affordable disributor upgrade
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 118
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From: FL
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: LG4
Transmission: th-700
affordable disributor upgrade
alright, i guess the main problem ive been have is that i still have the stock distributor. im running a holly 600 with a street dominator intake. ive had problems every since i installed them. i guess it is because of the distributor. can someone please give me all the details on what i need to change. which distributor should i use, which coil, ect.
note: im on a budget, so please be easy.
note: im on a budget, so please be easy.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 627
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From: Carson City Nevada
Car: 86 coupe
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27 posi
jegs part #121-8501 143.99
assuming you have an hei distributor.
msd in cap coil and module,cap and rotor.that's a pretty sweet deal!
if you still have problems a remanufactured hei distributor from advance auto is like 80 bucks.
this is what i am using,and i am very pleased with it!
for a few bucks more you can get the street pro billet #121-8361,even nicer!but you have to buy an msd box to go with it.
Eric B
assuming you have an hei distributor.
msd in cap coil and module,cap and rotor.that's a pretty sweet deal!
if you still have problems a remanufactured hei distributor from advance auto is like 80 bucks.
this is what i am using,and i am very pleased with it!
for a few bucks more you can get the street pro billet #121-8361,even nicer!but you have to buy an msd box to go with it.
Eric B
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 19
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Advance/Autozone also sell the brown cap Accel dizzy brand new with extra springs/weights, cap, rotor in box for $125 (no coil though).
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Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
or go to an auto wreckers and pick up a normal HEI dist from any GM V-8 between mid '70s and late '80s say. Upgrade the vacuum advance can if you want. $40-50 total.
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Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 118
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From: FL
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: LG4
Transmission: th-700
yes yall are correct it is the stock HEI system, and i need one equipt with a vacuum advnce. So is the eccel from advance auto worth buying?
how difficult is it to set it up after i buy it?
how difficult is it to set it up after i buy it?
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Should be worth it, roughly $90 or so?
Pretty easy, remember where the old dist was (rotor pointing), drop in the new one the same way. Leave vac advance disconnected, start it up, let it warm up, set curb idle. Then hook up vac advance. Maybe play with spring weights, and use the MSD adjustable vacuum timing can, for a more optimum setup. Read damons article "HEI timing" on the main page of TGO for the full read up.
Pretty easy, remember where the old dist was (rotor pointing), drop in the new one the same way. Leave vac advance disconnected, start it up, let it warm up, set curb idle. Then hook up vac advance. Maybe play with spring weights, and use the MSD adjustable vacuum timing can, for a more optimum setup. Read damons article "HEI timing" on the main page of TGO for the full read up.
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,739
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From: Beaufort South Carolina
Car: 1983 Camaro Z/28
Engine: LU5 305 CFI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: J65/G80/G92-3.23
When you say you've had problems from the start.What is your car doing or not doing?Maybe the carb or timing needs adjustment.You could have a bad plug wire or fouled plug.
Joined: Sep 2005
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
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Forget the "timing", and leave the carb alone until you install a distributor with all the right features.
Your engine requires the ignition timing to change considerably under various conditions. A typical timing curve for a performance-oriented engine is that the engine should get about 12-15 degrees advance at idle; then as RPMs increase, the timing should start to advance more, and should reach about 34 degrees at 2800-3000 RPM; and that when cruising down the road at high vacuum (light load) and high RPM, there should be an additional 12 degrees or more of advance applied.
In a computer-controlled system, the computer takes care of all this. It "offsets" the timing by some amount, programmed into the "chip", from wherever you set the "timing" by twiddling the distributor housing. If you have the computer-controlled distributor with no computer controlling it, then your actual timing is always WAY WAY WAY not advanced enough, no matter where you "set" the "timing".
I'd recommend a new distributor with the correct features you need. The cheap Accel one is about perfect. By the time you buy a junk HEI at the junkyard and get it to work reliably and right, you'll have almost that much money in it; and you'll have an old worn-out junker, instead of a new one.
Your engine requires the ignition timing to change considerably under various conditions. A typical timing curve for a performance-oriented engine is that the engine should get about 12-15 degrees advance at idle; then as RPMs increase, the timing should start to advance more, and should reach about 34 degrees at 2800-3000 RPM; and that when cruising down the road at high vacuum (light load) and high RPM, there should be an additional 12 degrees or more of advance applied.
In a computer-controlled system, the computer takes care of all this. It "offsets" the timing by some amount, programmed into the "chip", from wherever you set the "timing" by twiddling the distributor housing. If you have the computer-controlled distributor with no computer controlling it, then your actual timing is always WAY WAY WAY not advanced enough, no matter where you "set" the "timing".
I'd recommend a new distributor with the correct features you need. The cheap Accel one is about perfect. By the time you buy a junk HEI at the junkyard and get it to work reliably and right, you'll have almost that much money in it; and you'll have an old worn-out junker, instead of a new one.
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