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Best timing chain replacement?

Old Sep 25, 2005 | 11:51 AM
  #1  
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From: Monroe,NC
Car: 90 Formula
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt/3.27
Best timing chain replacement?

All you folks that have replaced your timing chain sets, What's the best one that will fit under the stock timing cover? I'd like to do a true roller but every one listed in catalogs claims that minor machine work may be necessary. Which one will fit without machine work?
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Old Sep 25, 2005 | 03:45 PM
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ede
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From: Jackson County
cloyes is hard to beat
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Old Sep 25, 2005 | 04:22 PM
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From: Caldwell,ID
Car: 2005 BMW 545i
Engine: 4.4L N62B44
Transmission: 6spd auto
Axle/Gears: Rotating
what kind of machining do you need to go with a roller setup?
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Old Sep 25, 2005 | 05:26 PM
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From: Monroe,NC
Car: 90 Formula
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt/3.27
Beats me. Mine is roller from the factory so I thought that one for a roller cam car would fit right in but the catalogs have notes claiming possible machine work. ede,got a part number for a Cloyes that will work?
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Old Sep 25, 2005 | 06:27 PM
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im refreshing a 350 TPI right now. i bought this set

http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/887/...-Chain-Kit.htm

it was a lil cheaper from gmpartdirect.com. single roller, no clearance problems.
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Old Sep 25, 2005 | 06:44 PM
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From: Cypress, California
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 369 TPI
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Nine Bolt
I just purchased the Cloyes 3145 double roller chain for my buildup. It is for the roller style cam.
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Old Sep 26, 2005 | 10:29 AM
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From: Monroe,NC
Car: 90 Formula
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt/3.27
Thanks for the tip on the single roller from SDPC. I just ordered one from my local Pontiac dealer where I get the wholesale discount which made it a bit cheaper.
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 07:51 AM
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From: Monroe,NC
Car: 90 Formula
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt/3.27
Now,does anyone have a method of doing the job that doesn't involve dropping the oil pan?
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 07:06 PM
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never done this job with the motor in the car but,,,u dont have to drop the pan all the way. only the front of it has to come down slightly so there is nothing in the way of the lip on the other side of the timing cover. of course the engine has to be lifted also.

on the motor i have on the stand i tried removing the timing cover without touching the oil pan. i had to force it out somewhat and would not go back in. so dropping the pan would make the job a lot easier. do a search and u'll find more info.
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Old Sep 29, 2005 | 10:11 AM
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From: Monroe,NC
Car: 90 Formula
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt/3.27
I've read several posts about having to lower the front of the pan slightly but no one ever mentioned lifting the engine. Maybe I'll just take the parts I planned to use and let a local mechanic I trust do the job.
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Old Sep 29, 2005 | 11:06 AM
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From: Philly, PA
Lowering the front of the oil pan- yes. Raising the engine- no. Done this dance more than just once or twice.
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Old Sep 29, 2005 | 12:53 PM
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From: Monroe,NC
Car: 90 Formula
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt/3.27
After looking over the gasket kit I'm thinking that the OE oil pan gasket is a multi piece affair? Since I have the timing cover,water pump gaskets and what appears to be the piece that will be used where the timing cover meets the oil pan. I'm guessing that some RTV where the pieces meet and let it sit overnight and all should be well as far as leaks go,right? What are the chances that the side rails of the oil pan might not stand being disturbed by this?
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Old Sep 29, 2005 | 02:55 PM
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From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
I get the Summit brand double roller. I like every one that I buy. You just have to unbolt the pan and starter and then you can wiggle things around to replace a timing cover with no damage to anything else. If your oil pan gasket is a rubber that is still in good shape it shouldn't need replacing. I have replaced a oil pan gasket with the engine left in.
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 01:32 PM
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From: Monroe,NC
Car: 90 Formula
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt/3.27
My oil pan still has the original gasket which is why I'm concerned. How hard was it to replace the gasket with the engine in the car?
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 01:50 PM
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From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
Not hard, took two hours start to finish. I had to drop the starter. Take all bolts out, drain oil. Then you will have enough room to wiggle and slide the pan around. It will take patience to get the gasket on the correct align ment, but I have done it. Look under the car and you will see what I mean.
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Old Oct 21, 2005 | 10:40 AM
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Re: Best timing chain replacement?

No matter what can be said about gear drives, I love my PeteJackson. It's the noisy one (eh..), but I've never had to adjust it.
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Old Oct 21, 2005 | 10:59 AM
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From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
True, some timing sets you do have to adjust and chains will loosen over time. But when I sink a couple thousand or even hudred into a motor, I do not allow it to get enough miles on it to worry about slop or play in timing chains. Who really does that cares about it that much?
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