ok so i come home last night, car ran normal go to start it up this morning and it just cranked, i replaced the battery cuz it was over 4 years old and figured it was dieing anyway, no start, fuel pump checks good, there is spark at the distributor(on the center wire from the coil), but i didnt get anything when i probbed the coil and cranked the motor. i duno what else to check............HELP its so nice and i just started spring break!

 

<CENTER><B>
Pour an ounce of fuel into the throttle and try again.
Did it run a little?
</FONT>
</B><FONT COLOR=F3399><H5>
“If people drove any slower they’d be going backwards”</FONT>
<FONT COLOR=FF66FF>NINÅ</H5></FONT>
<P>
<TABLE BORDER=9 CELLPADDING=8>
<TD BGCOLOR=black>
<B><H3><CENTER>REFUSE
TO
LOSE<p></TABLE></CENTER>

 

Did you check the resistance on the pick up coil?

 

carcked distributor cap?twisted rotor contact?timing jumped?
just a few thoughts.
Eric B

 

MAKE SURE THE COMPUTER IS FUNCTIONING CORRECTLY. My friends injectors weren't squirting cause the computer ground was no good. And we had fuel at the fuel rail, so just my two cents

 

i installed the stock 305 injectors, took out the plugs and dried them all off, tried starting again and no good, pulled the plugs again and they were FULL of gas again

 

also the tac is pinned,stuck at 7k, but i think that happened when i tried to start it and forgot to reconect the wire that goes from the coil to the dist.

 

ok i think i do hear something clicking from the distributor area, or maybe the coil, i pulled the 2 plugs on the coil and with the car in run, only one had power, but when plugged in all 4 have power

 

since the site went down i installed a new ignition module and a new fuel pressure regulator. the car still wont start but it cranks/turns over and the plugs keep getting fille dwith gas cuz it wont start. i dont know anything about timing and i think that may be my issue, can anyone help?

 

Any codes?

For grins, unplug the MAF and then try and see if it will start. Timing doesn't just change unless you were screwing with it or something 'bad' happened.

 

nope no codes at the moment, it had a 36 and intermitant 34 before this happened but they were cleared when i disconected the battery.

the car started for like 15 seconds today when i unplugged the ESC and it was puffin out clouds of smoke from all the unburnt gas that had accumulated from trying to start it. i plugged the ESC back in and no start, unplugged it again and no start still.....

 

What happens when you unplug the MAF and try?

 

still nothing....

 

Do you know how to get the number one cylinder to top dead center, and then check the distributer rotor to see if it's pointed at the number one wire?

 

i know u gotta pull the valve cover and see if the exhaust and the intake valve are both closed, correct?? but why the hell did it start ONCE when the ESC was unplugged, i dont understand this thing lol

 

Eh, I suppose that might work. The best way is to have a buddy crank the motor and either hook up a compression tester to that spark plug hole, or just hold your finger over the hole. When it hits it's compression stroke, the guage will jump the most on the tester, or if you're using the finger method (which is quite reliable), you'll get a good blast of air coming out.

You may want to crank it over a few times with either method, because it will produce some compression on your exhaust stroke too, and if you've never done this, you may not be able to tell until you feel (or see on the gauge) both the exhaust and the compression stroke. After you feel (see) both, you'll know which one is compression, as it produces the most pressure.

As soon as you get that blast of air, stop cranking the motor. Put the plug back in and hook your wire back up to it. Then go pull your distributer cover and make sure your rotor is pointed at the number one cylinder. If you don't know which one is number one, let me know in your reply and I'll pull up a diagram of the SBC firing order. You can find it with a search, but that can be tricky.

Also, I wouldn't worry about the ESC thing until make sure your timing is dead on. Off the top of my head, I know there is some electronic timing advance on TPI motors (something like 12 degrees, I think), and that may explain why it fired that one time when the ESC was unplugged...but then again, you're supposed to set your base timing with the ESC unplugged on those motors, so I'm not sure. Either way, I'd work on your base timing for now.

 

ok cool ill give it a shot on my next day off, i have one of those shop manuals and it has the firing order and plug numbers and such, thanks

 

Might want to pick up an inductive timing light too. They're only about $30 or so, and you can pick up a decent amount low end torque and throttle response by giving the motor about 2 to 4 degrees of timing advance beyond TDC. Your manual will tell you how to properly set the timing and use the timing marks for reference.

 

cool where do they sell them?

 

AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Pep Boys, Napa, pretty much any autoparts store. Even Wal-Mart SuperCenters have them I think.

 

ok i had the car towed to the shop, mechanic hooked up a noid light to the injectors and they arent pulsing and are stuck open thus fouling the plugs, he thinks its a bad ECM but wants to further investigate, what you guys think?

 

Do you really believe all 8 injectors are stuck open at the same time?
Remember it takes a pulse to open the enjector and a very long one to keep it open, but that can't be happening because the mechanic has already diagnosed a "no injector pulse" with a noid light".

 

Both banks' circuits grounded out somehow??

 

he said they all stay hot and the light on the tester doesnt flash when it should when that cylinder fires

 

So you have spark.
But, you don't have an injector pulse.
They all fire at the same time (injector batch fire.)"all stay hot" means there's 12volts at one pin of each injector connector because they're all supplied 12v from the fuses; the noid light doesn't flash, or stay lit because there's no path to ground, when the other pin is grounded; pulsed by the ECM driver to ground the noid light is lit for the duration of the pulse (flash.)
Either the ECM isn't getting a reference pulse from the distributor, or it's not processing the pulse, Could be bad drivers, and or wiring.

The noid light would light continuously if the injectors were all grounded.