Hi, this is what I have for heads:

L98 083 casting heads
-rocker bosses machined down
-guideplates
-screw in studs

Now, the heads are already assembled and on the motor. Im using the stock rockers which are self aligning I believe (88 350TPI) and stock pushrods. The heads have Viton intake seals and umbrella exhaust seals.

The camshaft is a ZZ4 Cam. People have told me the guide bosses needed to be machined down. I am able to turn the motor over with the rockers on and the motor does not bind by hitting the boss (as far as I can tell) and im using stock retainers.

So my questions are:

-Will self aligning rockers work with guideplates?

-Do I need hardened pushrods, or will stock work?

-Has anyone else been able to run the ZZ4 cam on stock height valve guide bosses with regular retainers?

 

You're headed for problems.

Pick guideplates or self-aligning rockers. They don't mix. If you go with the guideplates, get hardened pushrods.

Just because you can turn the engine over without anything hitting doesn't mean much. The lifters aren't pumped up, so they're giving when you turn over the engine. The right time to determine whether you've got enough retainer to guide/seal clearance is before the valve springs go on. The typical advice is to have at least .060" more travel than lift at the valve. Stock parts rarely have enough for more than .480" with that safety clearance.

Take it apart and do things right while you've still got some useable parts left.

 

A-hah! I knew someone out there could help me out.

The motor is just a long block sitting right now, no intake on it. I figured the rockers wouldnt work, as they dont sit right when mocked up. Ill have to buy some new ones, and some new pushrods too I guess.

The valve guide to retainer clearance was checked by my dads buddy. He used a very thin valve spring and did whatever and said it should be fine as long as I dont get wild on it.

This has been my main concern all along though, that it would hit the retainers.

 

Take the springs off and put the retainers/keepers back on (with the seals installed). Measure the travel from the valve seated to the retainer contacting the top of the guide. You'll need that to be at least .570" on the exhaust and .534" on the intakes. Check every one, as manufacturing tolerances can vary enough to cause problems if you only check a couple.

Why would you put together an engine with a ZZ4 cam if you can't get wild on it?

 

I dont really know, its more of just him telling me that because im a kid and hes an adult and blah blah lol.

Anyways, whats the strategy to popping the springs off and then getting them back on, while the head is on the block? rotate it upside down? lol.

Thanks for all the help thus far, by the way. You really know your stuff.

 

My preferred method is to apply air pressure through the spark plug hole and use a lever spring compressor to get the keepers off. Of course the rocker arms have to be off to do this, and you do one cylinder at a time. After you have the springs off, put the retainer/keepers back on both valves, let the air pressure off, and you can do the travel checks. Put the pressure back on, remove retainers, put springs back on, compress, install retainers, move on to next cylinder.

Some people like to stuff rope through the spark plug hole to fill up the cylinder and do the same thing (I believe they turn the engine over to jam the rope up against the valves). Probably works, a good alternative if you don't have an air compressor, I suppose.

 

if you already have the self aligning rockers (which are usually more expensive then non), might just want to remove the guide plates, and stick with stock pushrods. Less things to buy, err, 0 things to buy.

 

Except that they're stock stamped steel. Might not have long enough slots to handle the lift. Good opportunity (excuse) to get something better.

 

Exactly. When kenny took the heads he drilled out the slots for clearance for extra lift. So I have to run guide plates.

Ill check the clearance today after work and report back.

 

I was referring to the rocker slot. Stockers can hit the stud with bigger lift cams.

You usually don't have to open up the pushrod holes unless you go with higher ratio rockers. But, '88 should be opened up, anyway. Water under the bridge, you'll either need the guideplates or self-aligning - but again, not both.

 

Right I understood your point about the slot in the rocker. I was just saying why Im going to run plates.

Anyways, I took the micrometer out there and checked the retainer to the valve guide boss (With seals on) and both intake & exhaust were all at about .555" clearance. The intake is good, but the exhaust is .015" under safety clearance, I'm going to run them though.

EDIT: Kenny also said he has always ran stocker pushrods with guideplates with no problems, whats the deal?

 

The guideplate will be harder than the pushrod and the pushrod will lose that battle. Metal shavings, bent and broken pushrods can results... not always but why take the chance? Run hardened pushrods and avoid learning the hard way.

I prefer guideplates over self-aligners myself.

If you still have .010" room to spare at max lift with the seals in place, then you're fine. Worst case you bang the top of the seal. The good viton seals are around .080" so there is some cushion, though avoid hitting the seals. I wasn't saying it's okay to hit them.

If you run a manual transmission you might want to leave yourself more clearance room to play. People tend to have a lot of over-rev accidents with manuals.

 

The exhaust is the closest with .045" clearance. I definately wont be doing 1.6 rocker though. Im about to order some new pushrods... they are 7.195", correct?

 

I would never assume a pushrod length. It's always the last peice you should buy for an engine because you don't know what the right length will be until you have it all assembled.
Do some searching on finding pushrod length so you know exactly what you want.
I use two kinds of pushrod length checkers, plus do a swipe test with a known length to be sure.