Compare the cost of shipping that block down with the cost of a rebuildable core.

 

Ill just stick to buying half descent parts that dont need any hi tech machining. problem solved ;P lol

Maybe ill just stick some big ugly iron heads on this thing and save the $700 to put towards the blower or maybe a new posi.

Anyone know what kind of numbers i need to be pushing to get these front wheels off the ground?

 

That means a stock rebuild.

 

Hopefully the beast can still pull the front wheels off the ground though. Definately be the only car up here that can do it.

 

Do you know how much it's going to cost to build a car that will pull the front wheels? Not just the engine, but the whole car, so that it doesn't fold in half when you do. You might want to set a more modest goal.

 

It would be fun to have my t-tops shatter as my car folds up

Some bars should keep this thing from folding up like a swiss army knife lol

 

for gods sake,
loose = bolt not being tightened properly
lose = to not have something anymore

notice the one O eh? I hate that, why do so many people screw that up?


yea, if you don't have a hot engine now, don't bother going for the best of the best now, and have to wait years to be able to afford to drive it (and finish it), shoot for 450HP, or something reasonable that you'll be able to drive in the foreseeable future.

re-use your heads or something, port, polish, etc, buy blower, build up motor, etc.
your block is ready to go now right? then buy the rotating assembly, have it balanced, then shipped up to you, you can just bolt it together (right?) no extra machining to ship your stuff away.
but manifold, reuse carb, buy headers, buy 12 bolt.
Proceed to burn rubber.

 

Right now i have a machined 4bolt block, it has a brand new 350 rotating assembly so its ready to go for a stocker. My heads are sh!tbox 882s which are only good for boat anchors from what im hearing.

For possible re-use parts i have the performer EPS intake and 600cfm carb, Old school HEI dizzy and some lt headers.

I would really like to go 383, it just sounds alot better when some doorknob in a civic pulls up and says "whatcha got under there" and having a blower, well just having that poping out of the hood speaks for itself.

How long do you figure a cast 350 rotating assembly will last with 10psi boost? will it make it past break-in

 

I would forget the blower entirely for now.

 

aww


Then i may as well pull my stereo, throw some stuffed animals in the back window and drive like a granny lol

If i go no blow then i cant break anything, and thats no fun.

 

So if i build this thing to go N/A then by next year if i get the blower i will have to build another motor, that doesnt sound like much fun on me or the bank account.

Edit: Apeiron, i just noticed your from Salmon Arm. Been there for a while? If so maybe you have seen my car down there, it was there from 84-02

 

Building an engine to take 10 psi with a 6-71 wont be fun for the bank account either way. You started out considering a 340 HP crate motor because of cost, and now all of a sudden you're going to build a $15,000 blower motor instead? Pick a realistic goal.

 

I agree. You are all over the map. If you want a motor that delivers the goods, best for the $$$ invested than build a stock displacement motor ( forget the stroker) with better cylinder heads. use the $$$ you would like to waste on a 383crank and $$$work$$$, into a head that will make power.
Much more return for the $$$.

If you want a blower motor it has to be low compression.
Can't be both a 10:1 compression motor and a 7.5:1 compression motor at the same time.

The blower it self will return the most raw power/ $$$ invested.

You can buid a nice n/a 383 with say vortecs or dart heads that makes a nice 450 460hp at 10:1.

But you could build a 550+hp 350 with a 7.5:1 compression ratio using stock ported chevy "smog" heads with 76cc chambers 2.02x 1.60 valves ( 920, 441 487 336 etc castings) and 10lbs boost from a Wieand 6-71 blower.
* Not 882's or 993's**


The 350 blower motor will eat the 383 and not even have to rev as high. TRW has low cr d dish turbo pistons that are just right for this build.

buy the blower first and work on the heads. the short block is a bolt together other than being balanced.
( stock forged chevy crank stock rods, arp bolts)

If you want a blower motor, build a blower motor. but don;t waste your time or $$$ with a stroker crank for it.
being able to run 10+lbs of boost reliabily by building the motor with the correct compression ratio will get you more power than trying to adapt a 383 to a blower later.
you won;t be able to drop the cr enough.

 

Ok, well lets say F the blower for now, I can probably sell it to my friend in a year or two if i decide to build a blower motor.

Ill build this motor N/A, So would it be worth it to build a 383? As i already have a block here ready to go with some -12cc dished pistons i think i could just throw some small cc heads on it and say good enough, what do ya think?

Then i can spend some money on geting the power to the ground and keeping it there.

