While grinding clearance notches in my block for a 383 crank, I discovered how thin the block I was using actually was and punctured a cooling jacket....

Now What can I do? I bought a bucket of that hard blok crap to fill the water jackets with, but I have my doubts about if that will seal the hole I made. Help!

Q

 

I'd get another block and why build a 383 anyway? If you are only going to race it the concrete will probably work but I don't know about using it in a street machine.

 

Hey man persevere and don't feel like the Lone Ranger. **** happens!

I hate to admit it, but I did the same thing and still have an all finished nothced block sitting in my garage, waiting for a solution.

I was fortunate enough to lay my hands on another raw #010 4-bolt a couple of days latter and went at it again....BUT....with extreme caution. It's now on the road and I love it.

Check out the following thread for some great feedback.

https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/006356.html
------------------
87 Camaro with 700R4 and 2.73(3.23 posi in the driveway), 383cid, 4-bolt #010, Int. Balanced Eagle crank assembly, 4340 crank and H-Bean 6.0 rods with SRP flat tops.
DART IE 200/72cc heads (10:1 C/R) with Harland Sharp 1.5 full roller rockers and Guide Plates
Comp Cams XE274H (230/236 .487/.490 110LSA 1,800-6,000 RPM).
Edelbrock RPM manifold with Holley 750 (Vac/Electric).
MSD Pro-Billet (Vac) with 6AL box and Blaster2 coil.
Hooker SC LT headers, 3" pipe to Dynomax muffler and 2 1/2" dual outlets.

[This message has been edited by Changa2 (edited December 07, 2001).]

 

I'd suggest getting the cylinder sleeved. It will be cheaper than having another blocked bored out.

------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block

Best ET on a time slip: 11.447 altitude corrected to 10.99
Best MPH on a time slip: 119.42 altitude corrected to 124.86
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 493
Best 60 foot: 1.586

Racing at 3500 feet elevation with a typical race day over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

I forget what the stuff is called but some people put in in 400s when they rebuild them to fill in some coolant holes to make the block more ridged. Engine filler? sorry brain fart, I can't remember what its called :0/

------------------
-Tas
'89 Formula WS-6

305, TBI, 700R4, P.A.W. 14x3 open element with K&N, Milodon 160* thermo, functional Formula hood, cross-flow Flowmaster, '99z28 rear pipes and tips, Hooker 1-5/8" 50 state legal headers, Dynomax 3" I pipe (PN 44063 and 43248)
Super GRK_Taz World
F-Body Dual Exaust
EFI & Intake Options

 

to late now but having the block ultrasonicly checked would of let you know how much metal you had to work with. it's common on 400 blocks, or any block for that matter, to fill a inch or so with grout to make the bottom of the bores more stable and to allow you to break thru the metal when grinding clearances without worry of a leak.

------------------
ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

I guess that's what I'm asking then: How Effective "Hard Blok" (the name for the crap to fill blocks with) when you would actually grind through the block and into it. i. E. if it was non-pourous enough for water not to seep through it. If there was anyone out there who had experience with this product I would like to hear from them.

Q

 

Like ede said, it's common practice to use that stuff (block filler) to prevent this problem.

Buy some of it and use silicone or something to plug the hole enough to hold the block filler in.

It should work out OK. Try to make sure that you keep the coolant drain holes in the sides of the block from getting plugged up; it's a hassle not being able to remove the water when you need to...

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

[This message has been edited by RB83L69 (edited December 08, 2001).]

 

Can't he just take it up to a machine shop and have them do something with it, weld in a patch or something? I would assume that a good shop would be able to fix the problem right?

 

That sounds good then. There is really no way to weld a patch on, because the clearance was not suffucent when I poked the hole. I'm using a H-beam rod with quite a bit of meat around the large hole end so there needs to be a little more room. On the left side of the block I opened it up so there was about .125" clearance and no problems- right side there is about .060 and then the hole opened itself up.

It looks like I'll use the Filler then, and see if I can keep the drain holes open in some way, shape or form.