On my '87 formula, as far as I can tell, some of the coolant is routed from the front of the manifold through the TB (bypassed on my car), then to the heater control valve. From there it goes out either of 2 outlets, one going to the heater core, and the other T-ed into the line going to the oil cooler, then it returns to the radiator. Do I have that right?

Can I just run a 5/8" hose from the front of the manifold to the heater core inlet, and then cap off the T in the line going to the oil cooler? Any suggestions what to use as a cap? Am I just better off getting rid of the steel piece with the T and running a 3/4" hose from the heater core to the oil cooler?

How was this routed on the pre '87 cars that had the oil cooler?


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Mark
'87 Formula 350
’83 Crossfire TA
'97 WS6 TA (for sale)

 

do a search for "heater valve delete" It's been talked about this a couple times on the TBI board.

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-Tas
'89 Formula WS.6

Got Beach?

 

why would you want to do this....wouldn'tyou always have heat going throught the core then and A/C would be warm.

 

Or you could do like i did and relocate the heater control valve to behind the passeneger strut tower so that it's out of the way. There isn't a single heater hose remotely in the way when working on my car.

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Ed Maher - Moderator @ The TPI & Carb Boards
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
305 TPI A4 2.73 - 14.74 @ 93.25
Stock except ported plenum and dual cats
-=ICON Motorsports=-

- Definitely prototypes, high powered mutants of some kind. Too weird to live, too cool to die

 

I did do a search for it, and found a few discussions, but not anything specific, and none of them mentioned the factory oil cooler, which is part of the circuit on my car.

Why would I want to do that? Well, it's basically an unnecessary part. Pre '87 f-bodies and 4th gens don't have one, and neither do most GM vehicles. My full size truck is supposed to have one but doesn't and it works fine.

All it does is keeps coolant from circulating through the heater core when the heat is not on. You still won't get hot air in the car without it, since the heater door still won't be open.

I’d much rather have a cleaner engine compartment, fewer components to fail and to drop that little bit of weight.



[This message has been edited by 83 Crossfire TA (edited October 18, 2001).]

 

Are there any drawbacks to this? Such as pre-mature heatcore failure or something? Or was this just another failed attempt by GM to accompish something usefull? lol.. just kidding on that last one. Thanks for responses though.

Patrick DeGrosse Jr.

 

The AC will work better if theres not heat going through the heater core. I dunno about it lasting longer, I think thats an old wives tale... theres still water in it no matter what.

 

The fact is that there is still pressurized water in it, and from looking at the valve it looks like there's always flow through the heater core, just with the valve closed by the heater it has to go through the heater core...

 

Mine has never had a valve--but I wish it did. Next summer it's getting a manual valve. With the AC is on it works just fine, air is not allowed to flow though the heater core. The problem is when I cruise around town in the summer with the windows down and the AC off. Enough air gets pushed through the outside vent through the heater core and out the lower inside vent. Or just the radient heat moves through the vent. In any case, feet get really hot. I would keep some kind of valve for the summer time.


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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, currant red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

I ditched my ac and ran a hose to themanifold from the core. Works nice and when I put the temp on cold cold air blows in

 

So What did u guys do with the vaccum line that run to the valve? Just plug it and move it to the side or what? Thanks

Patrick DeGrosse Jr.

 

yea, what did you do with the vacuum line? I'm assuming that it at least needs to be plugged, but can the feed to the heater control just be removed and plugged? Anyone know which one it is (they're color coded). Mine is leaking when I turn the heat on anyway.

- mmp

 

I put a bolt in the hole and hid the vacume line in tubing.