 

you have the rotating assembly, so save the cash from the blower, buy wicked heads and a cam. That with your long tubes, and others should be able to give a solid 400HP.
Have you ever ridden in a 400HP car? I haven't, but I imagine it'd be pretty freakin' fast.
Then maybe work on other parts of the car, and in a few years, you can always upgrade to dished out pistons, (relatively cheap), and a blower.

 

IMHO it would be too much of a pain in the **** to upgrade a N/A motor to handle 10+ PSI of boost, that would mean a whole new forged rotating assembly, new cam, new carbs and fuel system, new ignition system. So i may as well start off with another fresh block to build a blower motor.

So for now i guess ill just go hog wild on this 350 i have here, anyone got some suggestions for the top end of this thing?

I know its a bit hard to reccomend good parts without knowing what the rest of the drivetrain is going to be like but this is waht i plan:

TC: Have stock (2200RPM??) i will get a new one, suggested stall?

Trans: TH-350 w/shift kit, working good now i think ill keep it for the time being.

Rear: Open end 10 bolt 4.11s, will hopefully very soon have a Eaton limited slip, should i keep the 4.11s or go 3.73s to get some more top end?

This is going to be a daily driver so i dont want to go with a 6000RPM stall or anything like that

 

Stall on the stock TC is closer to 1200 RPM. The stall you get will depend on the cam you pick, which will depend on your intended application and your heads.

You still need to decide what you're going to do with this thing. If you do any highway driving at all in this "daily driver", you're not going to like 4.11s with a non O/D transmission and a gas guzzling engine. None of it seems like a particularly good idea for a daily driver in a climate that has 51 weeks of winter.

 

Well i dont go out of town much, as theirs nowhere to go

I would like to go 3.73s or maybe 3.23s as i plan on driving this to edmonton next year and would like to calculate my fuel mileange in MPG not GPM lol

I still want it to pull good off the line though but i guess the more power from the upgraded engine should counteract the gear change.

 

yea, I was gonna say, 4.11's and TH-350?? geez, your top speed is what, 65MPH?

I would go to 3.23's. You're not really gaining top end power or anything, you're gaining the ability to go faster. 4.11's would be fine to take off the line, but geez, on the highway a civic could blow by you at 150Km/hr 'cuz you're at redline.

some dart iron eagle heads or something, maybe a lunati voodoo cam, (what i'll be using), or a comp 268Xe or something... keep your carb and intake, you should be fine with those. that'll net you some pretty big power, and you will be able to afford it.

 

0-100km/h in 5sec and thats it lol
Im at just over 3500RPM @ 120km/h

This car has 0 top end, that 240sx i raced would easily get me on top end but i blew his doors off in the 1/8mile

Alright, so 3.23s on a limited slip it is.

 

Lets' clarify some things first. A forged rotating assembly will not be needing replaced should you go power adder route unless for some reason you want to change the stroke of the thing. You can get your forged crank/rods and whatever piston you want now, then when you go power adder all you need is to change pistons to get proper compression-which will only require matching up the new piston with the current rod length and stroke.

Your fuel system can be set-up now with the future mind, what will work for your blower system will also work for your N/A carbed system, you'll just need to plug the vacuum reference boost port on the regulator since you wont be using it N/A, other than that, a properly sized pump will be needed regardless of power added or N/A, but if it were me and I like spending money ONE TIME, I would build for the power adder so it's already there when you need it...nother problems solved and not wasting money

You can buy 1 carb and it's just a matter of setting it up differently, which you can either do yourself, or send into somebody-not a big deal and not an expensive deal either, so IMO that's a non issue in your plan.

Ignition system is not a big deal either, buy the system you know your going to use with the blower and it will work for N/a application. The obvious choice is MSD since you get your basic ignition system to operate the motor and then they offer MANY add on peices depending on which avenue you take for power adder, so again, a non issue.

I trap typicall 120-122mph with my 4.11's and have enough motor left to easily hit 130mph if the track was longer, so I'm not understanding this "no top end" deal that's been going on??? And besides that, just how many races weather at the track or on the street are "top end races"?? Unless your setting it up for the silver mile, top end means dic I will agree for a car that is mainly daily driven and rarely sees track use you are going about this all wrong for your combination....daily driver/reliabilty do not go together with all out performance and will be a trade off soemwhere, that's just the way it is and will always be unless your lucky and gifted...and have money

400hp reliable no problem and that will get most cars on the road too. with no OD and daily driven your gonna want 3.42 for seat of the pants kcik to get you moving and no more than 3.73's....but this will depend on rear tire size also. 3.42 with a 29" tire will be like 3.23 with a 27" tire (roughly) or you could go with the 4.11 gears, a 29.5" tire out back and at 65mph you'll be at 3200 rpm, been there done that 28" tires I'm at 3500rpm.

