Hi, 1992 RS 305 TBI. My car is having problems warming up, and I have found there is no vacuum to the thermostac. I took the air cleaner assembly off to get a better look at the vacuum trail, and broke the one going from the thermostac housing to the air cleaner assembly. Where do I get a new one? The lines traveling from the firewall around the driver's side are cracking/chipping and are totally dry rotted also. Is there a kit I can purchase that will replace all of these lines, or must I buy one for the "harder" plastic lines and a universal for the rubber? I've searched the forums as well as autozone's site and have yet to find a kit. I assume for now I could plug the broken tube and suffer emissions/longer warm time (no change from my current situation) and be okay? I already went ahead and bought a duralast 180* thermostat/gasket, and duralast water pump #CWP-715. I only have one belt, and it has a tensioner pully, so I assume it is serpentine? I just want to make sure the pump is correct for my application. I am a bit of a shade-tree mechanic, so I am not surprised that I broke something. My only concern is this is my daily driver (to school and back) and needs to be operational! Looking at local parts stores autozone/advance/staples automotive...

 

okay, obviously my first problem was calling thermac thermostac. with that aside, I did a search and found someone had the identical problem. my question now is this. Apparently this vacuum hose comes in bulk, at any napa store. would advance or autozone carry it also? Even if I replace the hose, it still doesnt solve the question as to why I do not have vacuum. I'm going to put the air cleaner assembly back on and see if there is a vacuum coming from the hose coming from the tb to the air cleaner and figure out what to do from there. But I'd really appreciate it if someone could direct me to a store i could get this hose from, as there aren't any NAPAs around.. thanks

 

Any parts store will probably have it... if they give you a blank stare when you ask for vacuum hose, ask for it by its secret identity, "windshield washer hose".

 

can i use some of this "winshield wiper hose" in place of the plastic line that went from the air-cleaner assembly to the thermac? I just put everything together and am getting plenty of suction from the hose coming from the TB that goes to the air cleaner, but none coming from the lne that came from the air cleaner. What is this sensor they both go into? could I simply run the line from the vacuum in the tb to the thermac? Also, is there a universal size for these vacuum lines, or should I be looking for one in particular? It's dark out now and I'd like to just get this put back together.. thanks

 

The size you need is probably 7/32" or so, but don't take my word for it.

I'd have to look at a vacuum diagram to see how yours should be routed.

 

thanks, went to autozone and got a "universal" vacuum line for fittings 1/8-1/4"

I have yet to find the EGR. Is it to the left (passenger side) of the distributor? I need to find the diaphram to test if the system is working. My waterpump is making a constant "scream" I really can't put it any other way.. at first, upon starting the car, I'd hear almost a grinding noise coming from the pump. Now it's just screams. How long would replacement take for a novice? I would have tried to replace it yesterday, but my stepdad controls the majority of the specialty tools (torque wrench). Also, I hear a clicking coming from behind the dash/firewall from time to time. I believe it is the relay for the fan, but I could be mistaken. Would this be because my thermostat is stuck open? I'm lost. Frustrated. And praying I dont sacrifice my daily driver to the gods of ignorance. Thanks.

 

Changing a water pump doesn't take more than a couple of hours at most with basic hand tools. There aren't any fasteners involved that I'd worry about using a torque wrench on.

 

really? haynes manual said 35 lbs of torque, which i assume would be "tight, but not putting too much pressure on it" I am fairly confident I could do the replacement, but just dont want to suffer the consequences of over-torqued bolts in the block... if I could get confirmation, I'll start on it asap. thanks!

 

If you didn't break the bolt, it's not overtorqued.

 

He would hear the lovely sound of the water pump cracking before the bolt breaks i think

 

haha that's certainly comforting to hear, considering I have a LLT warranty on it, no the 305 Since I'm going to get started on the replacement as soon as I get out of class (10am ish.. plenty of daylight) There's a few questions I need cleared up. Keep in mind this is a '92 RS 305 TBI Serp Setup. Were there any "v belt" 305's produced in 1992? I have read threads of people bolting on the wrong (counter vs clockwise) and I really do not wish to go through the same ordeal. Autozone directed me to DURALAST_NEW #CWP-715.. I was initially going to purchase the "HD" model as it was the same price, however someone snagged it just before I could. Same price, go figure? According to Autozone HD PUMP UTILIZES ROLLER BEARINGS AND A CERAMIC SEAL FOR INCREASED DURABILITY. My basic questions reguarding the pump... is it the correct one for my application (Counter-clockwise I assume) I ask because the part # is CWP which means to me it is Clockwise. If anyone could verify this is the correct pump for my application, I would appreciate it. Have any of you tried such a pump, any advantages in getting the HD? I'm on a rather tight budget, but realize it is quite possible I will be replacing the pump again in a few years. Would you recommend I exchange this pump for the HD or even a reman?

I really ought to have considered the thread topic before initially posting, but the topics, like the vaccum problem that is fixed btw, are general, novice problems that most of you can hopefully answer for me.

I hear a clicking noise from behind the dash on the driver's side. I am almost 90% sure it's coming from a relay I had just replaced with GP Sorenson. Often times I find the heater does not turn on when it is supposed to, except when turning the car completely off it operates for a second and drops off. If the relay is shot, I'll replace it, but upon recieving the car I was told the relay/fuse? craps out every few months. Would this be the result of stress from turning an old/worn out motor?

And last but certainly not least, could anyone give me helpful advice on waterpump removal? I am equipped with a haynes manual, but after reading it inside and out, I find it really doesnt give in-depth help as far as loosening the tensioner pully (do you turn that star bolt to loosen it?) and waterpump nuts. For example, should I soak the bolts in PB before attempting removal? Tomorrow I am also replacing the thermostat, as it stays open.

Again, any informative help will be appreciated. I rely on this car to make the daily 30 min highway trip to class and do not wish to run into any kinks along the way. If any local guys care to come by and lend their advice, I'll supply the juicy juice and terry cloth! Haha, but really.. Thanks for the help. I find you guys to be more informative/helpful/generous ect, than any import forum for any import car I've ever had.
Thanks.- Vic

one last question.. I've searched the forum but have yet to find any step-by-step information reguarding entire coolant flushes. I know about the bolt in the pump/radiator/engine block, are thoes the main ones? Last month my rear passenger seat filled with fluid, and I couldnt tell if it was anti-freeze or rainwater from a leaky window, but it hasnt leaked since, and the heater works fine so I'm assuming the heater core isnt shot, but would like to know if there is any more drain plugs I should worry about.. thanks thanks and thanks.

 

DURALAST_NEW #CWP-715

Will that fit a 305 TBI with a serp setup? The part number says CWP, which means clockwise to me. shouldn't it be counter-clockwise? Thanks