question about 113 aluminum heads
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Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
I ran those heads with an LT4 HOT cam (.492/.492 lift) and had the guides milled .100". I would assemble the retainer and keepers on one installed valve and measure the clearance to the guide if I were you.
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by Ukraine Train
I would assemble the retainer and keepers on one installed valve and measure the clearance to the guide if I were you.
I would assemble the retainer and keepers on one installed valve and measure the clearance to the guide if I were you.
You should have at least .060" more travel than lift to be safe.
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Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 4BBL
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Originally posted by mw66nova
not exactly sure what to measure though, or what to measure with...anyone think i can get away with the stock valve springs?
not exactly sure what to measure though, or what to measure with...anyone think i can get away with the stock valve springs?
Stock springs with a high lift cam: You can get by with them if you don't mind seeing an occasional valve head buried in the top of a piston or install a rev limiter that will limit rpm to below 5500. (well below the cam's peak horsepower)
#11
Originally posted by Supervisor42
Stock springs with a high lift cam: You can get by with them if you don't mind seeing an occasional valve head buried in the top of a piston or install a rev limiter that will limit rpm to below 5500. (well below the cam's peak horsepower)
Stock springs with a high lift cam: You can get by with them if you don't mind seeing an occasional valve head buried in the top of a piston or install a rev limiter that will limit rpm to below 5500. (well below the cam's peak horsepower)
#12
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Springs that will drop right in without machining and take up to .500 lift with correct pressures that match a mild street performance cam: Crane 99848 or Comp 981.
Retainer to guide seal clearance measuring: Assembly a valve just like you normally would but don't put the spring in- retainer and locks on the valve but no spring in between. Pull up on the retainer to seat the valve and the locks. Use an outside measurement caliper to measure the distance between the bottom of the retainer and the top of the guide seal. That's your max lift before you start slamming those parts into eachother (having an extra .050" of clearance beyond your max lift is highly recommended). You don't need a very accurate caliper for this as you really only need to know down to the .01" level, not down to thousandths of an inch. You can pick up a cheap plastic combination caliper at Lowes or Home Depot for about $10- it's plenty good for this kind of work.
Do at least one intake and one exhaust- sometime clearances are different between them. Stock 113 heads I measured a few years ago had about .480" clearance with the stock retainers and seals in place. If your heads measure the same as mine did that's too tight for the cam you have chosen.
Retainer to guide seal clearance measuring: Assembly a valve just like you normally would but don't put the spring in- retainer and locks on the valve but no spring in between. Pull up on the retainer to seat the valve and the locks. Use an outside measurement caliper to measure the distance between the bottom of the retainer and the top of the guide seal. That's your max lift before you start slamming those parts into eachother (having an extra .050" of clearance beyond your max lift is highly recommended). You don't need a very accurate caliper for this as you really only need to know down to the .01" level, not down to thousandths of an inch. You can pick up a cheap plastic combination caliper at Lowes or Home Depot for about $10- it's plenty good for this kind of work.
Do at least one intake and one exhaust- sometime clearances are different between them. Stock 113 heads I measured a few years ago had about .480" clearance with the stock retainers and seals in place. If your heads measure the same as mine did that's too tight for the cam you have chosen.
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Cutting the guides for positive seals usually gives pretty good clearance. My machinist said mine are good for .560 lift with just that being done (stock-type valves, retainers & keepers). You aren't going with that much cam, so I'm sure your head shop can get you set up with minimal issues.
Now, the real rubber-meets-the-road issue: Are you still planning on the porting work? Nothing has changed from your previous head plans, you know...
Now, the real rubber-meets-the-road issue: Are you still planning on the porting work? Nothing has changed from your previous head plans, you know...
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