You need to be completely honest with the TRUE intention of the car before spending your hard earned cash....and take a look at stockers, they are limited on what parts they can run but they run exceptionally fast....it's all about USING the power you have to the fullest, not just trying to throw 500hp at a car and expecting it to be fast. I've seen too many guys buy all the "big" parts and then when at the track, they're slower than dirt....it's about smart decsions and utilizing what you got.

wheeew

 

I want it to be my 10second daily driver

Like i said up a few posts i have a cast rotating assembly already in the motor. So hopefully i can get away with that for a while. -12cc dished pistons so i think ill go with a 64cc head to get the compression up. I know i cant get a 700HP car reliable enough for a daily driver but just like everyone else i want as much power as possible.

As for the tires & rims thats all undecided yet...

 

Ok well i have come up with somewhat of a budget

lets say $5000ca +-

So once again what i have:

350 4 bolt .040
cast crank
cast pistons
GM rods
GM non cc HEI
882 heads <--- definately have to go bye bye
edelbrock performer EPS intake
edelbrock 600cfm carb
edelbrock performer plus cam
double roller timing set
hedman LTs
TH-350
open end diff, 7.5" 26spln 4.11s <-- needs to go too
Maybe some suspension upgrades?

Also need tires and rims but i may do that another time as that might get a bit pricey. but could you reccomend some sizes and whatnot, i want to get some nice fat rubber on the back.

Lets say just street daily driver (the whole 2km a day to work... )

What kind of beast can i build with that?

 

I guess ill start a new thread as this ones a mile long and its no longer going to be a 383.

 

I have no idea what change over is from US to canadian so $5K to you means nohting to me as well as what stuff costs up there, but I'll make suggestions anyways.

358cid is what you have unless you stroke it, but the 355 will be a good foundation. The key to making power is 80% heads 20% cam so budget most your money there.

dump the edelbrock and go holley for easy power gain-some on here will argue that, but think back to how many truely fast cars run a quadra jet type carb-they are out there, dont get me wrong, but it's soo much easier to strap on a Holley, a few quick tunes here and there and boom-your going places fast now

rpm dual plane for greater rpm range

a nice set of vortecs through scoggy dickens-you can get the entire top end package vortecs ready for .550 lift cam, intake, bolts, etc...for just under $1K US and those heads will support 400hp no problem-scroll down to bottom of page http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/2172...-Head-Kits.htm

would personally opt for 3.73's gears with posi kinda best of both worlds for getting out of the box quickly as well as hwy manners for daily driving

would personally go with a solid flat tappet camshaft and set up your valvtrain to use a stud girdle as this will all but eliminate maintenance checking valves. something with a 23?/230? duration and around a 109LSA to give you a nice bumpy idle, but retain pwr brakes and give you enough power to satisfy your needs for now.

suspension: go oout back with some relocation brakets, box your stock control arms to stay on budget, then look into some 50/50 shocks. Once you get money to blow then go up front with the struts/springs etc...best thing you can get is sticky tires of some sort and would recommend those before any suspension upgrades.

On a lecture note, there's probably only a 1/4 of the guys on here actually running the hp they claim. For the rest you have no idea what 350hp feels like or drives like, then once you start getting over the 450hp mark the pack dwindles down even further. Being gear heads you "think" you might know what it's like, or have a buddy that "claims" to have XXXhp cuz he can smoke the tires for a block....alot of the ideas on here are just that-big ideas. Everybody wants to have 900ponies under the hood but have no idea wtf they're dealing with and how on the verge of out of control even 500hp is on the street-the power can easily get away from you in a split second. So shoot for the moon, but be happy with only getting half way, cuz in reality many of these 450hp touting guys might have 300hp if their lucky and think that's fast.

Reality-a mid 13 second STREET car is fast

12 second street car your almost always coming out on top

11 second and now you into messing with mtorocycles for true fun

10 seconds if you can stick it to the ground (chasis/suspension), cars will almost be non existant on the road to meet you and your left eating 600cc crotch rockets at will and giving 750cc a run for their money.

Most of my buddies that are car guys but do not race are like the majority of kids on here...they think they know, but have no idea until they ride in a car that really has what their claiming and then it changes their tune COMPLETELY!!!

 

Wow, looks like youve been typing for a while.

Thx for the input.

I definately wouldnt think twice about going to a holley carb, im not impressed with this edelbrock at all.

Ive started a new thread for the 350 (358) buildup