What am I to look at for a running rich condition???....car stinks bad.....thickish..hanging..grey smoke @ idle...even see a bluish tint to it sometimes.I DID replace both relays for my MAF sensor and it did help some,but now it has come back again...I have checked timeing which is @ 8' and my TPS is 0.540 with key on. I'm out of idea's.Maybe someone can guide me through it step by step with me???.I currently have no codes.

Its a 350 TPI ..all stock.....you know...it started doing it a little ..back when I had to change the thermostsat.Now the smell and smoke is worse...hope that helps any. This was oohh...month ago.

 

Someone please?????....

 

I am from TBI crowd but hear me out .

Maybe the smoke is from the worn seals, I had the same problem. All small blocks have that problem. Basically you need to have them replaced, and your smoke will go away.

The rich condition can be cauzed from few different things.
Usually, your sensors can be the culprits, but you seem to have checked them. How about 02sensor?? If its not Acdelco than make sure u get one. (although I have ran bosch, and so far its OK)

Also, your fuel preassure. Check it with a gauge, or get an ALDL cable and do some readings and post them here. Thats probably the best way to find out what is wrong.

Check your oil and see if its contaminated, so we can eliminate the head gasket.

See if you are firing right, check your pluggs too!

Wire replacement would be due, unless you have done it recently. One plugg not firing and you got a slugg.

When you checked the timing did you disconect the electronic advance. Usually found around pass side condensor, close to the firewall. Its a tan and black, or tan with brown line. It kinda sticks out. Let me know if you did that or not. If not I'll explain later.

Some of your smoke is caused by worn valve seals. That will eliminate a lot of your problems.

Give me more details, I'll try to help.

I had your problem, took my heads off, took them to NAPA, re-built for 200 bucks. NO more smoke.

I am now having some vac/ignition problems, so chime in on my thread here and see if you have some answers.

 

To add and repeat from xlwhellraiser...


Check your fuel pressure.

When was the last time that you did a FULL tune-up?

(this involves, rear differential [GL5], transmission [ATF in most cases], engine oil/filter [full synthetic, weight of what you normally use], coolant, spark plug wires, spark plugs, rotor, distributor cap, coolant temperature sensor, O2 sensor, PCV valve [dont skimp this!!!])

When you said it got worse when you replaced your thermostat I'd check those things first.


Replace your coolant temperature sensor (should be done in the tune-up anyways).

check the TVS sensor to make sure they are broken in any way from taking the thermostat housing off.



Check your fuel pressure at idle, at WOT, after you shut the car off. In the morning check the fuel pressure before you put the key in (and it's sat for quiet a while), then check it after you put the key to the "ON" position. Then take the key out again, and check the fuel pressure in 5 minutes.


Get back to us with results

 

Thanks for helping me out........The O2 sensor is 6 months old,the timeing is set to 8'...the TPS is @ 0.540(KOEO) it idles fine..no missing nice and smooth...its the dam smoke out the back.....worse when hot(normal temp) if I give it sum throttle...man..my eyes start burning..the smoke just hangs around a bit....its rich...I can smell it..the bluish tint I guess could be seals,but I thaught only at start up correct??? My problem is while running.Smoke is not white...I did replace my MAF relays as stated earlier...i was getting a code 34...that code is now eliminated via the relay replacement...wonder if my MAF is screwed cause this smoking ..rich running crap started when my Light came on about a week ago.Now its worse.I did unplug it(MAF) while engine was running..she stalled out,so that tells me the MAF is working.(hope anyway)I checked for vacuum leaks via carb cleaner..nothing responded (no engine idle change)*** I hope and pray its not rings...its the only thing I fall back on to cause this..OR...valves need adjustment (roller rockers 1:5 ratio) But she runs great and excells awesome..so its gotta be a "sensor" issue I would think??? the oil is clean and no milk shake in my pan.(change every 3,000 miles)Man I wish I could get hold of a scanner. Post back if you have more info and/or steps to take.

Thank you Sir for getting back to me

Brent Rndsout@comcast.net

 

Tune-up is 6 months old with all new components IE...AC Delco rapid fire plugs..new cap...new rotor...new wires(accell) new fuel filter....and a new CTS as well. even the modual.

You mentioned TVS...are you referring to the TPS??? if not..I don't know that TVS term..please explain. As far as Fuel..its @ 45 KOEO....unsure of what it would be after 5 mins..I WILL try that though as you mentioned.But in general...the "tune-up" items are all new.Car ran fine untill a week ago with this rich condition..now smoke...haze..etc.Pulled a 34..r&r'd both MAF relays..light is out....but rich is still here. checked the plugs..they are clean.Fire away with a action(s) if you got em.


thanks again

Brent

 

check your emission stickers to see where the TVS's are. Basically, they go at a coolant port (on top of the thermostat housing, or in the intake inside of a coolant passage). They effect vacuum to the emissions systems. I doubt this is your problem, I wouldnt worry too much about it. Just trying to cover all bases.



You are absolutely sure that you replaced the PCV valve? And the coolant temperature sensor is new?

 

well sounds like u took care of most of the basics. next step i'd suggest getting a hold of a scanner and see what the #'s are.

