Look over this and give me suggestions for alternatives, and see if I am missing anything. I am a newbe at this domestic V8 stuff, lol.

-350 Chevy small block Gen I motor from salvage yard.

-Federal Mogul Engine Rebuild, Hypereutectic Flat, 4.030 in. Bore, .020 in. Rod, .020 in. Main, Chevy 350, includes ALL gaskets

-ARP engine bolt kit (hex head)

-Edlebrock performer plus cam & lifter kit (EDL-2102) (idle-5500)

-Accel Replacement performance distribuitor

-plugs and wires

-Cloyes Double roller timing chain and gears

-Proform chevy small block engine dress-up kit (pro-141-360)

-Summit performance headers (full leingth)

-Holly intake manifold (idle-6000)

-Holly 600cfm 4bbl carb

-Machine shop work required for rebuild. (No performance work)

I am not wanting to make a whole lot of power, just a fresh motor. I am hoping this set-up will put me into the 8's in the 1/8 and I guess I will be happy with that. I want to avoid Fordged piston chatter, and I don't plan on any forced introduction of anykind in the future (nitrous, turbo, supercharger).

How much power do you think I'll make with this set-up?

What am I missing, or what are some better parts for about the same price?

Any help is appriciated.

 

You're going to come up way short on power to run 8's in the 8th.

that's about a 12.5 et in the 1/4 mile requireing about 400-425 gross Bhp.

You make no mention of cylinder heads so assuming stock heads your power will be 290-315 gross BHP with the parts you selected.

The cam is way too small. Will need high flow aftermarket heads or fully ported (selected factory heads that have some potential) Most "junk yard 350s" come with junkheads as far as making power is concerned.

A 750cfm carb is a better match to what you're trying to achieve. A dual plane "hi rise" intake is just right for you

You'll want a hydralic or hyd roller cam with a duration around 230-240@.050 or a mechanical cam duration of 244 to 250 @.050"
and a valve lift of .500" to .550"

Cylinder heads will have to flow 230+cfm. Stock 350 heads flow about 190-195cfm.

A properly built 400-425hp 350 will want a 3.73 or 4.10 rear gear ratio and a 3000+ rpm high stall converter to run 8"'s in the 8th.

What are the head casting numbers on the heads on the 350?

To illustrate the type of motor you want to build to run 8's in the 8th look at Edelbrocks "Performer RPM" total power package or the RPM or ETEC crate motor.

Ther are many simular alternatives to choose from but this is the class of motor you'll need.
www.edelbrock.com

Here in this mag article

is another example of a budget built hi perf 350 motor that has the power you're looking for.

 

hmm...400-425Bhp? i don't think my 305 made that much and it ran 8.2's in the 1/8th. go to the "HOW?" link in my sig on my combo, it shares EVERY thing i did. take this same stuff and put it to a 350 and you should have very simliar results, i would think a few tenths decrease actually.

 

As impressive as your 305 project was. it was not typical.
the car was well prepared (chassis)and a lot lighter than a stock full dressed third gen F body. (real street trim)
I think the heads were a little warmed over as well.
The race converter ("2400stall") that actually stalled under launch at around 4000rpm makes a big difference.

I got a 8.32sec et 8th mile out of my old vortec 350 with an honest 360-370 crank hp and 3500stall, slicks and 4.10's same cam as yours. 3550lbs but we're both a littlle more saveroury than most here.

the motor I'm suggesting is the same other than the better cam.

I'm not taking anythng away from your 305 project ( actually very impressive) but he's probabily looking to get a "stock weight" car with minimal chassis preperation to run close to a 8.0 et. I think I'm not far off what it will take realisticly.

 

make up your mind


edelbrocks flat tappet cams aren't known around here for being great modern cams, maybe do a search on those and see what you find here... better ones out there...

obviously don't buy the rebuild kit until after the machine work is done... ie, machinist may not use that overbore, etc....

definately define which heads you'll use.

maybe rethink the intake. Key words to watch out for: anything, intake, heads, cam, whatever, if the advertised powerband shows it starts at "idle", that is sometimes an indication that it's no more high perf then stock. eg, edelbrock performer intake manifold, compared to RPM.... probably goes for others as well. hence i'd rethink that cam choice, it's pretty mild. A non performance rebuild, ie, a 'stock' rebuild, will get you, (get ready to be shocked here)------------------ 'stock' power. ie, 250HP or so.


you probably want to bring in the block before you go buying parts, or making choices.... if that block needs extensive work, or is scrapped, or has a toast crank, you'll be rethinking your plans.... best not to have stockpiled parts then...

