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I need help troubleshooting!!! Car won't start.

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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 11:12 AM
  #1  
Dave's 89's Avatar
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From: Dallas, TX
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: L03
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen/3.42
I need help troubleshooting!!! Car won't start.

I don't know where to start and can't afford a wrecker and mechanic.

It's a 305 TBI engine, It just quit on me while driving. It's cranking fine, good battery, but no fuel AND no spark! The coil tested good and is being fed 12 volts. What could cause the simultaneous loss of both spark and fuel?
Any ideas? Any advice would sure be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 11:31 AM
  #2  
ZZ28ZZ's Avatar
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From: Austin
Car: 82 Z-28
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Does all the elec stuff work, like lighting, blower fan, power windows, etc. If not, you may have a blown fuseable link.

Possibly a broken cam, timing chain, or distributor gear. Easy to check for. Pull dist cap and crank eng. Look for the rotor turning.
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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 12:12 PM
  #3  
Vader's Avatar
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The loss of both spark and injector pulses can be due to a failure of the HEI switching module in the base of the distributor, or its wiring.

When you remove the distributor cap to check fror rotation (as long as the rotor turns), check the connections at the module and distributor.
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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 01:29 PM
  #4  
Dave's 89's Avatar
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From: Dallas, TX
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: L03
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen/3.42
I'm confident it's an ignition problem. The rotor turns, it's definately not a cam or timing chain, and everything electrical works (lights, blinkers, fan, etc.)

Would a bad switching module cause my no fuel problem?
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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 03:40 PM
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The ECM will not operate the injectors unless it is receiving reference pulses from the HEI module in the distributor. If the HEI module fails, you can lose BOTH ignition and injector pulses. One isn't much good without the other, anyway. That's why I suggested looking at the module and its connections.
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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 05:33 PM
  #6  
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From: Alliston,Ontario
Car: 85' Z28
Engine: 383 roller
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.70
I've blown countless modules, and the same thing happens as you state (well I have fuel, I converted to carb). If your getting 12 volts to the coil as you say, I would bet that vader is 99.9% right. Pop off the cap, remove the rotor (remember its position), and undo the two screws. Most parts places can test it for you. I carry a module with me in my car now
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Old Dec 5, 2005 | 06:20 PM
  #7  
Dave's 89's Avatar
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From: Dallas, TX
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: L03
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen/3.42
It was the module. Thank you guys MUCHO
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 08:53 AM
  #8  
Vader's Avatar
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Not a problem. You did all the work, anyway. All we did was stand back with a beer in our hands and point fingers at stuff under the hood.

It's always good to hear back once a problem is resolved, however, so we don't continue to wonder.
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 07:01 PM
  #9  
vorgath's Avatar
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LS1
Similar problem

I got the same problem *sigh*
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=334747

Is it possible to fry the ignition module as soon as ya put it in and crank the engine ? And if so, how could that happen ? And like I posted, getting a Code 54.
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