Ok guys, here's my delima.

My motor is 2500 miles old. but the rings i had never seated, and ended up digging into the cylender walls, plus gas washing added to the destruction. I have taken it back out and upon deconstruction, bores needed to be bored and honed all over again(this wasn't surprizing), heads looked a bit coated(she was running fat).

Now the heads are old double hump heads. when i aquired them they were virign casting heads. They had been given new valve guides, seats, and a complete check on them. And while i awaited my original motor build they sat and cought a small amount of surface rust. I cleaned them up my best and installed them on this motor. There was never one bit of smoke coming from my tail pipes, never, just blowby from hell coming from the valve covers.

I am getting new springs and valves installed. Springs are stock sized and nothing irregular there. Stainless steel vales from elgin industries are valves i recently aquired from a buddy very cheaply. sized at the same size the current vales are, 2.02/1.6. Will i run into any trouble just installing these valves? They are right from the box, no special angle valve job, and heads are stock valve job as well. Will/should there be any problems here?

Should there be anything special done to these heads at this point?

Reason i ask is simply because money was counting on there not having to be as much machine work done as there is showing to be. Heads needing to be done is just way on the borderline of overbudget/delay of project.

 

If you're putting a new set of valves in a head you need to have a valve job, or at least lap them in so they seal properly. You'll also want to check all the valve heights and shim them accordingly to get your desired seat pressure.

 

Also,you never plainly stated,are these valves new?
If they are,cool.If not,NEVER trust a used set of valves in a performance engine unless you know what EVERY second of their use has been.
I bought used heads for my 421,complete.Had my machine shop work them,and bolted them on.
Approx. 45 seconds after firing my brand new,don't ever tell the wife what this costed big inch SB,a valve popped it's head,crunched that piston,bending that con. rod,sending shrapnel to 4 other cylinders,mashing ring lands,embedding into pistons,bending 2 more rods,and splitting 1 cylinder.
It also destroyed the chamber of the cylinder where hell broke loose at in the first place.

Freak deal that happens one in a million times?Maybe.But it's a lesson I've never forgotten.Saving $350 on valves costed about $5000 in my case.You do the math

 

sorry for the delayed reply.

The valves are brand spanking new. In the box, in the plastic rappers.

MY real concern is what must be done to these heads so that i can reuse them? i am sure the valves sealed when removed, so i am sure they will seal now.

The valve angles are exact, so my question is why must i still get a valve job done? Its not like they create a wear pattern.

 

Like Irockz was trying to state... "better safe than sorry". A valve job is not that much extra... starting to see how you got into the "my brand new motor needs a rebuild already" situation :-P

j/k man, but really, if you get new valves, the least you can do is get a valve job for them, have the machine shop once-over the valve seats, and make sure they guides are still good.

 

do you seriously have any idea how much torque plate honing, and all there is in between costs? This machine shop is bolting a water pump/tranny/oil pan, the most possible to duplicate block flex. ITs expensive.

The heads are going to be replaced very soon by a set of AFR's. When i say soon i mean like 6 months...

 

Uh,yeah.I've built in the neighborhood of 175 engines,the majority being smallblock Chevys.I'm a believer in torque plates,but bolting up evertrhing is getting a bit carried away.I can't possibly see how a water pump is distorting the cylinders any,let alone the oil pan.

It doesn't sound to me like your making NEAR enough power to justify that kind of pains.If your gonna swap heads in 6 months,why not just set the shortblock in the corner til then and do it all right at one time.If your not doing it right,it's not worth doing at all,period.

 

The main thing you need to do is to lap the valves.

You can do that yourself. Get some "Clover" lapping compound; DO NOT use the Permatex stuff you see everywhere, it is like gravel. The Clover is much finer. I think you can still get it at NAPA; if not, try McMaster-Carr, or Enco. Comes in a can, not a tube. You'll need a valve lapping tool too, which is just a plastic thing with suction cups on it; anywhere that sells Lisle tools will probably have it. Less than $12 worth of stuff.

Lap each valve to its seat, and look for a narrow line where the grit has ground the valve and the seat. It should of course be in the center of the correct "facet" of the valve job in both the seat and on the new valve. You want to see a fine line of grinding all the way around both the valve and the seat, of even width all around. Lap until you see it start to widen, aim for about a .050" - 1/16" wide line on both the valve and the seat. If it turns out like that, then you don't need a valve job.

As far as any other work, it's anybody's guess; whether you actually need guides, or you have studs about to pull out, or whatever. And of course, without measuring tools, you have no way of knowing whether you have the springs set up at the right height; you ould end up with either valve float if they're too tall, or wiped-out cam lobes if they're set too short (too much shim).

But as far as just replacing the valves, that part is not too tough. If you KNOW FOR SURE that the spring installed height was correct before, you could compare the height of the keeper groove on your new valves to the old ones, and get an idea of whether the installed height will come out the same or not.

 

nvm guys, i scored a set of sportsman's new in box for $400 locally, gonna ditch these ported 083's.