 

i swear to you, the heads were STOCK, lol! all i did was take them off the original lg4, took them to the machine shop, had him look them over, fresh valve job and seals, new valves/springs, but all back to stock specs...

wouldn't it be better to build a motor that is reliable and then spend your big money else where to make it go down the track as quickly as possible?

i also read this guys other threads, he seems to be REALLY weight conscious (sp)

can you define "real street trim" for me? it had no A/C or powersteering, i did away with all emissions...but the car has everything else in it...or atleast i think it does

 

"STOCK" You and I both know you can do a lot with a competition valve job and a few othe tricks on a 'stock head" A buddy here did up a set of 'stock 305 heads" for another bud. Appeared absolutely production line stock. but flowed 220cfm on the bench .. LOL near what I get out of my fully ported 305 heads. around 240.

A real unmassaged production 416 head flows about 185cfm...

Your Camaro is probabily real close to 3000 lbs with driver.
most people like to drive a street driven car with power steering. Most states and provinces frown on running no emissions equip at all, let alone an exhaust system LOL...

We're talking stock weight daily driver with more than 1 seat LOL street legal with cats and the like.

reliability will be the same all said and done.

 

err...car weighs 3230 with me in it...and i had a stock style 1 angle valve job done to the heads...at least, that's what i think i had...i may need to ask John some questions! my machinist and i are pretty tight, he may have done me a favor!

his favor to me on the next motor is to allow me to do all my own machine work with him watching over my shoulders...those 113 aluminum heads are recieving a killer p/p job!

also, my car has full interior...even a bass boom tube...

 

LOL "Can fool an old fooler"....... Have a great Christmas....

Let me know how you make out with your current build.
Sounds interesting.
I've been searching for a set of those corvette L-98 heads to mess with. I know they have a lot of potential with the right work.

 

Merry Christmas my friend! i'll keep ya updated...in the mean time, check out what my Parents gave me...a new website for my business...if i ever get if off the ground!

www.walterracecraft.com

 

THATS why that little "305" pulled so hard. You just pointed your boom tube backwards and cranked the tunes!! Had to be good for another tenth!! Happy holidays guys. Sweet website!

 

I already have ditched A/C and the whole emissions system (excluding Cat convertors), P/S will go soon if I find a good manuel rack to put in it. I am looking at some 7lbs ea Crager wheels, but not sure if I want to fork out $500 in the middle while I am in the middle of trying to get the body done. I have 2 M/T street drag radials in 26x12.5 left over from my RX-7. THat will go on 2 of the wheels that are on my car now. (old ***, heavy *** Weld racing wheels w/ way to much backspacing.)

I will be picking up a OE non vented style liftoff fiberglass hood.

I need to go to the co-op to see what I am at now.

I have a coupe (non-T-top) (incresed chassis ridgity), manuel windows, manuel door locks, cloth interior.

I may be swaping in a manuel latter, but the auto will be more consistant at the drag strip.

 

have you done sub-frame connectors yet? that should be your next thing, before you worry about more motor stuff. gotta get the rest of the car ready to run the numbers before you can put that motor in the car.

what does it have for rear gears? does it already have a posi?

are you gonna try to do this with a full interior?
if you do, i would suggest getting some new carpet. ACC makes a really nice carpet that weighs a solid 50lbs. less than the stock one. the stock one has a rubber backing to it that the ACC piece is lacking.

i would not get a liftoff hood if i were you. it'll be cool for about 10mins, till you try to lift it off by yourself. no, it doesn't weight that much, but it's big and akward. Champion Fiberglass Products makes a really nice 3" cowl hood and i want to say it's only like $300. www.championfiberglassproducts.com weighs right around 35-40lbs. worth the extra 10-15 lbs. for ease of one person hood opening.

heavy *** weld racing wheels? what wheels are they? Weld advertises as the lightest wheels available on the market....that's what they advertise as anyway....wanna go really lightweight on the wheels then go with Bogart.

 

i know your looking to save weight, and i was cruising through the classifieds section and thought about you. these aluminum drums for the rear are an excellent weight to save rotational weight. the guy is asking very reasonablly too. don't know if you have drums or discs in the rear, but here ya go...

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=338093