ok first off, before i took the motor apart, the car would smoke when im at a stop light just idling, but when i drive it goes away, its like when you start your car in the cold and it smokes til it warms up, well thats what happens at idle, and WARM for me.

also for the last couple months the oil gauge stays between 0-10, sometimes when its cold it stays at like 10-15, then when its warm drops to 0. the car runs fine, with no problems.

except for these 2, since then, i put on new heads/intake/headers/carb/distributor, etc.

everything from the block up was replaced, would this fix those problems?

 

valve seals?

 

valve seals are in the heads right?

i put new trick flow aluminum heads on, so i should be ok there

what about the 0 oil, would that be due to the valve seals?

 

Sorry I'm like half awake at work here. If there is no oil pressure then it could be something else.

 

hopefully nothing serious, the block was just redone last year, bored 30 over, flat tops, new crank, all that stuff. new oil pump.

maybe its my gauge, but it still goes up and done, but mostly stays at 0

 

White smoke is coolant burning off, bluish is oil, black is fuel (rich). Of the first 2, which exactly is it? You say white, but talk about wondering about oil burning off.

And no, valve seals could not create a 0 oil pressure situation. At 0 psi, if you don't hear anything, probably a bad sender.

 

I would suspect a head gasket if your getting white smoke and in the worst case you have a cracked head or block.

As for the very low oil pressure reading, im 99% sure you have a faulty sender or gauge. At that low of pressure it wouldnt be long before things start hammering away.

 

well i just got the motor running GREAT today, a buddy came over and set the timing.

the gauge still reads it 0 even with all the changes from the block up, i will buy a mechanical gauge to see if thats what the problem is.

but there are no knocks or ticks, runs great.

 

so if i test this with a mechanical oil gauge, does a sender have to hooked up??

inside the mechanical oil gauge kit, was a hose, some threaded fittings, and a couple other things, instructions how to hook it up

connect tubing to gauge using the compression sleeve and compression nut... install other end of tube to oil pressure port, use adapter in kit if needed, connect using adapter, compression sleeve, and compression nut. secure all tubing. reconnect battery, start and run engine for 30 seconds, turn off and check for leaks.

this is what the instructions say more or less.

 

no sender is needed for a mechanical gauge, the oil goes through the tube right into the gauge moving the needle hence the "mechanical"

 

im stupid thanks for the help.

it has ALOT of tubing, can i throw this up under the dash??

 

I would suggest cutting it to the length you need, but if you want to shove it under the dash just make sure you dont kink it or have it near the steering column or pedals or your going to have a nice oily mess on your feet

 

yeah ill make sure

im hoping its the gauge, but with the oil at 0, i still drove it hard, the motor never overheated, there were no knocks, ticks, nothing. the motor ran fine.

 

I can't say for sure, but if my guage was showing zero I think I would have checked that out before a couple months went by...

 

Trust me, you'd hear it if it were at 0 in actuality, stupid or not.

 

yeah the sender was bad, mechanical gauge works fine.