I just put a starter in my 92 Z28 305, the starter is a reman unit first off. You have a 50/50 chance of getting a successful fire or a *click* sound. I have no idea if the original starter had shims or not. I bought the car without a starter or accessories. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris

 

If it needs a shim, shim it. There is no definite yes or no answer. Get a paper clip, get the drive gear out and see what clearance you have.

 

An improperly shimmed starter would just grind or miss the flywheel, it wouldn't just "click" AFAIK. Sounds like a bad solenoid or bad connections.

 

A click would not be realted to the proper alignment of the starter, rather a faulty wind on the motor, faulty solenoid or wiring.

If a starter is misaligned you will know it right away as it will grind. It will grind the teeth off of the ring gear and you will end up with spaces missing teeth and the starter will spin but their is no teeth to grab. Then worst of the worst you usually end up ripping the drive off of the starter after a short time.

 

OK, these answers rule out the shims. I guess I will pull the starter and take a look at it and make sure all connections are "clean".

 

A starter most certainly CAN click but not turn the engine (and not just for lack of current to it). The LT-1 starter (as well as the original stock starter) on my 92 Camaro has that problem. The reason is that the starter spur gear is too "deep" against the flexplate's ring gear. The solenoid tries to push the spur gear out to engage the flexplate but the teeth don't always slide together. It hangs up tooth edge-to-tooth edge. You get a click, but no engine turning. Happens about 50% of the time on a hot engine, much more likely on a cold one. I've spent plenty of time just turning the key on and off until it finally engages. The fix will likely be shimming the starter out slightly- just haven't gotten around to it yet.

Before you go ripping everything apart, dive under that car with a shop light and actually WATCH what is going on while someone else cranks (or attempts to crank) the engine. You will learn TONS about what's actually happening in about 5 seconds. Like "Ah HAH! So THAT'S what's happening!!"

 

I measured the current going to the starter. Plenty going in, just too much corrosion on the opposite side. I was only reading 9.5 at the base of the solenoid(sp?) and 12.8 at the end of the stud (where the wires go on). Cleaned my wires ends and now the power is straight through. Haven't had a click yet.

Thanks,
Chris

 

Back to the problem again. I took the plastic cover off the flywheel/starter connection and had someone turn it over. The bendix is hitting on the side of the flywheel teeth more then 50% of the time. I shimmed it with a 1/16th shim and it was better, but still doing it. I tried a 1/64th and then a 1/32" in addition to the 1/16th and it is still doing it. On the flywheel it is hitting about 1/2 way down the teeth. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Chris

 

Well yes, take it back tell where ever you got it it wont shim.

Then you can go into an SSC like rage and tell them you wont except a starter that needs a shim. Needing a shim is clearly a defect in the machining of the case since the block mounting surface cannot be changed unless someone were to machine it which will never be the case. Also your facotry starter did not require a shim either and since this part is supposed to be a OE replacment it's clearly not and you demand your money and core or core funds back so you can purchase a starter that is meant to fit like an OEM unit. You could go further but thats enough for most people.

I tell this to every CPS/PSM, all the parts stores hate me.