality item as a choice. You'll get what you pay for.
Caps and rotors should have glass-filled plastic molded bodies with deep arc chutes and brass contacts. Manufacture isn't that important, but I know that the safe ones are Standard Plus (Blue Streak), Wells/Conrad (Gold line only - not the cheapies), or AC/Delco Premiums.
Spark plug wires are similar. All the big-name sellers have cheap wires and some have good ones. For me, it's very hard to beat the Packard Electric pure silicone wires for either street driving or extreme performance applications. They have excellent cores, terminals, boots, and the proper resistance for stock coils. They also have factory-cut sets of the proper core size and impedeance for cars using higher energy ignitions, like MSD, Mallory, Jacobs and such amplifiers.
Lubricants and fluids are an entirely different matter. You should use the SEARCH feature of the board to do some research on synthetic lubricants for engine, transmission, differential, and chassis lubrication.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
Justice and Freedom will Prevail
Adobe Acrobat Reader
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