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blue smoke when warm and using throttle

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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 01:49 PM
  #1  
roughskinjrz's Avatar
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From: Miramichi, NB
Car: 86 Monte Carlo
Engine: Blown 489
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9" 370s
blue smoke when warm and using throttle

ok so my problem whenever i fire up the vehicle no smoke what soever, but after about 15-20 minutes blue smoke will start coming out of the exhaust, and when i hold it to the floor a big cloud of blue smoke will come out, not the whole time i hodl it to the floor just at first, but then when i slow down at idle it does it again. also when i went to set the falve lash again i noticed no oil coming out of the holes onto the roller rockers, but oil pressure is find, and motor responds VERY well, lots of power. well i did use the search button, but noone seeems to know for sure, i've read it could be :

1) oil galleys clogged
2) intake manifold gaskets
3) valve seals on heads
4) rings

im hoping its not 4, but from what i read its only the rings if your lose power in your motor.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 02:17 PM
  #2  
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Doubt it's 1.
Vacuum test will check #2.
Doubt it's 3.
Wet/dry compression test will check #4.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 02:56 PM
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Car: Yes
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Did you put sealer on the rocker stud threads where they go into the head?
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 05:19 PM
  #4  
roughskinjrz's Avatar
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From: Miramichi, NB
Car: 86 Monte Carlo
Engine: Blown 489
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9" 370s
sealer on the rocker studs, no i didnt. and this is the same block i used for the last year, and it never did this before, only since i put on the new heads/intake/waterpump/pulleys
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 05:26 PM
  #5  
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
You need sealer on the studs, esp if they go all the way through to the intake port.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 05:33 PM
  #6  
roughskinjrz's Avatar
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From: Miramichi, NB
Car: 86 Monte Carlo
Engine: Blown 489
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9" 370s
hey you know that could be my problem, i guess ill pull all of them and put sealer on them, what kind do you recommend
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 05:54 PM
  #7  
Stekman's Avatar
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
I used the Loctite PST (592) on my AFR's.
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 08:39 PM
  #8  
roughskinjrz's Avatar
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From: Miramichi, NB
Car: 86 Monte Carlo
Engine: Blown 489
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9" 370s
steakman, tried the loctite on the rocker studs, and check oil galleys, so far still does it after idle warms up.

dont know how to check the rings, and how do i know if its the intake, just change the gaskets?
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 08:51 PM
  #9  
Stekman's Avatar
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Originally posted by Stekman
Doubt it's 1.
Vacuum test will check #2.
Doubt it's 3.
Wet/dry compression test will check #4.
Start with 2 and 4.

Last edited by Stekman; Jan 14, 2006 at 08:55 PM.
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 09:00 PM
  #10  
roughskinjrz's Avatar
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From: Miramichi, NB
Car: 86 Monte Carlo
Engine: Blown 489
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9" 370s
ok 2 questions:

1) whats a vacuum test? and how do i do it
2) whats a wet/dry test? and how do i do it
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 09:10 PM
  #11  
Stekman's Avatar
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Buy a vacuum gauge (they're cheap and a very nice tool to have). It should have a series of adapters to use for various size lines. Find a vacuum line (I use the brake booster line as it sees full manifold vacuum) and watch the gauge. It should read steady, not bounce around, etc. Get the reading and report back. Since you say it's a warmed up issue, do this when the engine is warm.

Rent/buy a compression tester. This is another tool that looks similar to the vacuum gauage. Depending on which you get/rent, it should also have a series of adapters which thread into the spark plug hole. Find which threads into your heads. UNPLUG THE INGITION POWER SUPPLY!!. Unplug a spark plug, I usually start on #1 and work along the driver side, then go to the passenger side, doesn't really matter. Thread the compression testers adapter in and bump the starter over a few times (a starter interrupt switch is really handy here - another good tool to own). The needle should bounce up and back down on the compression cycle. Do this a few times until you get the number. Write it down. Unscrew the adapter and take an oil squirter and put a little bit of oil in the spark plug hole. It will run down the cylinder wall. Bump the starter over again a few times, let the oil seep around the rings. This temporarily seals the rings if there are any faults in how the ring seals. Run the compression test again and record the number. The before and after the oil numbers should be pretty close. Do this on all 8 holes and report back.
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 09:21 PM
  #12  
roughskinjrz's Avatar
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From: Miramichi, NB
Car: 86 Monte Carlo
Engine: Blown 489
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9" 370s
ok well it might be a while before i can find those, i dont have a vehicle to get around, and downtown only place we ahve for automotive parts is canadian tire, i will report back if i have more questions.
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 11:32 PM
  #13  
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From: Ft. Branch, In.
Car: 88 formula WS6
Engine: 305 Lo3
Transmission: 700-R4
Might want to check that PCV valve too.
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 08:58 AM
  #14  
roughskinjrz's Avatar
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Posts: 1,423
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From: Miramichi, NB
Car: 86 Monte Carlo
Engine: Blown 489
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9" 370s
pcv valve is new, but there is a slit in the hose going onto the carburetor ill check it out.
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