My dad saw this on one of the horsepower tv type shows a few weeks ago. He said they used a special pain inside the engine in the lifter valley area. It was a special formula paint that resists heat and sheds oil similar quickly, making for a more effiecint oil system. Have any of you guys ever heard of this? If so, is it worth doing? Thanks.

 

i have heard of painting your lifter vally, and i also know there is a liffter vally baffel that they put in there that acks like a windage try, and also attemepts to keep oil away from the intake to give you colder air, i havent done either

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90 RS 305 tbi, 4 3/4" cowl Hood, Edelbrock TES headers, Flowmaster exhaust, Crane roller cam, comp roller rockers, vortec heads/intake, ported tbi, w/new injectors, MSD probillet Distributer/ coil, 1 inch tbi spacer, air foil, 14x4 k&n flat base air cleaner, Rebuilt 700r4 w/ B&M shift kit, B&M Megashifter, 3.23 posi, 2 12 RF's with mtx amp, top of line alpine cd player,autometer phantom gauges, soon to have 91-92 gfx, z-28 wing, new paintjob, rims, all new suspension, and new inteior

 

I think it was Rust'O'leum your talking about.

You can also use a die grinder, which is better, but makes a mess. You'll need to give your engine a super bubble bath afterwards. I accualy gave mine two bubble baths.
I also open up the front, and rear oil passages.

Now I did mine for a road racing engine that's going to take a pounding for a period of time. For doing all this work for drag racing or street is debatable.

Ron


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'82 Trans Am
'81 Camaro Z-28
'94 Vette LT1 Coupe
'00 Impala LS

 

I believe you're looking for this...



GLYPTAL RED BRUSH ON QUART
Item-no 46001 ZP $25
GLYPTAL RED 12.75 OZ AEROSOL
Item-no 46000 Z $25

Recommended by many high performance engine rebuilding books, Glyptal seals the tiny pores left in metal after bead blasting and leaves the engine block interiors smooth. Helps keep the oil clean and flowing freely. Acid and oil resistant. Used on generator and alternator armatures, Glyptal has great electrical insulating properties, too!

Availabe from www.eastwoodcompany.com

------------------[*]my Formula Homepage [*]Collision P/Ns & Diagrams

"I don't know the key to success, but the key to failure is to try to please everyone."

 

I've used the Glyptal enamel and the POR Engine paint for lifter valleys.Both work well.I usually epoxy in a screen kit as well,to catch broken valvetrain chunks.
Moroso sells kits for the stainless steel screens,
-Rich-

 

Thanks guys! That is exactly what I was looking for. I think I'll go ahead and try it out. The screen kit sounds like cheap insurance. The description of the kit says it blocks the oil return holes above the cam. Is this kit for drag race only, or will the cam get sufficient oil even if the holes are blocked? Thanks.

 

That's the easiest and safest way. All I did was open up the return holes on the ends, and smoothed out the valleys that go to them.

That's all you need to do. IMHO, using paint IN an engine is just not ap-PEAL-ing to me. Notice the PUN!!!!!!

Your just asking for trouble. Eventually, it's gonna flake off. Especially if the engine gets a little too warm. Then the pick-up is gonna be loaded with it.


I'm sure Pro-Racers use it, but that's just it. They're Pros. They know what they're doing, and tear down an engine after every, or every other race.

AJ

 

Glyptal, or any other high-quality brand of electric motor varnish, is very good about staying put. Aditionally, the fact that it's bathed in oil rather than water almost guarantees no problems, because the "underlying" cause (excuse that pun too!) of flaking paint is rust.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Cool; I had seen that Glyptal paint a while ago... I was wondering if anyone actually used it!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

Are you calling me a liar!!!??????? About time one of you caught me!!!

Yea, but you can't deny doing the smoothing with a grinder wouldn't have the same effects. With a lot less risk.

I guess it's MOPP. I hate painting. Well I really hate masking more than painting. Kinda like I'm not afraid to fly; I'm afraid to crash and die

AJ

 

also, you would have to put many thick layers, to get the efficiency of die grinding. My blocks galley is as smoooooth as silk.
Though, I painted the block school bus Yellow

Ron



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'82 Trans Am
'81 Camaro Z-28
'94 Vette LT1 Coupe
'00 Impala LS

 

I've built a few engines and always used rust o lium and never had a problem I've also painted the heads ,timeing bay and crank area. When you pull the intake after many miles there is no sludge,debris,or oil in the gallery in fact it's just about dry, the oil seems to rush back to the pan, nice trick

 

I did mine right after coming out of the shot blast cabinet at the machine shop and I baked it for the required time and temp. Of course it was clean as a whistle before I painted it and I had smoothed out the sharp casting and radiused all drain holes. Long process but it’s a simple piece of mind.

 

21 year thread bump might be a new record.

 

Yeah it may be lol, I’ve been doing that a lot lately. Finally got a chance to work on my project. Cheer’s

 

Glyptal?

Nice job whatever it is.