 

or a paper clip.


If you take a paper clip, and put it in the A and B terminals with the key on and the engine off, the check engine light will start flashing.

It will flash once, then pause shortly, then flash twice, then pause again shortly, and do that 3 times.

the once, then twice means 12 (1 and 2). Code 12 is the normal code, you should get that every time you check for codes.

Anything afer that (say 3 flashes, pause then 4 flashes, meaning code 34) will flash 3 times as well. It flashes 3 times to make sure that you get the correct code.

 

forgot to give the picture of the ALDL

 

One things is for sure.

You are running rich

Now there are few things that can make you run rich. First of all I highly doubt that its your rings.
It sounds like it could be sensor related or ignition related. Check your codes, if its not throwing them, than you most likely have a non sensor problem. However, the sensors do tend to go bad and not send a code since they are still sending a reading (bad reading).
Taking the reading from them all could tell you what exactly is the problem.
If you can't do this, than you just have to troubleshoot more, and praying helps too

I would check your distributor, see if all the plugg wires are connected right. Check your pickup coil, it might be grounding itself out and making the ECM compensate for less spark. (My problem, i think). There might be a lack of spark, and ECM is just running you rich to keep you alive. (not too sure about that, but worth trying)

Also, I think you should check your fuel delivery. I am not sure if you have a preassure regulator (you should), and if so, check it. Replace it, its not that hard ( I would think).
Running rich tells you that your fuel lines are probably OK, although I would check the return line. Have no idea how, but check it.
It is either wires flipped and the car not running right, or a sensor problem.

One word of advice, from experience.
Don't think that just because its new from the store, the part works right.
Check them. I replaced two cap's and rotors untill I got a working one .

Good luck.


P.S.
Check all the sensors that you know of, and get a diagram. Its a good way to start. See what each of them controls and see if it sounds like your problem.

Good luck once again.

 

Don't you quit on me

 

Accell wires
Are those the ones you make yourself???

Toss that crap away. Unless done right, they will just not work.

Trust me, you must not have a single nick in the conductor wire, or else it will not work.

By stripping those things, you have a 98% chance of nicking the wire.

If not, just disregard my coment.

(It takes practice to do those right, for those who did that).

Get yourself a custom set of MSD wires, and be done with it for a long time!

P.S. Not intended as hating on accell, or anyone who did their own wires. It just takes a special brand of person to do it. Not me

 

No, it just takes crimpers

I have MSD crimpers and they make that job a piece o' cake. They practically do all the work themselves. Not only that but the crimp is better then most factory stuff.

W/o crimpers you have to carefully razorblade the insulation almost down to the core, peel it back and pull off the excess, and use several sets of pliers and a flathead screwdriver to get a good crimp.

 

Yo..HEy...I'm still here..and I never quit!!!


Two kids and "family" schedual kinda take diag time away..know what I mean???Any whooo...I'm here.

The wires I have are the 8.8 Accell thick wires w/ the red boots...none of them are touching the manifolds..and I find tier thickness a plus as far as heat go's.I did do a fuel psi test w/key on engine off,and walked away to see if it would drop..well after 10 min's she only dropped 2 psi..to me that sounds like its a "green light" and psi is ok.running also is good ..no fluctuations.I read on on here about OHM'ing the injectors...these are the numbers per cylinder

1.---17.7 2.---17.7 3.---17.8 4.---17.8 5.---17.7 6.--17.7

7---17.8 8---17.7

These also look good to me for readings..(engine normal running temp) Now I do have a request of a photo or two on one of your 350 tpi's for the vacuum hose config @ the plenum down above the regulator..those two ports that stick out the side..one is for the regulator..and one is for well the EGR..and then it T's off to something else.I am wondering if if I FUBAR'd it up as far as routing go's.Some pictures would be very helpfull.I had to pull the Dist cover(screws on the tail end of the plenum) off to get a full view.one line I see go's around the back of my Dist out to the purge canister.but I want to make sure the picture I get MATCHES what my car has.

OH YEAH...what is the senosor NEXT to the CTS sensor which are both in the front of the intake as you know..its a big "blockish" type sensor that has the same connector as the injectors due.This sensor has been on my car since *** who knows,but I am unaware of its job title. hmmm..time to replace???..yeah..probably

Well guys I'm currently in the hunt for a scanner of my own..I want to read "live" what the ECM is doing...I see Summit has some decent ones in thier "tools" section.OR..just maybe some in the Manchester NH area has one I could borrow.(fellow F-body owner of course..must keep it in the family ) I have plenty of beer!!! But I want to get a full reading on all actions when engine is running,and print the sucker,and post for you F-body Doctors to see.

Hey guys...thanks so much with the help...MAN-O-MAN the mulla we all save from driveing into a dealer with problems..its a real blast to find a sight like this and all the info.the whole board should get together a bring back the camaro/firebird..it would be perfect then again..this board would be useless...so maybe not?? lolol

Keep iin touch guys...if you have any pics ..send them e-mail to Rndsout@comcast.net.and I'm looking for a "scanner-for-hire" in the MAnchester NH area.

Talk to you later...I'll check posts this afternoon.

Brent rndsout@comcast.net