Anyone ever change the oil pan with the engine in on a 3rd gen v8 car?

I took my intake off today to send the defective lifters back to summit, and I NEED to change the oil pan because of various problems, but I dont really feel like yanking tranny, disconnecting harness, ps hoses, etc, etc.

If anyone has done it with the engine + tranny in, i'd love to hear how.

-- Joe

 

I didn't change the pan, but I pulled it off to fix the oil pump pick-up with the engine and tranny in the car.

 

I think the way to do it is by lifting your enging up. I think you have to remove your distributor cap, y pipe, and probably the bolts for the engine mounts but im not sure about that. I know that its not an easy job but expensive to get it done somewhere else. Theres just not enough clearence to get it done i dont think without lifting the engine up some. I hope this helps

 

Well. details details. Did you unbolt the motor mounts and lift the block up some?

I think I can probably use a jack and a 2x4 to lift the motor up while the car is on the lift.

I was thinking I can unbolt the pan, drop it a little, then unbol t the oil pump to get the whole thing out.

 

A buddy and me did it.

Yes, we took out the motor mount bolts out and then lifted the motor.
There is enough room(swear when you feel the need), just barely.

I think the other hard thing was putting the gasket back on without it folding or biting the lip.

I had to change mine b/c I was lifting my car and the jack slipped off of the motor cradle and pushed the steering arm up into the pan so that the crank would not turn over
(I think I am still trying to kick my own ***

 

As stated above, removed distributor cap & y-pipe, pulled mount bolts. I put a block of wood under the damper and jacked it up from there to get clearance to pull the pan.

I've got a one-piece pan gasket, that makes it a lot easier.

 

Jacked it up by the balancer huh? That freaks me out. Hrmm.. Think thats safe?

-- Joe

 

I had my doubts. But, it worked with no problems.

My concern was the engine turning and the block slipping out. Not even a hint of it. I suppose you could shape the block so that it fits the curve of the damper. I did, however, set the engine back down on the mounts while doing the work with the pan out.

 

I haven't done it, but if I were to, I would try to fabricate some kind of support for the belhousing.

 

I've done it when it was 35 degrees outside, raining and all I had to cover my car was some tarp. There is just barely enough room and make sure you have a good hydralic jack and regular jack stands. I did the same thing as five7kid.

 

Im just concerned with jacking the engine by the crank. WIth my luck it will ruin the front bearing, or break the crank snout off.

My cousin has this contraption used to jack engines up in FWD applications when doing tranny's. You rest it on the shock towers/radiator support. I think I'll try that.

Thanks for the replies guys. I appreciate it!

-- Joe

 

Aparently this trick only works with an automatic. You can't get the pan out with a manual bellhousing. WIth an auto, the inspection cover comes off. With the manual, its in the way.

Oh well.

-- Joe

 

Joe,

Have no fear....just patience. I had a 1 piece RMS V8 with a T-5 tranny that I changed an oil pan gasket on, with out lifting the engine one inch.
I just jacked the car up
Take all of the bolts off
remove old oil pan gasket by making a small tear in it.
Put new one one by CAREFULLY slipping it on over the pan.
You really must have patience when putting the gasket on. I think I finally got it on and a few bolts started the 5'th time.
I accomplished it from start to 100% done in 1-1.5 hrs.

 

I'm trying to change the pan + pickup. Not jus the gasket. Motors coming out.

I might change the pump while it's out too.. why not..

-- Joe

 

I'm finishing up welding sfc's, and the motor's comin out once again to fix a leaky rear main seal.

I could probably do it with the engine in, but I'd have to get so much stuff out of the way and pull the trans and lift the engine up - I may as well finish the job and keep pullin....

Gives me an excuse to go retro roller too!!

BUT - I'm getting tired of yanking this engine...I want this to be the last time - REALLY.

EDIT: But I feel your pain. I'm getting WAY to proficient at pulling engines from thirdgens...

 

Well ya know, the intakes off cuz of lifters. motor mounts unbolted. Exhaust off cuz of leaks. just need to undo power steering, few wires, etc. Question is, do I leave the tranny in and yank the radiator, or do Ileave the radiator and yank the tranny.. Im soo lazy in the winter.

-- Joe

 

I take my rad out regardless. I suppose you could leave it in though.
If I tried it, I'd ram a hole in it for sure!

BTW - I always take the trans out separate too, cause I don't have a load leveler in order to get a good enough angle to get the engine out with the trans connected.

 

Well sometimes I leave the trans in the car, but I decided to yank it tonight.

Took 2 1/2 hours from unbolting driveshaft, to engine on the stand. I'm getting old.

I opted to unbolt the ps pump and leave it in the car, rather than disconnect the hoses.

I'm tempted to check the bearings while its out..

-- Joe

 

i would have thought a cherry picker to lift the engine(rented)so you can rotate the crank to a place where the counterweights are out of the way.
sorry i didn't read this post earlier!
Eric B

 

Yeah, I've heard that will work. In my case, I'm sc**ed because of my windage tray anyways. No matter what, engine's gotta come out for a rear seal replacement. Can't think of any other way.

anesthes - Why look at the bearings? Do you think something's wrong with them?

 

Who knows.

My car used to idle at 80psi. ALl of a sudden, it idles at 40psi..

Could be the bad lifters. Could be a bad oil pump. Could be because I smashed the pan the pickup was cavitating.

Either way, I'll replace the oil pump, pickup, and inspect the bearings.

-- Joe

 

its safe ive done mine 3 times on my tpi trans am like that 1 time bad pump, i time ex girl bottomed out & smashed the sump on the pan, and the 3rd time because the cheap chrome summit oil pan wouldnt seal right lol... and 2 times on my 66 grand prix.

just take off the motor mount bolts, loosen the trans mount nut down to the bottom of the threads, remove the y pipe bolts and the starter. put a small piece of wood between your floor jack and pulley and it will lift it right up.. the first time i did mine i didnt remove the dist cap but the 2nd time i did it i cracked the cap so for safety i would take it off..

the pressure problem is probably the pump. for some reason the mid to late 80's chevy motors go thru the originals at low miles.. i did mine on my 88 motor at 48,000 my brother did his on his 89 motor at 36,000 and my buddy had a 88 formula that had a bad pump w/ low miles

 

Well this is a motor I built last january, and it has VERY low miles. like less than 5k..

I bought a new pump tonight, but lost ambition. Perhaps tomorrow I will change the pump, inspect the bearings, and toss it back in the car.

-- Joe