ok at low idle, when i goose it the carb gives a lil pop... not like a complete backfire..

it bogs a lil then pop and i gotta feather the pedal to keep her goin... thats only from a stand till though....

the motor is just swapped in '75 350.. with alum heads,intake, big cam( i dont have any power assit brakes at idle )
i set my timing at about 5* advance at base...

i have a lunati cam and i set it to 0* advance as far as i can tell....

is there any way to double check my valve timing with the engine in the car??

also i have an overheating issue. see my thread in cooling....plz

 

Yes. With a piston stop, degree wheel, and dial indicator, you can plot the valve timing with the engine installed in the vehicle. You'll likely have to pull the harmonic balancer to do it, but it's a common thing to do.

 

And despite your pleadings, I'm NOT going to kiss you - Not in Florida, Georgia, the Carolinas, Virginias, or anywhere else, for that matter...

 

This isn't a street cam. You will need a high-stall converter for it. Set the idle at 1000-1100 rpm. Change the distributor vacuum advance to work with the lower vacuum.

 

yea for real... holley sells this cam in a kit with heads and intake...


its pretty nasty lope... real nice sounding but i know i gotta change some things around...


as for the vacuum advance... how should i set that up for less vacuum?? weaker spring?

higher stall convert is comming with the new trans... my next money venture

 

yea.... gotta get me one of those... im gunna get the one that comes with the instructional video too.... worth the money i suppose

 

on a side note... my timing gear is set up to allow 4* retard, 4*advance, and straight up timing.... im pretty sure my cam is ground with a lil advance already so i installed at 0*...

what are the benefits of advancing and retarding valve timing

 

Make sure your Probillet doesn't already have this and add it to your shopping list:
(from Summit website)
CRN-99600-1
Distributor Advance, Vacuum, Adjustable, GM, HEI, Kit
These Crane adjustable vacuum advance kits let you tailor your ignition to the advance you want. The adjustability provided by these kits permits you to run the maximum amount of ignition advance throughout the rpm range, without incurring detonation. Once they're installed, you can quickly compensate for changes in fuel quality and altitude. Each kit comes with a vacuum diaphragm, an Allen wrench, advance weight springs, and instructions.

Advancing & retarding the cam timing will move the torque peak around, but for most of us guys it's how you keep the piston from hitting a valve with a long duration, high-lift cam.

 

well i dont have any valve clearance problems right now so im pretty sure im straight...

im still stumped on the engine poppin... kinda pissin me off...

i need a new starter... also my new alternator and battery( i had to buy them) arent chargin... im suspecting the starter isnt letting the alt charge the batt... could i be wrong?

 

Only way the starter could keep the alternator from charging the battery is if it never cut off after the engine fired. Check your wires.

 

alright... ill check em again...

i had the wire that is black then splits to two reds burn from the 305 and i replaced it but i need to know wat wires are supposed to be on the starter...

like what ones go on the lil post and what ones go on the larger post

 

The alternator is pretty simple. The heavy positive wire that comes from comes off the alternator goes to the positive post on the battery. The plug-in on the alternator should have one "hot-always" wire and one that is hot when the key is on.

 

ok well ill check that tomorow.... im not sure how the starter is wired but its fishy... ill let you know