 

Yes

 

Holy thread necro batman!!! This one was old enough to vote, and was only acoupla months away from being able to DRINK when it got awakened from the dead!!!!

Glyptal used to be the name of the product line of GE's electric motor varnishes and similar products. When I worked at a distributor of motor & xfmr rewinding supplies in the mid 70s, we had a WHOLE SHELF of all sorts of different products named that. Most of what we carried was in 55 gallon drums because we dealt with industrial users not retail consumers.

GE spun the whole product line off in the 80s. Today it's the name of A WHOLE COMPANY. www.glyptal.com/glyptal_products.html It is NOT a "product"; it's more like, say, Permatex. To actually specify a PRODUCT, you need both the BRAND NAME (Glyptal) and the part number or product name.

That said, the most commonly used Glyptal product was always that iron-oxide color you see inside electric motors alot. It was just an alkyd enamel paint, that came in spray cans too, although we didn't sell many of those to anybody except people who had just read Vizard's "How To Hot-Rod Small Block Chevys" the day before; we could spot em instantly, as in, anybody without an account that walked up to our will-call counter and asked for acoupla cans of "Glyptal". We would hand em cans of red 1201A like in Tom's photo since that was also what was in the pic in HTHRSBC, and charge em full list price, and they'd walk out looking like they thought they'd just made the score of a lifetime. But Glyptal, and many other mfrs, have other products that work just as well, some far better, for that matter. There are epoxy and urethane varnishes for example that run circles around that other stuff. The iron-oxide enamel is OK for the purpose at hand though, entirely adequate, but by no means "state of the art" or "the best" or any of that.

Frankly, the old Vizard book aside, regular engine enamel works just fine for that use, as well. Not sure why people think otherwise but that's the thing about humans: as long as I've been on this planet it still baffles me how anything can be as illogical and information-resistant and emotionally distracted as those creatures, and still survive. They'd be funny if it wasn't so sad how much trouble they cause themselves that way. No need to get all wrapped up in "Glyptal".

 

You can use whatever you’d like, have you ever even done any of the processes to an engine?

 

More important than using Glyptal (I use it a TON)...






















Is proper cleaning and surface-prep.
Roughen-up the surfaces, and CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN!!!

You DO NOT want this stuff flaking-off!

 

Excellent use of the stuff.

 

Ya know, the stuff may make no difference at all but, it makes the engine look like a million bucks. I mean DAMN!!

 

You funny lol

 

The application of the Glyptal ALONE...
Does NOT make much of a difference.
It does without a doubt improve Oil Return.

However to REALLY Benefit from use of Glyptal... There is MORE to it!
People not knowing what else is needed... creates the same Opinions as your own...
Stating that it is ineffective.

This is why you will ONLY see some of the absolute BEST Engine Designers/ Builders use the stuff (like David Vizard).


There is a lot more going on here, than people realize.
Ill give you guys a huge HINT...
A big part of this is Crank Case Pressure.

Have fun!

 

Your the exact reason forums become useless because of opinionated *******s such as yourself.

 

That's fair, but some of these guys 2 cents are worth $37.50. It's just another data point to consider when doing your own unique build. Don't get too hung up over it.

Side note: Didn't mean to edit your post. It was a fat finger moment. I didn't change anything.

 

I build with a pro machine shop and we are a trusted and vetted group also I work on turbine multi engine helicopters so I know quality probably better than most backyard mechanics ever will.

 

I don't think this is about quality control, rather, more about an application and its functional intent. Many folks on this thread are far from backyard mechanics, and are just giving you their opinion on this particular topics. Especially since they have first hand experience with it. Nothing more really. Not sure I get the beef?

 

LOL!

Who removed/ how were... literally 4 or 5 Images removed from the last Post I made (Post #20) in this Thread?


Is there some new retroactive File Size Limit...
That would allow for myself to post 10 or 11 Images...
But then have half of the Images disappear into the endless-Void that is the "Internet"?

 

I see 10 images in post #20.

 

crank case pressure can be reduced by gapless pistons rings.

 

LOL!

Some how, all 10 Images are now back...
Only 6 were there yesterday!

I have NO idea what's going on.

 

Yes... but not in the way which you are thinking.

Generally the use of some Piston-Ring Designs, like that of the Total Seal "Gapless" Top Ring or Second Ring Designs (which in certain situations, I very much like)...
Are going to allow for some increased Cylinder sealing.

Increased Cylinder sealing can most often be equated to:
-Slight compression increase.
-Reduced "Blow-By".
-Higher Intake Manifold Vacuum levels.

To benefit from this and see a reduction in Crankcase Pressure...
Positive Crankcase Ventilation must be leveraged.

Meaning if each Cylinder Head/ Valve-Cover uses Open Air Breathers...
Use of "Gapless" Piston-Rings, will not change, nor reduce Crankcase Pressure.

One of the results of using the "Gapless" Piston-Rings, would be higher Intake Manifold Vacuum levels.
We can use the higher Intake Manifold Vacuum with a PCV System (or a Vacuum Pump)...
This together could/ would then reduce Crankcase Pressure.